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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 06-23-2015, 12:14 AM
otisrush otisrush is offline
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Default 14-2 With Lead Fouling?

I hope I'm in the right place.......

I have a Model 14-2 that I believe has some lead fouling. See picture below. Is that what fouling looks like? If it is - what are the recommended ways to deal with it?

I got this from my Dad. (And he is gone - so I can't ask him.) I don't know how much he shot it as well as I don't know what he put through it. I've put probably 500 rounds of lead through it. My plan is to start reloading .38 Spcl and I'm currently planning on using copper jacketed bullets.

I'd be interested in experts' opinions re: if I've identified it correctly as well as how to get rid of it.

Thanks!

OR
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:37 AM
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Yup, you have some leading. Don't panic, it is fairly common in guns shooting factory lead bullets (148 gr. wadcutters, or 158 grain round nose. These were and are the most common type of bullets shot from a gun that was designed to be the premier target pistol of its day. Easy but somewhat labor intensive to fix. A brass bore brush and a copper ChoreBoy (bought at local hardware, Wal-Mart, grocery store or dollar store) Wrap a few strands of the choreboy around the bristles of the bore brush and using your favorite bore cleaner, have at it. You will also probably need a brass bristle bush to clean the area under the top strap and around the forcing cone. You might also look in you Dad's stuff. He may have had a Lewis Lead Remover. A cleaning kit designed to remove lead from the bore and forcing cone. Anyway, all it will take is some time and elbow grease and it will look good as new...HTH GB
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:46 AM
otisrush otisrush is offline
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Thanks GB! I greatly appreciate the info.

I'd really like to get this cleaned up and hopefully it'll continue to perform well for a long time. I love the piece. It's accurate as all get out and I love the lines/look of it.

Thanks again. I'll get crackin'!

OR

Last edited by otisrush; 06-23-2015 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:47 AM
rct269 rct269 is offline
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Go to "Notable Thread Index" in this forum. Go to "lead in barrel" thread. Follow the instructions therein. You will be a happy camper. You will have expended little time----and NO "elbow grease".

One word of caution (contained therein, but not believed by some who think miracles come in bottles and cans)-------use no solvents/removers/snake oil of ANY kind-----work with a DRY bore.

Ralph Tremaine

Apologies all around! I said go to the index in this forum-----WRONG!! It's in the early hand ejector forum.

Last edited by rct269; 06-23-2015 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:27 AM
MJFlores MJFlores is offline
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Yes, that is lead. However, that's not bad at all. It looks like a little streaking down the barrel which can happen too. When it's on the cone like that, I use a qtip soaked in Hoppes to wet it good, let it sit about 0 mins and then use a bronze bore brush...it should remove it all. Sometimes just running a few jacket bullets through will remove the last bit. I load plated bullets almost exclusively now, they're not much more expensive than lead, much cheaper than jacketed, and zero barrel leading so far. Give them a try. People are also raving about coated lead bullets too.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:28 AM
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I have a 14-3. They are great guns. No real leading issues with this one. I as mentioned on the previous post also work on removing lead dry. 1 thing that worked well for me, is use a larger caliber brush. I used a 20 gauge shotgun brush on my 625JM. (45acp) No more lead for it. The newer coated bullets are going to be my next try. I do reload. Enjoy your 14! Bob
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Old 06-24-2015, 02:33 PM
Ga Johnny Ga Johnny is offline
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I've had to cork the end of the barrel prop the gun up somewhere and fill the barrel with kroil and let it stand for a few days to remove lead before. Much easier if you have the time.
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Old 06-24-2015, 02:43 PM
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I'd like to second the Chore Boy recommendation. I have a couple of target revolvers that lead like crazy and used to spend lots of time with Hoppe's and various other solvents, pastes, brushes, etc. before someone put me on to Chore Boy. You can put a few strands on a brush, as recommended earlier, but I usually find it easier to use one of those wool mop things in the correct caliber. A few passes and you're done. I have a Lewis Lead Remover that I don't bother with any more - the Chore Boy is easier and does just as good a job. Just be sure to get genuine Chore Boy brand or an equivalent all-copper substitute. Some of the cheaper brands are copper-washed steel and might harm your barrel.

Last edited by FlyFish; 06-24-2015 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:08 PM
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You can also cut a piece of lead remover cloth and use it as a patch, or put a piece over a bore brush. Bob
SGT is right about lead remover cloth removing bluing. Keep it inside the barrel with the lead.

Last edited by bananaman; 06-25-2015 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:14 PM
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Lead remover cloth will take blueing off too. It will work, but, I only use it on stainless guns.

Chore boy works fine. I remember when all I shot was .38's, I bought a Lewis lead remover. It's a pretty awesome tool. I used it on a buddy's gun one time and he looked down the bore and said "hey! What are those swirling lines in the barrel?"

I swear, enough lead came out we could have cast a .22 bullet.
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:39 PM
captaint captaint is offline
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That is, of course, leading. But not the serious variety. Chore Boy and Kroil and you'll be good. Take a magnet when you go to buy the Chore Boy to be sure it's copper. Enjoy. I love mod 14's....
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:08 PM
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Well, you said you shot 10 boxes of lead ammo through it with no mention of cleaning. No telling how long your dad didn't clean his revolver. So yes, serious lead build up.

Solvent and brass brushes. And don't go so long without cleaning next time.
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