Hi, I'm extremely new to this. I barely understand the names and parts of guns.I've recently inherited an all black S&W revolver and I'm trying to identify it. It was my grandfather's and he was 92 years old. Before I registeted, the site said the team could help identify the year and type of gun. So that's why I joined. I'm simply trying to identify the revolver and find out anything I can about it.

Details of the revolver that I can understand are as follows: -the black barrel says Smith &Wesson on the left side.
-underneath there is a tube like object with some type of a textured screw like adjustable part which is roughly textured.
-on the right side, it says .22 long rifle CTG.
When I open the yoke it has Mod then underneath then [this is where it's muddled] it says 34-i but it looks like the 4 has been stamped over what looks like an original 5. It appears it says Mod 35-i but restamped as 34 instead,maybe by mistake?
-then below those numbers closer to the chamber on the part that fold together, there are number "51984".
-the textured adjustable part actual drops down with the yoke and spins as the chamber is turned. That textured part is at the very tip.
-on left side it has the S&W symbols in a circle, very fancy with Trade above the circle and Mark Reg.us.pat.off.
-on right side it has made in USA marcas registradas Smith and wesson Springfield Mass...and 2 screws, one under right side of chamber and one toward the handle.
-the barrel is not short like a snub.
-above the hammer there is a sight with a screw..and down the barrel to the front there is a fine like apiture that is textured as it goes up word at the end of the barrel.
-the grip is black and has a lion with a capital P in a circle..on both sides..and a screw beneath the one on the right.

-under the handle at bottom it says presentation grip by Pachmayr
-beneath that I think it says Los Angeles Calif and then 2 more words I cannot make out
-beneath that it says U.S. Pat No's 3,672,084 4,132,024 then beneath OTHER US PAT PENDING.

That is just about everything I can gather from this gun, other than I know it's old.

4" 34-1
6" 35-1

Both after 1961

Thanks sir, for your quick reply. But is there any other information about this revolver that could be useful in better identification?

Serial number on butt will narrow down the year.

Yes. Good, well lighted pictures of the left side, right side, and, the bottom of the grip frame where the serial number is.

bdGreen

The only number on the but is the number I gave above near the patent. The only other numbers found were the either 34-i or 35-i...it looks like it was a mistake and they restamped it..and the number 51984

Did you remove the rubber grips to get the number off the butt frame? You will need to do that.

__________________
Get off my lawn!

Thanks buddy...do I have to unscrew the screw on the handle to remove the pachmayr grip?

Yes, unscrew it and before removing the screw push down on the screw to pop the other side off and then tap the other side off. Never try to pry them off.

__________________
Get off my lawn!

The Pachmayr grips (handle) are not original to the gun, they are aftermarket rubber. Original would have been wood grips. Remove the grips by unscrewing the screw on the side of the grips. On the bottom of the guns metal grip frame will be a serial number for the gun. You will also see another screw in the side of the gun (side plate) that is now hidden by the grips.

It is a 22 rimfire revolver built on the small "J" frame. They were often called "kit guns", and are popular with outdoorsmen wanting a light weight carry gun for the woods. They are a quality gun, and demand very good prices with the right buyer. It can be fired by either pulling the trigger all the way back (double action), or cocking the hammer each time before firing (single action) It sounds like yours has adjustable sights.

Larry

Wow, thanks for the information man. What kind of prices would you think it'd go for? It's in pretty good shape. He bought it because it reminded him of his sidearm in WW2.Not exactly the same, but similar. Someone said that this new grip is a pretty nice grip.
I'm new to this so what exactly is the point of cocking the hammer or just firing without cocking? I must sounded pretty stupid. Also, the guy before you said to pop out the other side before removing the screw...I really don't understand what that means or how to do it without messing it up. This gun has some history to it. Pretty interesting from what I remember when I was a kid. Thanks for any more info you might provide.

Value really depends on barrel length, mechanical & finish condition, year of manufacture, among other variables. In good shape, a guesstamate would be $300, or more, with condition being a serious variable.

The grips are comfortable and hand filling, but of no real value. These rubber grips commonaly sell for $15 on e-bay. The original wood grips add far more value, as much as $100, again depending on year. By the way, that "roughly textured tube thing under the barrel" is designed to be pressed with the thumb when unlading. It extracts the shells from the cylinder.

By cocking the gun first, then pulling the trigger (single action) you get a short, light trigger pull, conductive to accuracy. By just pulling the trigger thru its full, long and heavier pull without cocking the hammer first (double action) you get faster shots - more useful in combat type shooting.

Just unscrew the single screw that goes thru the grips. The screw should easily come out, then spread the grips open from the front, and they should just come off the gun.

Post the serial number on the bottom of the guns grip frame, as well as any other numbers / marks that are present. It will help to identify the year of manufacture, factory finish, etc. The gun will shoot 22 rimfire ammo in 22 short, 22 long, or 22 long rifle flavors. 22 magnums will not fit. Post a couple pics if you can.

Larry

The .22 LR Kit Guns generally came with 2 inch, 4 inch or 6 inch barrels. They came with what are called "round" or "square" butt grip frames, and the stocks you bought for them depended on which.

Really, some photographs would be necessary to tell you much more than has been said.

I don't know if these will suffice. The number on the butt is 118974

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Please allow me to add my $0.02 worth.

For a number of us, the true value of your revolver is that it was your grandfathers.

Certainly it has a financial value but remember every time you hold it you are reconnected to him.

Don't want to be telling you what to do by any means, just wanted to share another point of view.

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I am a sheep dog!
1601 (ret)

Thanks you sir. I am pretty certain someone would have to pry it from my dead hand, if they could...I was just curious what the value would be, and maybe a little more info about the gun, history, year, and maybe some tips about maintenance, etc. Thank you so much for the sentimental statements.Your 2 cents worth equal a whole buck to me He was a first Sgt in WW2, had 2 purple hearts, three silver stars and a bronze. He carried it with him when we went squirrel and rabbit hunting when I was a kid. Now, it's mine. And I'm in love with it.

4" model 34-1

Also need the letter in front of the serial number.

These are the only things I could find.

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Welcome to the forum!

You have a wonderful family heirloom, one of the most popular S&W revolvers of yesteryear and still to this day.

To consolidate the info above and add some additional:

1. Official name is ".22/32 Kit Gun" ( a .22 caliber model that is built on a small frame size originally used only for .32 caliber.)

2. Official Model # is 34-1 because it has a 4" barrel. A Mod # 35-1 designates the same gun but with a 6" barrel called the ".22/32 Target". Your gun was original scheduled to be built as a Target model w/6" barrel. But since there was greater demand for the 4" models, the factory built it as a 4" and as you observed. over-stamped the 5 with a 4.

3. The version of your gun was re-introduced in Oct 1960 on the small 'J' frame, but slightly larger than the original .32 caliber frame. They were made with a round or square butt shape, and 2" or 4" barrel.

4. Based on the serial # 118974 it was produced in ~1969.

5. Based on its apparently very nice condition, it would be valued at between $600-$800 with its original walnut factory grips at full retail. This depends on location and also, sometimes they can be found for sale for far less.

6. Original factory round butt, square butt and target grips look like these on the left:



7. This .38 larger frame is likely the gun your your grandfather used in the war that he was reminded of:



You'll love shooting yours if you haven't already, enjoy!

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Wow, thank you so much for all this great info. Fantastic information. I thought he said he bought it earlier than that, but that was 20 years ago and I am probably mistaken. I have the original walnut somewhere, I just can't remember where he said he put it. A guy at the local lodge offered me 650 plus a trade of a small version 9mm. But I declined. That was a nice 9mm though. Ok, so if I'm shooting practice rounds for checking the sights, what ammo do I need? Thanks so much for the reply and info, sir. Much appreciated!

Hi,

You can use any .22 ammo to check the sights, it will be quite accurate with all of them. As with most .22 revolvers, however, you will find that your particular gun will have a preference and shoot its best with some brands, a little better than others. So try at least 3 or 4 different brands.

Mine like Federal and CCI .22 Long Rifle. Or just use the least expensive, it will do very well. Keep the chambers clean for ease of cartridge insertion.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Thank you very much for the great info

Ryno