My very first smith and wesson was my 29-2. When I bought it I thought it was lnib and I payed a hefty price. Later, upon closer inspection I noticed that the "Smith and wesson" engraved on the barrel was faded and realized that it had been refinished. Idk if just the barrel has been refinished or the whole gun but it seems like just the barrel was refinished because it's a little different then the rest of the gun and it kind of looks like the finish on the newer classics. It was a hard pill to swallow but I eventually told myself that it was an expensive lesson learned. Now after about 400 rounds since I bought the gun I have noticed that the barrel pin is walking out. Is it as simple as pressing it back in or does it need an oversized pin so that it won't walk again? I plan on having a gunsmith do the work and am also considering putting a new barrel with original finish on it. Any advice is appreciated thanks.
29-2 barrel pin walking, need advice
- Thread starter s&w-noob
- Start date
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Leave the gun be. We have all overpaid at some time. If the pin is walking you should be able to remove it with a small punch. Put a very slight bend in it and drive it back in with a brass punch. Had this happen on a Model 37 and the bend fixed it.
Pharmer has a good fix, but an easier one might be to raise a small burr in the middle of the pin with a sharp chisel and then drive it in. 
shottist
Absent Comrade
If you really want to change out the barrel and want that Smith tuned and built properly consider sending it to Andy Horvaths shop in Ohio. Andy is a fine 'smith, reasonably priced who performs excellent work. He has been John Taffins Smith for years and his work is well respected. He doesn't have a Web site but you can Google him for his address and phone number. Best of luck!
Alk8944
US Veteran
This is one place on a S&W I would recommend simply using a bit of blue Loc-Tite on the pin. It can be removed if necessary, but will be held firmly.
Barrel pins are often not very tight as they really don't serve any purpose unless the barrel becomes loose, which is the only reason they were ever there! The barrel pin does not do anything to secure the barrel as long as everything else is as it should be.
Barrel pins are often not very tight as they really don't serve any purpose unless the barrel becomes loose, which is the only reason they were ever there! The barrel pin does not do anything to secure the barrel as long as everything else is as it should be.
merl67
Member
Drive the pin about half way out and bend it upwards just a bit and tap it back in place.
BruceM
Member
Yep!
All Smith & Wesson 1 piece revolver barrels are actually "crush fit". When they deleted the barrel pins, their marketing folks came up with the term "crush fit" in order to reassure their customer base.
I would think about this method of repair a bit before doing it. You could possibly raise a burr at the edge of the hole in the frame when trying to bend the pin against it.
Bruce
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s&w-noob,
Are you sure the pin has moved or did you just notice that it is off center? Off center pins are common.
Are you sure the pin has moved or did you just notice that it is off center? Off center pins are common.
This does not sound right. Often the pin only touches the frame, not the barrel, so a bur on its middle might not make it tight.Pharmer has a good fix, but an easier one might be to raise a small burr in the middle of the pin with a sharp chisel and then drive it in.
First of all you don't know for sure that your barrel has been refinished.
Could be but if you could post some pics it would help to find out.
Next having a gunsmith replace your barrel would cost way more than
any value you might expect to gain at the prices for any such custom
work these days. Changing a revolver barrel isn't nearly as simple as
it might appear to be. And what kind of ammo was the 400 rds you
put through it. Full power .44 mag ammo is a bit rough on the 29-2
despite the fact that others may quickly assert that it isn't. If you
want your 29-2 to last a long time shoot mostly light to midrange
loads in it. As to the pin, get a small punch, tap it about halfway out,
clean any oil off with alcohol, coat the pin and the hole from the other
side with red loctite, tap in in and wait about 24 hrs before shooting
with your mild loads.
Could be but if you could post some pics it would help to find out.
Next having a gunsmith replace your barrel would cost way more than
any value you might expect to gain at the prices for any such custom
work these days. Changing a revolver barrel isn't nearly as simple as
it might appear to be. And what kind of ammo was the 400 rds you
put through it. Full power .44 mag ammo is a bit rough on the 29-2
despite the fact that others may quickly assert that it isn't. If you
want your 29-2 to last a long time shoot mostly light to midrange
loads in it. As to the pin, get a small punch, tap it about halfway out,
clean any oil off with alcohol, coat the pin and the hole from the other
side with red loctite, tap in in and wait about 24 hrs before shooting
with your mild loads.
Engine49guy
Member
The barrel set pin should "Protrude on both sides" when properly centered.
If the pin is "Walking out" then one side will look shorter than the other or look like a hole .
Definately post pics before going any further as some S&W's have barrels and cylinders that have slightly different blueing than the frame, granted they are usually 29-3's but we dont know your guns vintage yet either.
On a final note the proper punch for those domed S&W pins is one that has a matching "Dish";
IMO using a flat face or tapered punch will damage the pins and make it obvious someone messed with them that didnt know what they were doing.
The barrel pin is definitely walking it was centered and now it's not. the loads were 240gr lswc with 8.3 grains of universal, pretty mild. Vintage is 1978. I'm almost 100 percent sure it was reblued with how bad the fading is, pics on the way. Thanks for the advice, I think I will try the loctite method and if it doesn't work I can always try something else.
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From what I can see your pics are just too dark to draw any definite
conclusions but it doesn't really look like the barrel is reblued to me.
As mentioned above S&W barrels and receivers don't always appear to
have the exact same finish.
conclusions but it doesn't really look like the barrel is reblued to me.
As mentioned above S&W barrels and receivers don't always appear to
have the exact same finish.
My one revolver with S&W's new substitute for traditional rust bluing has the darkest "bluing" of all my S&Ws. Your barrel appears lighter and greyer than your frame so I doubt that it is the new "bluing." Your 29 looks good to me.
In addition to the cost of changing barrels there is the risk that after it is done POI will no longer align with POA or it might not group as tight. I know that should not happen but generally do not screw with a good shooting gun.
In addition to the cost of changing barrels there is the risk that after it is done POI will no longer align with POA or it might not group as tight. I know that should not happen but generally do not screw with a good shooting gun.
Engine49guy
Member
Im not seeing signs of reblueing either, Do you know what year your 29-2 is ? Im guessing its a late prod gun.
I know it's tough to deal with the thought you've been "had", but I'm not sure that's the case here. I've seen lots of S&Ws with roll marks that were lighter than others, applies unevenly, off-center, and just plain crooked. Lighter or uneven doesn't necessarily mean polished out during rebluing.
Engine49guy
Member
Here is an example of two 29-3's if you look closely the frames are about the same color as yours but the 6" cylinder and barrel have a Purple to them...BTW this pic is indoors but its not really visible in outdoor sunlight
Indoor lighting and a flash makes it look like this:
Indoor lighting and a flash makes it look like this:
Brad, I have a box of punches from an old S&W guy from up in Richmond. The end is dished or concave to match the radius of the pin. You all most get the punch to fit the pin. He noted he got these back in the 50s from S&W. I have never looked to buy any more from any of the big machine shop tool suppliers. Some body out there has to offer them. Best.
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They are called a cup head punch. It keeps the end of the pin from being flattened out.
