I want to de-Bob my 10-6

Bladeswitcher

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A few years ago I bought a 3-inch barrel, square butt Model 10-6 at a gun show. $300 cash and carry. The revolver was a little rough with some wear to the bluing and non-original stocks. The thing has a great trigger that has obviously been worked on. Slicker than snot.

But . . . the hammer had been bobbed.

The bobbed hammer didn't bother me too much but I've since picked up another bobbed Smith, a 3-inch round butt Model 64. That gun appears to have a factory bobbed hammer and stainless makes more sense as a potential carry revolver. Besides, I don't need two Bobs.

So, let's say I want to restore the 10-6 to an original bobbed hammer. What's involved in that? I assume it's not just a case of ordering a hammer from Numrich and dropping it in. I imagine it will need to be fitted by a competent revolver smith.

What can I expect to pay to have this work done?
 
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Sometimes, a replacement hammer WILL drop in. Usually, if you need to do any fitting, you can swap the double action sears between the two hammers. The DA sear is the movable part that is pinned to the face of the hammer. Beware, it is spring loaded!!

Thanks for the response. BTW, here's a photo . . .

eO5KFHQ.jpg
 
While the replacement hammer(s) will probably drop in and function just fine, the beautiful trigger pull you ascribe to the revolver now will most likely be lost. As a general rule, it is stoning and "adjustment" to the hammer sear surface that improves the trigger pull. You, and only you, caqn decide if the trigger pull after hammer replacement is worth having the hammer spur. If not, you can go back to the original hammer and nothing will be lost.
 
If you replace the hammer and give it about 700-800 dry fires, I'm confident you'll be happy with the smoothness of the trigger. Apparently Jerry Miculek says the best trigger job is 3000 dry fires. I haven't seen a big difference after 800, but I'm not Mr Miculek, either.

That said, I personally would leave it. Do you really plan to do that much single action shooting with a 3" M10?
 
While the replacement hammer(s) will probably drop in and function just fine . . . If not, you can go back to the original hammer and nothing will be lost.

This is a great answer. I think I'll try it and see.

What could possibly go wrong?
 
If you replace the hammer and give it about 700-800 dry fires, I'm confident you'll be happy with the smoothness of the trigger. Apparently Jerry Miculek says the best trigger job is 3000 dry fires. I haven't seen a big difference after 800, but I'm not Mr Miculek, either.

That said, I personally would leave it. Do you really plan to do that much single action shooting with a 3" M10?

Or if you're not up to 3000 dry fires, a trigger job by Clark Custom Guns ( his wife's family business) might be in order.
The trigger job they did for me is a magical thing .
Gary
 
I’ve swapped quite a few. All dropped in but one. Of all things the firing pin was a little fat for the pin bushing. A few seconds of filing and it’s been fine. It’s a real easy job
 
Interesting model 10-6; these did not come with 3” barrels from the factory but the next similar variation (the 10-8) did, so I suspect a barrel swap . . .

I could see that. I don't have the gun in front of me but I seem to recall looking at the barrel and wondering if it had been changed.
 
If you don't plan to carry it, I am wondering what the point of keeping it is. After all, it's obviously a carry piece. You could always sell it and buy another one with a hammer spur, possibly with a longer barrel or even in a different caliber.

Personally, I would keep both. You never know, keeping the M10 as a back up may pay off if anything ever happened to the M64.
 
Thanks for the response. BTW, here's a photo . . .

eO5KFHQ.jpg

Nice guns. Personally, I like bobbed hammers. I shoot only double action and as a rookie cop many years ago that's the way I was taught. The only use for a hammer in if you use a thumb break holster. I carry mine concealed, no thumb break, so I prefer a bobbed hammer.
 
If you don't plan to carry it, I am wondering what the point of keeping it is. After all, it's obviously a carry piece. You could always sell it and buy another one with a hammer spur, possibly with a longer barrel or even in a different caliber.

Personally, I would keep both. You never know, keeping the M10 as a back up may pay off if anything ever happened to the M64.

I have no intention of selling either one of them.
 
An update, in case anyone is waiting in anticipation for closure . . .

I bought a hammer on eBay. It dropped right in. I think I like it better with the hammer. I'm going to leave it that way for a while (It's like getting an entirely new gun). I can always change it back later.

BTW, I believe Murphydog is correct about it being a rebarrel. Note the threads visible on the outside of the forcing cone area of the barrel.

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ErWkd9I.jpg

uOadwOG.jpg
 
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