Dos and don't for cleaning nickel.
- Thread starter rubiranch
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Pisgah
Member
There is really no secret or special technique to caring for or cleaning a nickeled S&W. Treat it just as you would treat a blued one.
Thank you.
I was concerned that maybe brass wool might scratch the finish but I guess its tougher than I thought.
I cannot speak to the use of brass wool but I can recommend Flitz. Either on a clean cotton like cloth or your bare finger. Light pressure.
notsofast
Member
I’ve heard that certain solvent/cleaners containing ammonia will begin to lift the nickel plating, others will tell you this is not so because copper was not used as a base coat plating.
If as you say it’s very well used an mostly neglected I would use bronze wool as opposed to brass and go lightly.
If as you say it’s very well used an mostly neglected I would use bronze wool as opposed to brass and go lightly.
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Green Frog
Member
I must admit to having virtually no experience cleaning nickel plated firearms, but have frequently seen cautions on this and other forums warning not to use any solvent such as the old Hoppe’s #9 or others containing ammonia. It seems that the cleaning agents of choice are the German product, Flitz and the automotive product Mother’s Mag Wheel Polish, both of which are pastes and should be applied and removed with a soft cloth. If I were going to try cleaning up a nickel plated gun, I’d use one of these, but not any kind of metallic scrub pad, not even brass or copper wool.
Froggie
PS Darn, typed too slow again!
Froggie
PS Darn, typed too slow again!
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Why would you want to use brass wool? I would use the Flitz or simichrome polish, and a soft cloth. I do not think I would use any kind of wool, but then again, I do not have nickel guns
I meant bronze.
I went to pick up my 4" 686 and a 6" nickle M27-2 snuck into my truck and came home with me.
I just picked up a very used not well maintained M27-2 with a nickle finish and it needs a good cleaning BAD!
Any dos and don'ts for cleaning nickle?
I thought when we had a meeting of the rules committee we decided pictures were kind of mandatory
Thanks for the heads up on the solvents. I'm going to need some kind of solvent.
This thing is gross. That black "stuff"
is caked and baked on. I think I'd wear my fingers out trying to clean it just using Flitz or some other polish.edited to remover the **** word
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I thought when we had a meeting of the rules committee we decided pictures were kind of mandatory
The price was right. I just couldn't pass it up.
I just posted pictures.
I bought a new model 638 in satin nickel back in the mid 90's. Up to that point I had always cleaned my guns with Hoppes #9, like Dad did. I also carried that little gun daily IWB, and it got sweaty (thus the reason I bought nickel over blue), so I kept cleaning it.
About 3-4 years later I started seeing the nickel flaking off, revealing a solid black undercoating of some sort. I sent it back to S&W and they re-nickeled it for me in a couple of week's time.
Not having learned what might have caused it, I continued to clean and wipe it down with Hoppes #9. When it started to come off again (starting under the rubber grips) I was able to get online and figure out what was probably causing the flaking, so I stopped cleaning it with #9 and went to CLP. It never extended past what was covered with the grips, so I left it there as a reminder. It got traded away eventually, and of course I want another one now.
However, the experience left me convinced that the ammonia based Hoppes #9 (of old) was the cause. I did use Flitz with great success on other nickel guns that followed, and would not hesitate to lightly polish and clean them with CLP and Flitz or Renaissance wax as a protectant.
About 3-4 years later I started seeing the nickel flaking off, revealing a solid black undercoating of some sort. I sent it back to S&W and they re-nickeled it for me in a couple of week's time.
Not having learned what might have caused it, I continued to clean and wipe it down with Hoppes #9. When it started to come off again (starting under the rubber grips) I was able to get online and figure out what was probably causing the flaking, so I stopped cleaning it with #9 and went to CLP. It never extended past what was covered with the grips, so I left it there as a reminder. It got traded away eventually, and of course I want another one now.
However, the experience left me convinced that the ammonia based Hoppes #9 (of old) was the cause. I did use Flitz with great success on other nickel guns that followed, and would not hesitate to lightly polish and clean them with CLP and Flitz or Renaissance wax as a protectant.
Dang, There seems to be an abundance of Smith revolvers in Utah.
Maybe scrub with a nylon bristle brush with whatever CLP you use, and then Flitz. Q-tips are great. Good luck and enjoy.
Maybe scrub with a nylon bristle brush with whatever CLP you use, and then Flitz. Q-tips are great. Good luck and enjoy.
Thank you.
You folks have once again saved me some serious grief.
Thank you again.
The down side..... I was hoping to get started cleaning it today.
You are right, it does need a good cleaning!
I would not aggressively go after removing the caked on stuff. I would remove the grips, and spray the heavily caked stuff with a penetrating fluid that is safe for nickel, and then wrap the gun in saran wrap to keep it moist, and let the product do the work. I would repeat the process a couple times as needed. If I needed to rub the caked on stuff, I would use toothbrush and wood popsicle sticks.
The caked on stuff may be hard enough on its' own to scratch nickel?
I would not aggressively go after removing the caked on stuff. I would remove the grips, and spray the heavily caked stuff with a penetrating fluid that is safe for nickel, and then wrap the gun in saran wrap to keep it moist, and let the product do the work. I would repeat the process a couple times as needed. If I needed to rub the caked on stuff, I would use toothbrush and wood popsicle sticks.
The caked on stuff may be hard enough on its' own to scratch nickel?
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Thanks Pete. I ordered a bottle of CLP and I will do exactly as you recommended.
I don't want any scratches and I want it to look really nice when I get done.
Thanks again.
Take your time. Remember, this is like a labor of love. It did not get that way in a day
Nickel can develop fine scratches that really show up under the right light. I would caution against using steel, brass or bronze wool.
I maintain my nickel guns with CLP and a soft cloth and then wipe them dry. I do use bronze brushes in the chambers and bore and I use Nevr-Dull on the front of the cylinder and other areas with heavy fouling.
I have purchased used collectible nickel guns that needed a good detailing. I start with the above maintenance procedure. Then I break out the fine metal polish. I’ve used Flitz, Mother’s and Nambe’ with good results. This will remove some of the fine scratches, dark spots and cloudiness. I finish it off with a light coat of Renaissance wax.
Alway use soft clean cloths and light pressure with the polish and the wax. Work on small areas at a time and don’t let the polish or wax dry before buffing. I apply the polish with patches and the wax with a finger. Rotate your buffing cloths frequently.
Here's a few nickel guns that I detailed. I didn't take "before" photos, but they didn't look like this when found!
I maintain my nickel guns with CLP and a soft cloth and then wipe them dry. I do use bronze brushes in the chambers and bore and I use Nevr-Dull on the front of the cylinder and other areas with heavy fouling.
I have purchased used collectible nickel guns that needed a good detailing. I start with the above maintenance procedure. Then I break out the fine metal polish. I’ve used Flitz, Mother’s and Nambe’ with good results. This will remove some of the fine scratches, dark spots and cloudiness. I finish it off with a light coat of Renaissance wax.
Alway use soft clean cloths and light pressure with the polish and the wax. Work on small areas at a time and don’t let the polish or wax dry before buffing. I apply the polish with patches and the wax with a finger. Rotate your buffing cloths frequently.
Here's a few nickel guns that I detailed. I didn't take "before" photos, but they didn't look like this when found!
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