Information on Model 29-1

MostImpressive · #1 05-21-2022, 08:18 PM

Hello everyone, as a quick introduction I’m both new to being a member of the forum and to appreciating Smith & Wesson firearms and history. The purpose I’m making this post is to request the help of the many knowledgeable people here for information regarding a recent acquisition of mine. It is a blued, 3 screw, 6.5” barrel, Model 29-1 with SN S228690; It did not come with the original grips or case. I was mainly wondering three things: (1) If it is the original finish as there is a lone “66” stamped on the left side of the grip frame and the cylinder has a slight plum color, (2) How to remove or deal with the rust that is on the right side of the frame on the side plate, and (3) Which rear sight is correct for this variant as I have two WO rear sights with notches cut for the paint, but one has a flat elevation screw. Thank you

rbmac52 · #2 05-21-2022, 08:25 PM

Looks to be a slight gap in the side plate at the hammer, which MAY be a sign of a refinish. The screw holes may also show some "dishing" which often occurs during the polish prior to refin. Also, the color of the finish seems more black that bright blue, but this might just be due to lighting and camera settings.

The -1 Model 29 is a valuable variation as it was not made for long.

Nice gun! I hope you can get it out to the range to see what it can do!

22hipower · #3 05-21-2022, 08:30 PM

Congrats, you've just surfaced the 41st known 29-1; at least according to the list I have. I don't see any stamps indicating a factory re-blue but the roll marks on the barrel and the logo appear as though it might be a
re-finish; might just be the lighting though. As to the rust, some oil/kroil with copper wool should do it. I don't have a picture of the rear of the rear sight of mine but perhaps you can tell enough from this one; white outline if I remember correctly without digging for it in the safe. And welcome to the Forum; got a story on how you found this one?

Jeff
SWCA

Hair Trigger · #4 05-21-2022, 08:35 PM

Whatever the answers to your questions are, you've got a gem. The M29-1 is a one-year production (less, actually, as the -2 was in production late the same year); yours is a 1962 manufacture. The SCSW lists fair condition as $1200, and that's a 6 year-old valuation. There will be plenty telling you all about this revolver. Congrats.

And your "MostImpressive" username is Most Appropriate for your first post.

handejector · #5 05-21-2022, 09:07 PM

I'm not confident that the finish is original, but I can't make a definite call from those pics.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjbrdn

As far as the rust, I use the edge of a new penny to remove as much as possible. It will not hurt the bluing. Wipe away the penny residue with an oily rag. Continual applications of Breakfree CLP will also remove any remaining residue over time.
Try this method before using oil and copper/brass wool...the penny is easier on the bluing.

In 1982, pennies became 97.5% zinc with a very thin copper plating. They will scratch the blue. Find an old penny.

They are mixed in 1982, so choose one from 1981 or older.
Don't believe me.
Click-
Is My Penny Solid Copper or a Copper-Plated Zinc Cent?

Doc44 · #6 05-22-2022, 09:08 AM

Like handejector, I suspect your Model 29-1 has been refinished outside of S&W's factory, but the photos are not conclusive. The white outline rear sight with a crowned elevation adjustment screw is correct for your Magnum.

Bill

Hawg Rider · #7 05-23-2022, 09:13 AM

Wow, very nice and very rare! You really found a gem. I'll defer to the .44 Magnum experts that have already chimed in about a reblue, rust removal, sights, etc. And it appears that you have a few buggered screw heads to address, too. It'll make a nice project. Enjoy.

MostImpressive · #8 05-25-2022, 07:18 PM

Thank you everyone for your help, I greatly appreciate it. I had a strong hunch that the bluing wasn’t original but I wanted to be sure before I sent it in to S&W for a refinish. Due to its condition I bought it as a shooter with a unique lineage so everything’s all good. As far as how I got it I saw this one was at a Cabela’s in Colorado and someone got to it before I could, but a few weeks later it turned up at a Cabela’s in Wisconsin as the buyer refused it. (I took better pictures with flash and no flash and temporary grips until I find everything original)

22hipower · #9 05-25-2022, 07:42 PM

Nice, I like it. It looks good to me as is, why pay S&W for a refinish now? What is on it may be closer to the original than anything you'll get from S&W now. . . and more buffing isn't going to help it. Your gun, your money, thanks for sharing the 41st one with us.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

gkitch · #10 05-26-2022, 11:24 AM

I'd also keep it as-is. Very nice gun.

handejector · #11 05-26-2022, 12:02 PM

Still hard to tell, but I think it is probably an above average non-Factory reblue.

MostImpressive · #12 06-01-2022, 03:07 PM

I wanted to get it refinished as I was worrying about the patch of bare metal that’s rusted on the side plate and I also wanted to match the cylinder color to the frame but I do agree that more buffing is not a good idea. Concerning the bare spot, what are some thoughts about using touch up bluing products? Are there any you would use over another or would you even use them? Thanks

murphydog · #13 06-11-2022, 08:01 PM

Late to this thread, but I would clean and wax the affected bare area. Even if you are certain about the refinish it is difficult to impossible to get an exact color match with spot re-bluing.

D1911 · #14 06-12-2022, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MostImpressive

Thank you everyone for your help, I greatly appreciate it. I had a strong hunch that the bluing wasn’t original but I wanted to be sure before I sent it in to S&W for a refinish. Due to its condition I bought it as a shooter with a unique lineage so everything’s all good. As far as how I got it I saw this one was at a Cabela’s in Colorado and someone got to it before I could, but a few weeks later it turned up at a Cabela’s in Wisconsin as the buyer refused it. (I took better pictures with flash and no flash and temporary grips until I find everything original)

You could always contact Curt Harlow (44magget) on the forum and ask to get on his list to have those smooth targets worked over into the Coke design. His work is excellent! Here are a couple of pics of the black washer smooth targets he did for me:

murphydog · #15 05-11-2024, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MostImpressive

I wanted to get it refinished as I was worrying about the patch of bare metal that’s rusted on the side plate and I also wanted to match the cylinder color to the frame but I do agree that more buffing is not a good idea. Concerning the bare spot, what are some thoughts about using touch up bluing products? Are there any you would use over another or would you even use them? Thanks

Hi, see you are back online, how did the refinish decision turn out?

MostImpressive · #16 05-11-2024, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murphydog

Hi, see you are back online, how did the refinish decision turn out?

Thank you for the welcome back. Since my last post life got in the way so I haven’t really done anything with it besides take it out to check on it from time to time. I do have some cold blue and ren wax on the way to deal with the bare spots though

murphydog · #17 05-11-2024, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MostImpressive

Thank you for the welcome back. Since my last post life got in the way so I haven’t really done anything with it besides take it out to check on it from time to time. I do have some cold blue and ren wax on the way to deal with the bare spots though

Thanks! It's frustrating seeing how work gets in the way of the stuff we really want to do!