I personally have only used Wolff springs in all non 1911 guns I own (Colts, S&W and Ruger revolvers), but one of my local gunsmiths is claiming that Wilsons are as good or better. I love the way my triggers feel and won’t be changing anytime soon, but I am wondering if they are as good as is being claimed.

Looking for opinions based on firsthand experience and/or knowledge…

I don't think your gun will know the difference.

I vote for S&W OEM

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

I personally think the Wilson has better geometry, and gives a better action. YMMV. If I were making an aftermarket spring, it would be exactly like the Wilson one.

For my hammer kit, the S&W OEM one is the best.

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protocalldesign.com

First of all, I would bet dollars to donuts that both Wolff and Wilson get their springs from the same source. Second, I expect most US gun manufacturers buy springs rather than try to learn how to do it. Every part of every gun isn't made in the name brands' factory. If Wilson springs cost more than Wolff and you tried one of each in your gun, you probably couldn't tell which was Wilson.

It's a small matter though so go with what you feel best about.

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

Wolff makes their own. I don't know where Wilson gets theirs, but they are not the same. It's not a matter of which one costs more, (I don't know), it's the geometry of the spring and how it works in the gun.

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protocalldesign.com

I have used all of these Wolff springs:

Reduced power mainspring in all of my S&W revolvers, plus

The 15lb rebound spring in my 1917 .45
The 13lb rebound spring in my 19 no dash 4” .357
The 13lb rebound spring in my 10-6 4” .38
The 10lb mainspring (coil) in my Ruger SP101
The 10lb mainspring (coil) in my Ruger GP100

and have also replaced all stock cylinder lock springs with Wolff products. All S&W triggers improved after I lightly polished the rebound blocks and installed the spring kits.The Rugers take more work, and no matter what, never feel as nice as the S&W triggers.

I’m confused - have only seen Standard and reduced power mainsprings on Wolff site, not all those variations?

I have used Wolff reduced power mainsprings in several S&W revolvers and have used various strength rebound springs to tune trigger pulls. I really like Wilson Combat 1911 parts but for springs I go to Wolff.

You are correct. This is proof that oldtimers really does set in as we get older. I typed mainspring and should have typed rebound spring, except for the Rugers, which I believe do come in specific lb increments.

So reduced mainspring and the weights I typed are for rebound springs.

Now I am going to edit my post so I don’t confuse anyone else… but keep your quote of my error so others understand your post in context of my error.

While I have used and like the Wolff I find that the "Power Rib" groove can distort the end of the strain screw. It doesn't seem to effect function though and slightly radiusing the edges of the strain screw end appears to help.

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Sceva
OGCA SWCA NRA

Too many people swap out springs in search of the perfect trigger feel. While many mistakenly believe the goal is a lighter trigger the truth is they want a smoother trigger action. A change in springs doesn't necessarily provide that plus it could also make the gun less reliable.

A S&W is pretty easy to smooth out the trigger pull...a little judicious filing and stoning of a few key components is all that's necessary. I learned that at S&W Armorer's School.

This kinda like performance auto parts...Edelbrock, Holley and others make quality performance parts but they aren't always needed depending on what you're trying to accomplish. You can buy and install their products but you may only be lightening your wallet and getting a nice decal to show the world what parts you have.

I'm not saying Wolff or Wilson Combat springs aren't good quality...they certainly are. But marketing being what is it...they're about selling product with their name on it. You can usually accomplish just as much with the stock springs in place. Pick up a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W manual and it explains how to do things properly.

I recently bought a Wilson spring for My 1911. It is one of the springs made from flat stock. Kind of unique, but it works and feels softer than the 20# Wolfe I replaced. Even tho it is also a 20# spring. Worth a try.

+100 on studying Kuhnhausen’s book on S&W revolvers. Same for understanding what your goals are for the firearm. However, springs are quite inexpensive and allow fine tuning a pistol after you have stoned key contact surfaces (NOT the trigger sear contact, hammer strut, or single action sear contact on the hammer).

I recently purchased a 25-10 on this forum. After agreeing on the sale, the seller disclosed that a prior owner had “done an action job” on the revolver. I knew something about that prior owner and felt confident that I could get the gun where I wanted it. The action was very smooth and the single action trigger was only 2 pounds 0 oz. That was just too light for me, so I replaced the rebound spring with a 13 lb Wolff spring and got the single action pull up to 2 pounds 12 ounces. It still feels very light because it’s so smooth. The prior owner had cut 4-6 coils off the rebound spring rather than getting a lower power spring, so my replacement probably improved function and reliability. However, the double action trigger pull went from 8 lbs. 4 oz. To 9 lbs. 10 oz. That’s a little heavy for my taste. A Wolff reduced power mainspring took it right back to 8 lbs. 4 oz. 👍

Another low cost item that I rarely see mentioned are trigger and hammer shims. I’ve had several S&W revolvers where you could clearly see that either the hammer, trigger, or both rubbed in the frame on one side. A properly sized shim fixes that right up 99% of the time.

My point is that replacing springs isn’t like putting an $80+ replacement trigger in a Glock which may or may not impact the safe operation of the gun. And no one is getting wicked rich off of replacement springs.

I have tried some Wolfe mainsprings and a BANG one and really prefer the Smith mainspring above all others. I have some Performance Center guns that have a ribbed spring that came with the gun, that seems to work well and I won't change them until I need to. Most of my guns I leave with with the original springs installed, and shoot just as well as trying to change springs. The one gun that is my target gun is equipped with the Protocalldesign hammer and installation kit, with the rebound spring that was supplied. Before that, I just cut two coils off the factory rebound spring and balanced the factory mainspring and maybe smoothed the working parts. The biggest frustration I have with new guns is the hand/ratchet bind that almost all new guns have that I have a great deal of trouble making smooth.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

I also agree that this manual is the only way to even attempt to do it yourself, apart from S&W Armorers school.

I prefer the Wilson springs.

I've experimented with springs in my S&W revolvers. A lighter rebound spring is a big help. Just be sure that you still have a positive trigger reset.
However, every single time I've replaced a mainspring, no matter who made it, I ended up with occasional light strikes.
I only use factory mainsprings in my S&W revolvers.