Help! Barrel bulge!

Spike12

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This happened to my Model 10 while shooting commercial made reloads. It was so smooth I didn't even notice it happened but it might have happened with another shooter with me standing next to her. I know it was shot some more in this condition on the same day.

Anyway, didn't even notice it until I was cleaning the barrel and noticed a spot where the brush got 'loose' then tight.

Anyway to fix it and keep shooting this fine old piece?

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With the bulge that far forward, chances are there was a bullet or other obstruction in the barrel near the muzzle (fortunately!). The next bullet did push the obstruction and itself out but caused the bulge. Looks like an older Model 10 and otherwise nice. There should be some barrels around (GunParts, etc.) Personally, I would find a 5" barrel and have a good S&W smith fit a new barrel. There is probably no other damage to the revolver but have it checked. You are lucky!
 
+1. That's a squib load (weak powder charge) that didn't get out the barrel and was hit by the next round.

I have been very lucky, for some reason my ears have always picked up the "off sound" of the squibs I have had the bad fortune to encounter and I never fired into one yet (knock wood).
 
Theoretically, you could cut the barrel down and recrown it (you would need to add a front sight as well) or install a new barrel. I think either solution cost exceeds the value of the gun.
 
The results could have been much worst and I think the two logical solutions have been mentioned if you want to fix it.
 
I purchased a .357 Magnum from a friend with a bulged barrel a few years ago. It wouldn't shoot well with either lead or jacketed bullets (I knew it before I bought it). I was able to find another barrel and I had S&W swap them out.

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Insured shipping to S&W was about $50 and the factory works was $80 (return shipping included, a great deal). Add in the cost of barrel (that you'll have to locate yourself) and you'll have $200+ in the work and the barrel won't be serialized to the gun (if your lucky, you'll find one without a number). If it shoots OK as is with lead or jacketed bullets, I'd just keep shooting it.

Ps. The flat head side plate screw goes under the grip at the back. I think they were accidentally switched.
 
One thing you might do if it doesn't shoot as well a it did before the bulge, you might run a .375 reamer in from the muzzle and free bore it past the bulge a 1/16 or so but you will always see the bulge it should go back to the same accuracy as before. The proper way to do this would be to remove the barrel wrap the threads with copper shim stock chuck it lightly in the lathe chuck bring the tailstock with a center in it, move it in, then set the steady rest to the barrel behind the front sight, then chuck your reamer in the tailstock and feed it in as far as needed. Dont try it free hand in a drill press.
 
Listen, many years ago when I first started revolver shooting I was shooting some light reloads in my new Model 28. The first round seemed very light and the next five lighter still. Then when I tried to eject the empties, the cylinder wouldn't open. Guess how many 158 grain bullets will fit into a four inch barrel? Six, with the first one sticking out of the muzzle and the last one not quite making it through the forcing cone and locking up the cylinder. The current expression by one doing this kind of stupidity is the word "Duh." Ironically, no damage to revolver or shooter but it was fun getting those stuck bullets out. Good thing one of those rounds was not a full load .357.
 
Here's one I picked up a number of years ago.
That's 6 rounds, 3 of them tracer and the last tracer cooked off. (I think that's what finally got the guys attention that something wasn't quite right.
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S&W barrels are pretty common. A lot of shops have take-offs and new barrels in the back. Seen 'em. But they don't sell them as parts - they keep them for repairs, as new ones are hard to get. Find an older pistol smith and I bet you can get a new or used barrel installed for not much.
 
Bummer. The problem will be that the cost of repair might make it unfeasible. I know most folks have heard the story before, but about 6 years ago I found a WW II M&P in a pawn shop priced at $100. Had a bulged barrel. Dealer complained he would never sell the damaged gun. I said I would give him $60 for it (should have said $50) and he snapped at the offer.

Went home and got on ebay (no longer possible as they now don't allow gun parts to be sold) and found a 5" from the same time frame and bagged it for $5. A smith wanted $125 to swap the barrels and that was too much for me. So, despite the look of horror on everyone's face I did it myself. Used a heavy bench vise with 1x2s squeezing the barrel while a wooden hammer handle was passed through the cylinder window close to the front to minimize the risk of twisting the frame and I simply unscrewed the barrel. After soaking overnight in penetrating oil and drifting out the barrel pin it turned right off. I bet I didn't put 10 pounds of torque on it.

The replacement screwed into place and it took about 30 minutes of trial and error to get the holes lined up for the pin. That was the hardest part. Luckily when tightened the front sight was at 12 o'clock and BC gap was about .006". Perfect. Shoots great.

If this were my gun I would start looking for a good deal on a barrel. They pop up all the time. If you have to pay a professional it may cost more than the gun is worth to repair.


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Hey, Spike. Sorry to hear of your misfortune. BUT I may have an answer.

How about a 6" model 10 barrel,,in 99% condition for say ,, $50. shipped? I've been sitting on it for a while now, and the project I had planned never happened.

E-mail is in my profile, if you're interested.

Regards ,,,Allen F.
 
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