J-Frame hammer mod possible??

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:) Looks like a good gun smith could do that job.
He may have to put a heavy spring in to make up
for the lost weight of the hammer. Don
 
Not hard to do unless, it has a hammer nose (firing pin on Hammer). S&W has bobb hammers for sale then you can put the gun back like it was made.
 
Misfires from insufficient "smack" from lightening the hammer by removing the spur, in the case of S&W's, are an unfounded worry.

Lightening the hammer allows the same spring to swing it faster, and faster swinging increases the energy the hammer imparts when it hits either the firing pin, transfer bar or whatever.

Folks who begin to get misfires after bobbing their hammer practically always also either shortened the strain screw, backed it out some or lightened the mainspring by replacement or metal removal.

I find that a bobbed hammer is a great idea on most concealed carry revolvers, especially pocket-carried guns.
 
I've put short spur hammers from Model 38's (shrouded model) in Model 36's . Sort of the best of both worlds. It's easy to cock with your thumb, but won't catch on anything.
 
If your J frame hammer has the firing pin ON the hammer it can't be taken to the profile you mention. If it's a frame mounted firing pin then it can be made to the profile of what you showed as an example.

I'll be happy to cut the hammer for you IF it has the hammer mounted pin.... I'm in Concord so not too far.... PM me and we'll set something up........
 
This is one a 360PD...the firing pin is not on the hammer.

What do you guys think I should do?

I love the look of the hammer in the link that I posted, I was wanting a shrouded hammer and I think that that hammer is a great way to get there while not having to get another J-Frame.
 
My 360PD wears a hammer from a 340PD, which I got for a few bucks from a forum member. Cheap and effective way to go, if not very pretty. Maybe this pic will show it. It's tough to get a good shot.
IMG_1933a.jpg
 
Sponge Bob Jframe

It's quite easy to do yourself. I marked a line on the hammer with it in the full down position(trigger pulled), disassembled, took off spur with a hack saw, ground to line with a grinder wheel(be very careful it takes material off quickly), cleaned it up with a file, and finally polished with fine grit sandpaper. I think it turned out nicely.
jframehammer006.jpg


P.S. I have a reduced power mainspring and a 13lb trigger return spring installed, and after several hundred rounds have not had any FTF's
 
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It's quite easy to do yourself. I marked a line on the hammer with it in the full down position(trigger pulled), disassembled, took off spur with a hack saw, ground to line with a grinder wheel(be very careful it takes material off quickly), cleaned it up with a file, and finally polished with fine grit sandpaper. I think it turned out nicely.
jframehammer006.jpg


P.S. I have a reduced power mainspring and a 13lb trigger return spring installed, and after several hundred rounds have not had any FTF's


I was considering doing the same on a MIM hammered M60. Thanks for posting the pic, IMHO your bobbed MIM hammer turned out quite well...
 
I cut, filed, and polished the hammer on my Taurus 85 car gun flush with the frame (FP is on the frame). It looks just like the one in the OP's link. Fires 100%, too. Took about an hour to get it pretty.
 
If you want to see some really extreme (and downright bizarre) hammer modification, check out the work done by Mike Carmoney over at the Brian Enos forum. He is a top level USPSA revolver competitor whose "thing" is really light trigger jobs and attendant hammer modification. The first time you see a lightened "Carmonized" hammer you'll think there's no way in the world that it will work. But it does. The MIM hammers without the attached firing pins can be ground down to the point where there's literally hardly anything left. The belief that you need the mass of the spur to get reliable ignition is a complete myth and frankly I'm amazed that some top level gunsmiths still believe it.

On the other hand, you can not grind away much of a hammer that has the firing pin on it, for obvious reasons. I prefer to remove just the spur and leave the rest of the hammer intact. This is something you can do yourself with a hacksaw and a Dremel if you are careful. The tricky part is cleaning up the works with a polish or bead blast to make it look nice.

Dave Sinko
 
Posted in another thread - Carmoney inspired Taurus 85
 

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Taurus used to make a concealed hammer snubby (Mod 85CH) that had a flush hammer like that. I carried it for years before moving to a S&W J. (Long story).

Thanks for your pic stoneman! I want to bob the hammer on my360PD and was sceptical on how it would turn out. Yours gives me the answer I was looking for.
 
I have a 317 bobbed hammer from Numrich I am going to install soon to my 360J. Its a nice short hammer, still thumb cockable.
 
Doh! Never even thought to look at Numrich for a bobbed hammer.
( S&W wouldn't sell me one!) That said, I just spent an hour and did mine tonight!
Very pleased with the outcome.

Morebobbedhammer003.jpg
 
Installed the 317 hammer today. needed a bit of fitting, but nothing my dremel can't handle. Added benifit is the hammer has no lock cutout so the gun should never lock itself up.
While apart, I noticed a "flap" from the factory machining near the firing pin. It just flaked off with my pen.
 

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Model 60 (no dash) bobbed. The rear of the hammer mounted firing pin is exposed but contoured smooth.
IMG_1343.jpg

Sure like the look of the Ol 60's when "bobbed"..A guy who used to own a shop just down the street from me cross hatched the top of the bobbed hammer so "if you wanted to" you could get a grip on it for single action use ...and it looked kinda cool to boot.

JW
 

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