Hi Everyone,
So I am really enjoying my new 686 with a 6" barrel...been shooting at different distances and it got me thinking;
What is this revolver capable of in the hands of the right shooter?
I plan on doing some hunting with this eventually...Right now, (with open sights)I would say 25 yards would be my max shot; where I know I can keep my rounds in the 8" circle target...I figure that's 4" all around from center of aim!
I've only been shooting this a few days and I am hoping with enough practice, I can increase to 50 yards...
Is this distance achievable with this set-up?

Thanks, Drew

50yds is very do-able with a 6" 686 for deer size game. try practicing using a tree as a rest for one hand with the shooting hand across it. use the heavier bullets(158 and up) for good knock down power. good luck with it. lee

Using Remington 158gr JSP over WIN296, I get consistent 4" groups at 100yds with my 8" 686 with Leupold 2X mounted. The 6" has the requisite mechanical accuracy, but you might need a scope to achieve the full potential.

In other words, the limiting factor is the shooter, not the gun.

I think the 6 to 8" model 686 is the most accurate revolver out there. I have not approached the accuracy levels mentioned in other posts, nor have I scoped my 686, but I know I am more accurate with it than with any other gun, period.

I can shoot my 686+ more accurately than any handgun I've ever owned. It is one outstanding gun!

I've got a 6" 686-4 that I've had for many years, it outshoots me and always has. I've beaten several python owners with it over the years, I feel confident out to about 75 yds with it offhand. I wouldn't hesitate to use it for hunting, the 686 is my favorite 357 mag revolver.

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Sie vis pacem parabellum

I dearly love my 4" 686. Its amazes me how accurate it is, it makes me look better than i actually am. I can consistently hit milk jugs out to 80-100yrds with that thing(by consistently i mean 4 or 5 of every 6 hit). Infact, the only thing done to it is trigger work, and i can easily outshoot my pc627 every day of the week with a wider variety of ammo. That is one that will never leave my collection. Now im in search of a 686 hunter to replace my 627 when it sells.

Thanks for the tip, that's an excellent suggestion that I hadn't thought of...it's gotta help stabilize the revolver for the longer shots.
Looking forward to practicing this

Drew

That was a good tip on the tree rest - sort of a movable shooting bench.

Thanks for all the replies...much appreciated!
You all got me hyped up and wanting to go shoot more...I like getting the re-assurance that the gun is more than capable of producing the desired accuracy. Now it's up to me to strive to do my best to see it's potential.
I like the challenge!!! I shoot a Compound Bow as well and I know if I do my job with that, I can achieve amazing accuracy from 50 yards and in...The Bow is probably capable of much better in the right hands...
So anyway, I'm stoked up and ready to get improving with my new S&W686.
So far I have shot Winchester 38 special FMJ 130 grain and Hornady Leverlution 357 Mag 140 grain ammo in it.
Any thoughts on factory ammo that you find more accurate in this model? Also, considering that the 38 special rounds are less expensive and I will probably be shooting these the most;
What 38 Special and 357 Mag matches the closest for POA? Hoping to find some that is close enough to keep sights at 1 adjustment and compensate for any diffences...
Thanks, Drew

Bullet weight is most important, and I use 158gr.
You can sight it for 50yd with the .357 158gr and usually be OK with the .38 158gr within 50yd. Just need to try it and see how you do.
I haven't bought any commercial .357 hunting ammo in many years, but I load Remington bullets.

But if you take out of production gun maker into consideration you get you pants blown off by a Dan Wesson with tensined barrels, my 6" DW has out shot every S&W I have or have owned including my N fames.

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Cranky Old Retired USN Guy

I have my 686 6" sighted in for 35 yards and adjust from there.
I used to hunt with a compound bow also and set mine up with one sight pin at 30 yards.
then I could just raise or lower elevation for distance.
this worked well for me so i use the same type of technique in setting up my hunting revolver and practice at that distance so that I can tell qwikely if I am closer or farther away from my intended target.

Ive shot my 686 out to 200 yrds no problem.Very accurate gun.

Any of you reloaders? What powders are you using for 50-100 yard shots?

WIN296 (H110) a little under max load

Ha! I'd take that bet...

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Sie vis pacem parabellum

My brother and I once did a shootoff: his scoped AR-15 .223 versus my 8 3/8" barreled 686 (iron sights) shooting .38 special LSWCs. Target was a Mountain Dew bottle at 125 yards. He was sitting in the pickup, resting the rifle out the window. I gave him five shots from the rifle= no hits. I leaned over a fencepost, cocked the gun for single action, and fired one shot = direct hit. In his defense, he hadn't had the AR for very long, and I had been shooting my 686 A LOT.

My point: 686s are damned accurate. Practice, practice, practice.

I love my 686-3 4 inch but I can still shoot my model 28-2 4 inch more accurate at 25 yds. This is with 158gr ammo. For me the N frame is more accurate when it comes to shooting 357s.

roaddog28

This tread is making me start to shake. I have a 686-1 silhouete 8-3/8, and this past weekend, I loaded 100 rounds. 50 with h-110 and 50 with 2400. Got to go shoot.

The 686 is undoubtedly one of S&Ws master strokes. It holds them in there with my Colt Python, which I used to regard as THE benchmark in wheelgun accuracy. I have them from 3 inches, 4 inches (both CS-1) and a 6 inch export model. Outstanding accuracy, much better than I can hold out to where I cannot see anymore.
I use 158 gr SPs, the hottest I can get (Buffalo Bore) and I will hunt up to reasonably sized Black Bear with it, of course the down side is that I cannot predict when I might meet a 700 pound Black Bear. I also have a batch of Buffalo Bores hard cast penetrators in 200 gr for that eventuality-hope I can change ammo fast enough- I know! I will carry the 3 incher so loaded.
Anyway, enjoy what is historically great revolver.

I am impressed with the accuracy some of you are getting, I know this gun will do a lot better, 586-3, 4". Attached are a couple of targets I shot yesterday.

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Wow, Thanks Everyone for sharing your stories and info!

I am even more stoked than earlier; can't wait to put some of these tips into action...looks like it will be it least Friday before I can free up any daylight time for practice.

Take care for now, Drew

Forth stage, PPC match, 2 strings of 6 shots each, 50', free style, in 15sec...
686-6 x 6" Untouched action from factory...

It's hard to beat the 586/686 model.

O.K.;
So I couldn't wait any longer, I found some time today to do some more shooting...
I started my first set of 5 rounds at 40 yards; For the first shot I wanted to try the tip on using the non-shooting arm as a rest...didn't work for me like I had hoped...found it very hard to steady the sights; maybe I just need to practice it more, as I am use to shooting 2 handed most the time.
I found that when I put my palm against the tree to make a horizontal rest out of my arm, it seemed very steady...but when I put the other shooting arm over the top and tried to steady the shot holding the revolver with one hand, it just was to shaky for me...
But, then I decided to just use the tree to lean-on (put my back against it and used my normal 2 hand hold)...now this worked well for me...all 5 rounds were in the 4" by 4" square and they were grouped tight!
Decided to shoot another 5 rounds, using the tree as rest again, but this time I leaned my shoulders/arms against it, from behind it...I had pretty much the same grouping.

After that, I started to shoot more sporatic...mainly high...
Which brings me to another question???
Do you all clean your barrel between every so many shots (10-20-50-etc.)? I noticed mine was pretty dirty after firing 10 rounds....Shooting Winchester 38 Special FMJ 130 grain.
Wondering how this may effect accuracy.
I know with my black powder rifle I have to swab the barrel between shots or my accuracy suffers big time...

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!!!

I doubt if the barrel not being cleaned after a few rounds would make any noticeable difference. You could have developed a flinch which might have caused what you described. That happens to me often at the range.

Yeah, I am sure it was me today...I think I got over sure of myself too, after the first 2 sets were hitting POA, that I wasn't making sure that I was doing all those little so important details on the next set
But anyway, is it a good idea or necessary to clean for accuracy if your going to be doing numerous rounds? What's the general rule of thumb where one might start seeing decreased accuracy, where as it might be beneficial in doing a swabbing before continueing...
I would think type of ammo matters too.
Just curious if your shooting 50/100 rounds or more.; do you start seeing much of a difference, were cleaning is needed?

Thanks!

I use to shoot steel rams at 75 yards with mine. They are quite accurate revolvers. I would hit 3-4 each cylinder full quite easily (the ram was 12" big). I would shoot spls thru it as the ping sound was better heard. That's fun to do!!

My 686 is gone because I upped the caliber on my collection over the summer, so it's 44 spl now for ram work, got to keep the trigger finger in shape.

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NRA Benefactor Member

; Thanks for sharing...these posts keep me hyped-up on improving!

Drew-67, glad to hear you got some shooting in today. I will try to go tomorrow.

And to the earlier post, I've been wanting a Dan Wesson revolver for years - ever since I saw a friend's in its box with assorted barrels/tools if I remember right.

I don't think a super clean barrel should have much affect on accuracy. I peek down the barrel after even one shot and it looks dirty. I guess it is just fired powder residue that blows out and gets re-deposited with each shot.

Thanks! Hope you get out tomorrow...
I've got some 158 grain ammo on order, looking forward to seeing how I do with these.
Sure is Fun!

I'm a 4" barrel fan and over the years I've sold all of my longer barreled revolvers in order to finance purchases of 4" and 3" guns. With one exception and that's my 6" 686. That one goes to the range whenever I want to shoot for maximum accuracy and I'll never sell it.

Hi drew-67,

Right now, if you aren't an extremely experienced handgunner, I'd suggest shooting your 686 from the bench . . . and supported by sandbags in order to dial in your sights to hit P.O.A.

HOWEVER . . .

Keep in mind that Point Of Aim WILL vary based upon many things: bullet weight, type of powder, amount of powder, choice of primer, MAKE of bullet, all sorts of things. So . . . when you finally hunt with a heavy & hot bullet, you'll probably have to re-zero your revolver for that round.

Also, a bullet shoots a rainbow trajectory, just like throwing a football. Consulting trajectory charts will help you understand the "rainbow" better, once you decide which range to zero your revolver for POA.

BUT FIRST . . .

If you are a novice handgunner, two things I'd recommend now:

1. Get some good instruction from a fine handgun instructor on the many nuances of grip, breathing, stance, trigger control, sight alignment, etc. A fine shooter who knows how to teach the art of handgun accuracy can turn you into a really fine shot . . . and prevent you from making the many types of possible errors in your hand control that can doom you to mediocrity.

2. Before moving up to the big boomer/heavy bullet loads designed for deer hunting, I'd strongly recommend you mainly shoot hundreds of rounds of the humble ol' .38 Special ammunition loaded with the super-accurate and very soft kicking 148 grain Wadcutter bullets.

The soft kick will greatly help you in avoiding the development of a flinch. PLUS . . . and more important to ME . . . those powder-puff rounds are super-gentle on your guns . . . making them last much, much longer.

T.

BTW, I'm a deer hunter who hunts mainly with a 6" barreled S&W .44 Magnum revolver using a really heavy, stout load. HOWEVER . . . when I practice with any of my handguns, I handload really soft recoiling ammo to make the guns last longer. Plus, it is a lot more fun!

I'll write another post about developing field accuracy tonight if I can find the time.

Good luck! Handgun hunting is so much fun!!!

The 686 is "KING" of the revolvers, and that is mild saying. Old Navy says the Dan Wesson is better, never shot one or around one. But I will take his word for it till I see different. For a gun still being made you can't beat the performance of it. They are just like a 22LR, you have to find the right round that it likes to eat. My 6 inch loves a 148gr HBWC, of course it likes the ones that are hard to find "ZERO" brand.

Hi again,

Your 686, 6" barreled .357 has a lot of potential to be a tackdriver.

Shooting it supported (sandbags, etc.) from a good shooting bench, it should be able to hold a 3 shot group WITHIN 2" every single time you do YOUR job.

Now how that translates to "field" accuracy will vary greatly depending upon the skill of the operator. But first, you'll have to dial in your chosen hunting load for a POA distance (probably either 35 or 50 yards depending upon your area you will be hunting.


My 6" barreled S&W Model 29-5, which is a big framed revolver that looks a lot like the smaller 686, is in .44 Magnum caliber but its accuracy is also quite similar to the .357 you'll be hunting with. Both handguns can be excellent on deer.


I STRONGLY RECOMMEND A GOOD RED DOT SIGHT for hunting.

- No, NOT a scope (you'll get worried about the "shakes" when you see the barrel wiggling until you get the shakes out of your hands).

- No, NOT the iron sights, for the accuracy goes totally out the window if there's any mis-alignment between the front blade and the rear sight . . . and deer are about like 2 year-olds . . . they ain't gonna stand there forever as you focus only on your front sight!!!

A red dot sight shoots the bullet to that point so it is super-fast in the field, so you can spend your brain power looking for other things . . . twigs and branches in the way . . . locating the perfect impact spot on the deer . . . making sure the rack is the right size, etc.

For us guys getting ah-hem, "older" too, the red dot sight makes it a lot easier in all light conditions vs. using iron sights.

ADDED BONUS . . .

The speed of the red dot sights allows you to make some incredible shots pretty fast. I dropped a big doe, running broadside in a fresh clear cut . . . at sixty-five yards once. I'd just dropped a FIRST one . . . and that second one took off! Both fell directly down and never moved!

Then, a buck stood up (not seen in the clear cut) and started nuzzling the first deer . . . so I dropped it too. Three deer in mere seconds. No way could I have done this with a rifle.

On another hunt, I took three deer in a deep bottom the same way with my handgun! Lots of great memories through the years as a handgun hunter.

Here's the kind of accuracy your gun should be capable of:

FROM THE BENCH . . .

My M29 is ALWAYS under 2" groups at 50 yards. Always. Here's a typical target, shot at a homemade target of a 5" square:





IN THE FIELD . . .

I'm more proud of THIS target . . . I just shot ONE target that day, to confirm that my red dot sight was still zero'ed with my hunting round before the 2008 hunting season began. IT WAS!

This target was shot at 50 yards too, but STANDING and totally unsupported for FIVE rounds. Yep, a two handed hold of course.

Well . . . actually I fired six shots . . . for I KNEW the second round went of a little low, though I couldn't see its impact. So, I shot six rounds instead of five and the second round was a "called flyer."

No, it isn't sub-2" . . . but it is FIELD accuracy that is great for this many rounds from a 6" revolver. BTW, I sight my M29 for a 75 yard zero. Five rounds into 2 3/4" inches ain't bad . . . now if I could have avoided that second round!!!:



Here's my 1989 M-29, topped with a first generation Bushnell Holosight. Lots of deer taken with this revolver thorough the years. BTW, the hide beneath the revolver is from a rare Piebald (white-spotted) Whitetail buck taken with this revolver:




Here's my latest result with this rig, on Nov. 4th:



Hope this helps! Gotta run out to the deer camp now . . . I'll be in the stand in the morning with my M29!!!

Tom

Hi Tom Turner, Sir!
Thank You for your Helpful post...
Do you recommend just my hands/arms supported by the sandbags; or the revolver? Just want to clarify...cause when I shoot my rifle I support the rifle itself in the sandbag, however somewhere I heard you should not do this with a handgun because it needs to re-act from the shot???

Initially when I first purchased the 686, I was going to sight it in with a good rest/sandbags...but then I got thinking, yeah that's when the trouble started...lol. I started comparing shooting my Handgun to shooting my Compound Bow; I figured they have a lot in common as far as proper form when shooting or they let you know your doing something wrong in a hurry; touchy. So anyway, I figured I certainly never use a rest when sighting in my Bow, so why do it with my Handgun...

I have had a permit and Handgun since 1992, but I would consider myself Novice as i've never had any formal training...
I would eventually like some from a good Instructor, but, for the time being I am going to have to rely on all of you "Internet Instructors".

If you can find time to write more on Field Shooting Accuracy, it would be much appreciated...I would like to do some Hunting with this. That is one of the main reasons for the new desire to become the best shot I can be after all these years...
I don't plan on using this for hunting until Next Year, so I've got some time to get to be proficient enough so that I would be comfortable from my goal of 50 yards and in.

Regarding rounds; been using mainly 38 Special rounds (Winchester 130 grain FMJ). Selection is limited; yet to find any Wadcutters.
I have some Remington UMC 38 Special 158 grain on there way.

Thanks again!

Cool Thanks for sharing...I guess we were typing our posts at the same time...

Yeah, I have yet to find the Wadcutters...guess I gotta look harder.
I will say that I shoot the 686 way better than any hangun I have had...and reading all of the posts on this thread makes me want to do better

Thanks, Drew

Drew,

While professional instruction could certainly benefit you, I wouldn't sweat it if you don't get it. There are plenty of proficient handgunners who have never had any instruction. Elmer Keith never had any, just lots and lots of practice (if you don't know who he is, your sixgunning education has not yet begun). Getting really good with your gun is simply going to take thousands of deliberate rounds.

Thanks for the words of encouragement!
I know that I have doubled my effective range just in the last couple weeks by using proper technique and practice...it also has been a big help knowing that I now own a handgun that is incredibly accurate!!! No more excuses

I'm gaining

Add me to the list of those who believe that the 6" L-frame is a top gun in the accuracy arena. One thing regarding shooting practise (and I realize that I'm saying this with no knowledge of your specific background): old-fashioned one-handed bulls-eye shooting (in my opinion) will help a lot in both increasing your skill and identifying any problems with your grip and "triggernometry". It's a very good diagnostic.

Hi,
I may try this more in the future...Thanks!

Today, I shot from a good bench rest so I could make sure the gun was shooting exactly as I had sighted in freehand.

*I posted more on this in the "Lounge area" POA Groupings.

Anyway, I gotta say, the groups were very tight with most touching the other rounds...I am very impressed with this 686!
My groups were all shot from 25 yards with 357 ammo today...140 grain and then 158 grain. Very consistant!

If you really want to have some fun with that 686, start reloading. I cant believe how much better reloads are! Good Luck

Yeah, you know it's something I thought about doing many years ago...mainly was thinking about reloading 12 gauge shotshell for bird-hunting back then; just thought it would be cool to do.
Now that I purchased the 686 and have the new desire to shoot all the time, it may be a great reason to try reloading
Not to mention the cost of ammo these days!

Whadaya think a basic starting reloading set-up would cost?

Depending on brand and what all you would consider a start up kit. My guess is $350 to $550 would set you up real nice. Not counting cases, bullets, primers and powder and reloading manuals.

__________________
Cranky Old Retired USN Guy

It will do 100 yards easy, I can shoot a 8 inch group Bullseye style (One Hand), To hunt with it I went out and found me a walking stick with a "Y" on top to use for a rest, plus these old legs need it for the walk.

My 4-inch 686 was never scoped, but off a good rest it made me look like I knew what I was doing......most of the time. I had pretty good eyes 20 years ago.

Drew,

Answering your "what would it cost to get started reloading" question:
There is absolutely no need to spend $300 plus dollars. Check out the Lee single stage kit. It has almost everything you need.

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit - MidwayUSA

This is how I got started reloading about 10 years ago, and I still have this kit. I'd also recommend you buy Richard Lee's handloading book, called Modern Reloading (or a comparable book). It has step by step instructions, as well as load info more most of the popular cartridges reloaded today. You should be able to get everything you need equipment wise (minus the actual ammo components) for right around $100.

Thanks for the info!