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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


 
 
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:30 PM
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bobsleatherworks bobsleatherworks is offline
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.38 vs .357 for stopping power... .38 vs .357 for stopping power... .38 vs .357 for stopping power... .38 vs .357 for stopping power... .38 vs .357 for stopping power...  
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Default .38 vs .357 for stopping power...

Hello,

I'm on the fence about whether or not to stay with my Model 457 .45ACP as a carry gun...which even as a compact 3 1/2" 7 shot semi-auto, is still a serious hunk of steel to carry on a belt unless its hanging in the shoulder holster I made for it.

Currently the above mentioned gun is on its way to S&W for a repair since it was not functioning correctly 100% of the time.

And, I'm wondering if I should just return to "keep it simple" and get a carry revolver. If I stumble on a .44 special Model 696, there would be no question. I made a compact slide holster for this gun for a man and basically fell in love with the gun while I had it in my possession.

But, if I go to a revolver, I'm likely to go to either a .357 Model 65 or a .38 Model 64 with a 3 inch barrel. I just located a 65-5 in a pawn shop for $430. And so, the question comes up:

In the hopefully not going to happen but never-the less could happen one day scenario, if you hit an assailant center mass ONE TIME with either a .38 JHP or a .357 JHP will you get a significant difference in stopping power from the .357...or, will the .38 do the job just fine?

BTW...are both the Model 64 and 65 +P guns?

Thanks!
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357 magnum, 3913, 44 magnum, 45acp, 640, 642, 696, airweight, cartridge, ccw, concealed, j frame, k frame, kahr, l frame, lock, model 65, polymer, remington, sig arms, snubby, springfield, tactical, trooper


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