This is my first post here, ive been a lurker for awhile but to lazy to register. I could use some feedback from some more experianced forumites, and I would greatly apreciate it.


Heres my problem, Ive got a 327pc 1 7/8 barrel, (the snubby eight shot) and this gun only has about 1,500 rounds through it. Im using factory ammo, not junk like wolf. mainly firing 38plus p's through it. What has developed after 1,000 round is a light primer stike for 10% of rounds fired. by light I mean a small indentation in the primer less than half the depth and width of a normal strike and of course wont fire. All rounds that are light striked will fire in both my 5inch 327 and my 340pd but will not fire in my 327 snub.

This is where the story gets weird. I already sent the gun to Smith and with there great service they had it back to me in a little over a week. They had replaced the firing pin and the springs.(I sent it to them another time for a loose barrel that they reset promptly also) Unfortunatly, the problem persists.

I love this gun, it is one of my favorite colder weather CCW pieces and increadbly acurate within 20 yards. I really want this problem fixed and im hoping someone can give me some feedback so I can help Smith pinpoint what the problem is with the least back and forth shipping posible.

Thanks in advance

Dan

Welcome to the forum. Great bunce of people here. You'll learn a lot. Performance Center revolver I'd sent it back til they get it right. I detailed note of the problems to help would be good. I had a problem with flame cutting on the Ti
cylinder so at my suggestion they replaced it with a 627 SS one which they do on their NG series. Frank

Do yourself a favor and buy an extra length firing pin from Cylinder & Slide. C&S sells these for a reason. They are a hair longer than the factory firing pin and should cure your "light strike" problem forever. I have one in all my frame-mounted firing pin Smiths.

S&W Extra Length Firing Pin for New Style J - K - L -N Revolvers

As NavyFrank notes, the titanium cylinder models have a known issue with cylinder erosion. I predict that Smith is going to get away from them and expand their models coming out with scandium frames mated with stainless steel cylinders. Swap in a steel cylinder and with the addition of less than 2 ounces of weight, the cylinder erosion problems associated with the titanium cylinders goes away. This seems like a logical and more than fair trade-off.

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Steve
NJ State Trooper (rtd)

Does those cause an additional issues?

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If you're referring to the C&S firing pin, the answer is no. They are currently being used in hundreds if not thousands of Smith revolvers. The only difference between them and the factory pins is they are made from hardened steel (not MIM) and they are, if I remember correctly, .002" longer, just enough to cure the light strike issues that some Smith revolvers have had.

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Steve
NJ State Trooper (rtd)

The C&S fp's did have the same overall size & shape as the OEM part - but the retaining notch was wider, allowing more forward movement of the fp. The return spring gets worked more - especially so in dry firing - and can fail sooner as a result. For the longest and most troublefree life, dry-firing should be greatly limited after installing said fp. BTW, my 627's with moonclipped - or not - ammo, wimpy .357M's or .38's alike, have been fine - with Federal or Winchester primers. CCI primed ammo - like 'Blazers' or 'Blazer Brass' will yield the odd ftf - but for a reason. I keep Wolff reduced effort hammer springs in said revolvers - they were 100% dependable with OEM springs. My previous experiences with very tempermental 625's in .45 ACP with ftf's proved to me the imprortance of cleaning - especially the ejector rod/ejector star juncture. I've traced ftf problems to carbon deposits, cotton swipe threads, and bore brush brass wires there. I wear my readers when I clean now... and clean carefully.

About Ti - it holds up great at normal pressures - and in full length cartridges. Short cases - like .44 Russians in a .44 Special chamber - or .38 Specials in a .357 Magnum chamber - will leave carbon and lead deposits, which must be removed before a .357M cartridge is inserted. Sadid deposits are problematic to remove from the easily galled Ti. So, shooting .38's is fine - just don't go to .357M's without chamber cleaning first - all eight of them! Good luck!

Stainz

PS Don't forget to check the strain screw, under the lower front of the grip - it should be tight. If left loose - it will further loosen with firing, eventually giving 100% ftf's!

Regarding the strain screw, two words: blue Loctite!

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Steve
NJ State Trooper (rtd)

Thanks for all the replies. im going to buy 3 of those pins for all my newer revolvers, at 13 bucks a pop I think I can aford that. Im still sending it back to smith with a full report. One pertainant fact is this gun is only a year and a half old, so I want them to do all the fixing for now. there is no cylinder erosion. also im a fanatical gun cleaner; every range session gets a imidiate soak in montanas cowboy and then break free for about a day before I scrub, wipe and brush them out.

Im pretty sure its not a cleaning issue. the sorter pins to pass the CA drop test seem to be more suspect than anthing else.

Two local shooters are using the 627 PC JM version in pistol competition. Both have more than 6000 rounds of mild 38 Special loads through them. No evidence of problems with the titanium cylinder. Actually I would love to have the titanium cylider and titanium shrouded barrel fitted to my 627PC.

Thanks for all the great replies. I really do love this gun and cant wait fir it to be 100% reliable.

I had some questions about those extended firing pins, Ive never changed one out but i am quite mechanicaly inclined. If anyone has any recomended manuals for Smith revolver gunsmithing or repair work books I would greatly apreciate it.

thanks

Dan

Swapping out the firing pin is a cake walk. All you have to do is remove the sideplate, put a little pressure on the firing pin and lift out the retaining pin with some tweezers. Then the firing pin will slide right out. When installing the new pin you will have to pay attention to it's orientation so the slot will mate up with the retaining pin.

BTW, Cylinder and Slide's specs state that it permits 0.007 inch more extension than the factory pin. They also state that Snap Caps MUST be used for any dry firing, most likely to protect the rebound spring for the firing pin.

Now, a hint. I tried the C&S firing pin in my 610-3. After a range session I was putting the empties back in the ammo tray as I reloaded my clips with the base up. After I had loaded up a full box I saw that about 30% of the primers were darkened. I check the dimples of the darkened primers with a 10X loupe and every single one had microscopic cracking in the dimple. BTW, ammo was 40 caliber Federal Champion. Point is, cracking in the dimple is an indication that in my case the extended pin was a bit too much of a good thing. While it probably won't be the case with your gun, you should take the time to line up your fired casings and check if you install this fring pin.

As noted, you do need to check and make sure that your strain screw is completely tight. In addition, the end of the strain screw can peen with use, which effectively makes it shorter. While I wouldn't expect that to happen in only 1000 rounds downrange you may want to take a look at the end of the strain screw installed in your gun. If it's developed a small burr around the diameter of the end, it's time to replace it.

One other possible issue is ammo/moon clips that aren't compatable. Some moon clips don't work well with some brand of brass. If you find that your brass is excessively "wobbly" when mounted in the clips you might try a thicker clip or a brand of brass with a thinner cut by the rim.

replacing the titanium cylinder for a stainless steel one... now there's an idea!

Was this gun fixed to your satisfaction?

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