686 Plus 357 4" 7 shot - Which 357 ammo?

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Mr. Fahrenheit

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Hello all,

Still a newbie here and I've received good advice in the past so I'd figure I'd ask another question.

I just purchased a 686 7 round revolver. I took it to the range and put 50 rounds through the barrel. My God! I'm in love.

I shot 25 rounds of Remington 125 grain JSP and 25 rounds of Federal 158 grain JSP. I really didn't notice much of a difference between the two, so I figure I may as well just shoot the Federal that's $5 per box (of 50) cheaper.

I also purchased a box of Remington 125 grain SJHP, but have not put them through the gun yet.

Are any of these loads putting to much stress on the revolver? Should I shoot the 125 grain over 158 grain? What about jacketed hollow points over soft points, any difference as per reducing the life of the barrel?

I only see myself putting maybe 200 rounds a month through the gun. But I've never shot such a hot round before and it's raising all these questions in my head.

Thanks for your time.
 
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I have the 4" 586 7 shot .357

It gets fed a regular diet of 158gr FMJ .357's and 130gr FMJ .38 Specials at the range. The .38's feel like a dream recoil wise. The 158's are normal .357 recoil, nothing to be concerned about. For poking holes in paper I tend to shoot FMJ's (with all my guns). It just makes cleaning easier as leading is much less of an issue.

For two legged defense I put 158gr Federal Hydra-Shoks in it. Recoil is more but barely. It's still a pleasure to shoot.

For four legged defense I stuff 180gr hard cast lead flat points from Buffalo Bore. These are stout. The recoil is very noticeably increased but still very manageable and I don't find it uncomfortable. That being said, some of my friends that have fired this round through the gun say they don't like it at all.

It's a S&W L frame 686.....you're not going to shoot any factory loads in it that are going to over stress the gun. Shoot what is comfortable for you and don't give it another thought.

If you are talking reloads....that may be a different issue. I've no experience loading .357's so someone else will have to chime in about safe limits.
 
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It is possible to accelerate the wear on a 686 by shooting very hot heavy handloads in large quantity, like the people using it for silhouettes, when they should just get a larger caliber.

In general, any SAAMI reload in .357 or .38 is fine for the 686. Just follow the manuals, not random internet loads.
With normal care, it will last as long as you do.
My 8" scoped 686 regular ammo is max loads of H110 over 158gr softpoints.
 
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If I were you I would just read up on “flame cutting” and make a decision there on that issue alone. Short of over doing hand loads or running a steady diet of Corbon or Buffalo Bore hot loads I don’t think you can wear out a 686.
 
I know alot of people like the 125 gn. but my preference is still the 158 gn especially in the K frames. Your L-frame will be more forgiving if you use the 125's it has a beefier forcing cone than the K frame.
 
Mr. Fahrenheit said:
Should I shoot the 125 grain over 158 grain? What about jacketed hollow points over soft points, any difference as per reducing the life of the barrel?

I only see myself putting maybe 200 rounds a month through the gun. But I've never shot such a hot round before and it's raising all these questions in my head.

Thanks for your time.
Click to expand...

I would suggest you shoot standard pressure 158 gr lead SWC @ the range. This is generally a very accurate mild recoiling load that won't beat up you or your weapon unduly. (stay away from the 125's) Experiment with different brands of THAT load. Your weapon may prefer one over the other. Once your weapon is dialed in with that weight bullet, you can switch to a 158gr JSWCHP for self defense or 158gr hard cast solids for hunting in situations where you need to penetrate and smash bone (wild boar). At 200 rounds a month your 686 will outlast you.......
 
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one eye joe said:
I would suggest you shoot standard pressure 158 gr lead SWC @ the range. This is generally a very accurate mild recoiling load that won't beat up you or your weapon unduly. (stay away from the 125's) Experiment with different brands of THAT load. Your weapon may prefer one over the other. Once your weapon is dialed in with that weight bullet, you can switch to a 158gr JSWCHP for self defense or 158gr hard cast solids for hunting in situations where you need to penetrate and smash bone (wild boar). At 200 rounds a month your 686 will outlast you.......
Click to expand...

+1 on what he said as the L frame is a well built 357 magnum but the hotter 125 grain rounds do stress the action and forcing cone more then the 158 grain bullets.
 
+1 to what "one eye joe" and "fyimo" said.

The 686 is a strong platform and capable of shooting most, if not all, commercially available .357mag ammo, but for target practice or plinking, why abuse yourself or your gun. :D

I have a 6 shot 686 (No dash - ca. 1984) that I put some hot loads through occasionally, but most of the time I feed it standard .357mag loads, 38spl +P or 38spl 158gr LSWC or LRN so I can put more lead downrange without feeling it the next day.

For HD, it is loaded with Federal 38G (158gr LSWCHP) like all my other .38spl and .357mag revolvers.
 
My favorite in all .357s K,L &N is the 158 SJHP (the loading I shoot at the moment is Georgia Arms). I get the best accuracy, normal recoil and don't have to worry about abusing the gun. Other than that I just don't have the faith in the 125s as I do in the 150+ loadings, I'm a heavy bullet guy.
 
What is the barrel length of your 686+?

That can make a difference (though not in wear and tear) in how much expansion you can expect for "social use". I have the "hi cap" 686's in 2.5" and 4" and for the 2.5" my "social" load is the EXCELLENT Speer 135 grain Gold Dot JHP .38+p. Super easy to shoot, lower recoil and blast than a full bore mag, and the expansion tests I've seen put it around .50 cal plus on impact with completely uniform expansion. Nothing to sneeze at on the receiving end as it's a 1/2 inch spinning razor blade in use. This load was specically designed for snubs and has an excellent reputation.

For the 4" I tend to go with 125 grain, JHP's for carry (whatever brand I can find the cheapest) and for range work I have a bulk I'm still working on with 130 grain FMJ from Sellier. These are super easy to clean up after as are most FMJ loads. The 125 grainers have the most detailed analysis as far as "street use" and are solid performers in any brand imo. While no handgun is 100% reliable as a "one shot stopper", this one is pretty darn good in that catagory. They do tend to be a lil wilder in both blast and recoil imo but nothing that your 686 can't handle and not unpleasant by any standard. Don't hunt with them so I can't really address 180 grain loadings but the previous post made sense to me on that topic.

I also shoot a LOT of .38 specials on range work too when I'm feeling like pounding out LOTS of rounds. Relatively inexpensive way to practice and it's one of the true values of the .357 revolvers.

For wear and tear"..."forgetaboutit". NO issues there at all unless you're going to be the next Jerry Miculek or something and plan on shooting about a bazillion rounds per year. At 200 rounds per month, ANY loading, as noted the gun will probably outlast you.

Hope this helps but...how about a pic of that puppy? :)
 
Like others have said: A 686 can pretty well handle any factory loads. For self-defense, I carry the Federal 125 grain JHP (357B) in my 686. It definitely has noise & recoil, but it has been proven to be a very effective round.
 
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