Flitz caused disastrous results on blue 29-10...

peppercorn · Dec 1, 2011

I've used Flitz polish for years on all of my blued S&Ws with excellent results, until today.
I recently acquired a brand new Model 29 'Classic' 4 inch magnum that just doesn't look nearly as good as my 29-2 or my 19, finish wise. In that I mean the bluing is just not as shiny/deep or glossy.
Since I have always had great success with Flitz in shining up the old 29 and more recently restoring/removing minor 'marks' on the model 19 I set about trying it on a test spot under the grips of the new gun.
It immediately turned dull, really dull. I didn't even get to the polishing action, I just wiped it off and was left with this ugly dull spot.

A call to S&W revealed that the bluing process they use now is called pentrating bluing vs the carbona bluing they used years ago. I suppose this is the reason my results were opposite of my past experience with this product.
It does leave me wondering just what is safe to polish the bluing on these new guns, if anything?

While I was on the phone with the rep I told her how displeased I am with the overall finish of this new gun and she said that they would gladly refinish it if I would like them to. She did tell me that it would never be like the 'old' finish but that I should be satisfied with the finish on a new gun.
The time estimate is 8 weeks for what it's worth. I am more of a shooter than a looker anyway. That being said I do like to have things straight from the get go so I may take them up on the offer.

Steve_NEPhila · Dec 1, 2011

You can have another company refinish the revolver in an "older style" of blueing than what S&W currently offers, if you were so inclined. However, there seems to be some slight confusion on your part about blued finishes and polishing.

If you apply any abrasive to a blued finish it will wear the finish and make it dull. The trick to a really shiny and fantastic blued finish is to polish the metal before the blue process. You have it in reverse, yet you were smart to try it on a hidden area of the revolver.

Sure, the more modern approach to finishes may not be as pretty as the older stuff, yet it is more durable. I like deeply blued guns from day past, yet when I reach for a range/field/defense revolver I want it to be all business. I actually appreciate a nice matte black/blue finish for those occasions...

Ashlander · Dec 1, 2011

My goodness, that's depressing. Shell out big bucks for a "classic" that is anything but.

Bluelou · Dec 1, 2011

Why would you do that. Flits never heard of such a thing on a gun.

peppercorn · Dec 1, 2011

'Confused'? ....like I said before, "I've used Flitz polish for years on all of my blued S&Ws with excellent results" It is a product developed for this application. However, it seems to be incompatible with the 'new', 'more durable' finish.

Snakefoot · Dec 1, 2011

peppercorn said:
'Confused'? ....like I said before, "I've used Flitz polish for years on all of my blued S&Ws with excellent results" It is a product developed for this application. However, it seems to be incompatible with the 'new', 'more durable' finish.

Well, if that is the case, then so be it, I suppose.

You've provided an invaluable bit of information for those with "classic" series Revolvers who are scouring Google just before they flitz the whole damn thing on a buffing wheel.

Me, I've never been a fan of using anything abrasive, even mildly so, like Flitz around any of my firearms. I try not to worry much about surface scratches and marks...my holsters make plenty of those!

bigtubby · Dec 1, 2011

I have never had a problem using Flitz but don't have any of the newer guns thanks for the heads up.
And no peppercorn your not confused on how to polish a gun that is the way I have done it for years and on the older guns it works magic.

gumpys · Dec 1, 2011

For guns with blue finish and can use on all your wood stocks as well, go with reinssance wax.
Eric

JoeHatley · Dec 1, 2011

what is safe to polish the bluing on these new guns, if anything?

ProShot has a Metal Care Cloth that works great on all blued guns.

Specialty Cloths

I've used it for years and love it. It makes the blue really look great and will NOT harm it. As a plus, it makes the gun easier to clean each time it's used.

Helderberg · Dec 1, 2011

Sorry to hear about your situation but glad for you that you tried it in a hidden spot.
Is it OK to use Flitz on stainless/alloy guns? I have a Airweight and would like to know if it is good or is something better?
Did not mean to steal the post, just thought of it as I was reading your's.
Be safe, Frank.

GLL · Dec 1, 2011

Flitz works well for me on nickel !
I have also used it on newer blued 70's vintage guns as well.
Do you have any photos of your results on the "classic"?

Jerry

1 old 0311 · Dec 1, 2011

I will NEVER use Flitz, or SemiChrome on blue. Mothers is more 'gentle' and gives a clean, uniform finish.

tacreload · Dec 1, 2011

Flitz makes two products,polish and gun wax.As a rule anything with the word "polish"attached to it has some sort of abrasive in it.I have used the Flitz polish on my stainless guns and the wax on my blued guns with great results.I don't think anything with an abrasive in it"polish"should ever be used on a blued weapon.Kinda like using fine sandpaper on your car's finish.Just my opinion.

TAROMAN · Dec 1, 2011

In resurrecting my old M&P, the bluing was "frosted" in many areas with light rusty grime. I soaked it in Kroil, then polished with bronze wool. A final VERY LIGHT polishing with Mother's and a microfiber cloth really brought back the glow on that one. I would consider this to be a "one time" job on a neglected finish. After that, just wax.

steamloco76 · Dec 1, 2011

Like the original poster, I too have used Flitz Polish on many blued guns to bring the finish back to a super bright shine. No problems at all on any make of gun made up through the 1990's.
I only use it ONCE per gun, then I keep them waxed with either Flitz Gun Wax or Johnson's Paste wax which are both non abrasive.

The two newest blued S&W's I have were both made in 2002-2005 and the barrels and cylinders polished nicely with Flitz, however when I tested a spot on the frames, they didn't shine any more than they had, so I just waxed them. The blue is slightly darker on the frames of both those guns.

By the way, I've seen a couple almost new blued Classic Series S&W revolvers that had spots and dulling all over. Seems the new blue does not like some gun cleaning solvents either. Same on new Taurus blue.

Stainless steel polishes well with either Flitz or the much less expensive Mother's Mag Wheel Polish. You can't use anything on the new 'spray finished' aluminum and Scandium frame S&Ws. Darn urethane matte lacquer is thin, dull and easily damaged.

The moral of the story- always test any product on a small area for undesired results.

markeb · Dec 1, 2011

peppercorn, I have used Flitz for several years on stainless and blued (older ones) for several years, and have had no problems. Thanks for the heads up on the newer models. I have recently cleaned a 27-3 that had surface rust with Flitz, followed by Rem wax, and looks damn good.

peppercorn · Dec 1, 2011

All right guys, thanks for the input.
Also, just to clarify, I never even rubbed the affected area. I simply put some flitz on it and wiped it off. So, no 'polishing' whatsoever was done.

And, like some of you mentioned, Flitz is a polish and, knowing this to be true, I have always used it as a one time treatment and followed up with wax on my blued guns.

I do not have a picture of the area at the moment. I will say it created a greyish hue. I waxed over the area, which did nothing for my problem.

GLL, krhmkes and markeb,
Those guns look great!

markeb,
I have restored many a knives and guns that had surface rust using Flitz. There is definately a compatability issue with this new gun however.

amazingflapjack · Dec 1, 2011

Flitz..

for metal, plastic, and fiberglass is the product I have, and on the back it says: contains NO ammonia or Abrasives. Safely cleans polishes & protects brass, copper, ncikel, silverplate, gold, bronze, chrome, sterling, stainless steel, aluminum, anodized aluminum, pewter, factory gun bluing, painted surfaces. Removes: tarnish, rust, water stains, oxidation, finger prints&graffiti. Not for elactroplate.

It sounds like the New Bluing is only better for the New S&W. Flapjack.

peppercorn · Dec 1, 2011

amazingflapjack said:
for metal, plastic, and fiberglass is the product I have, and on the back it says: contains NO ammonia or Abrasives. Safely cleans polishes & protects brass, copper, ncikel, silverplate, gold, bronze, chrome, sterling, stainless steel, aluminum, anodized aluminum, pewter, factory gun bluing, painted surfaces. Removes: tarnish, rust, water stains, oxidation, finger prints&graffiti. Not for elactroplate.

It sounds like the New Bluing is only better for the New S&W. Flapjack.

Exactly, and mine reads the same as yours.

pwhphd · Dec 1, 2011

JoeHatley

Proshot specialty cloths are available in 5 types. Which type did you have the best results? Do you favor them over Rem Wax? I usually use Rem Wax, but I would like to try to lift small discolorations from vintgage European pistols.

Flitz caused disastrous results on blue 29-10...

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