I've used Flitz polish for years on all of my blued S&Ws with excellent results, until today.
I recently acquired a brand new Model 29 'Classic' 4 inch magnum that just doesn't look nearly as good as my 29-2 or my 19, finish wise. In that I mean the bluing is just not as shiny/deep or glossy.
Since I have always had great success with Flitz in shining up the old 29 and more recently restoring/removing minor 'marks' on the model 19 I set about trying it on a test spot under the grips of the new gun.
It immediately turned dull, really dull. I didn't even get to the polishing action, I just wiped it off and was left with this ugly dull spot.

A call to S&W revealed that the bluing process they use now is called pentrating bluing vs the carbona bluing they used years ago. I suppose this is the reason my results were opposite of my past experience with this product.
It does leave me wondering just what is safe to polish the bluing on these new guns, if anything?

While I was on the phone with the rep I told her how displeased I am with the overall finish of this new gun and she said that they would gladly refinish it if I would like them to. She did tell me that it would never be like the 'old' finish but that I should be satisfied with the finish on a new gun.
The time estimate is 8 weeks for what it's worth. I am more of a shooter than a looker anyway. That being said I do like to have things straight from the get go so I may take them up on the offer.

You can have another company refinish the revolver in an "older style" of blueing than what S&W currently offers, if you were so inclined. However, there seems to be some slight confusion on your part about blued finishes and polishing.

If you apply any abrasive to a blued finish it will wear the finish and make it dull. The trick to a really shiny and fantastic blued finish is to polish the metal before the blue process. You have it in reverse, yet you were smart to try it on a hidden area of the revolver.

Sure, the more modern approach to finishes may not be as pretty as the older stuff, yet it is more durable. I like deeply blued guns from day past, yet when I reach for a range/field/defense revolver I want it to be all business. I actually appreciate a nice matte black/blue finish for those occasions...

My goodness, that's depressing. Shell out big bucks for a "classic" that is anything but.

Why would you do that. Flits never heard of such a thing on a gun.

'Confused'? ....like I said before, "I've used Flitz polish for years on all of my blued S&Ws with excellent results" It is a product developed for this application. However, it seems to be incompatible with the 'new', 'more durable' finish.

Well, if that is the case, then so be it, I suppose.

You've provided an invaluable bit of information for those with "classic" series Revolvers who are scouring Google just before they flitz the whole damn thing on a buffing wheel.

Me, I've never been a fan of using anything abrasive, even mildly so, like Flitz around any of my firearms. I try not to worry much about surface scratches and marks...my holsters make plenty of those!

I have never had a problem using Flitz but don't have any of the newer guns thanks for the heads up.
And no peppercorn your not confused on how to polish a gun that is the way I have done it for years and on the older guns it works magic.

For guns with blue finish and can use on all your wood stocks as well, go with reinssance wax.
Eric

ProShot has a Metal Care Cloth that works great on all blued guns.

Specialty Cloths

I've used it for years and love it. It makes the blue really look great and will NOT harm it. As a plus, it makes the gun easier to clean each time it's used.

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Go NRA

Sorry to hear about your situation but glad for you that you tried it in a hidden spot.
Is it OK to use Flitz on stainless/alloy guns? I have a Airweight and would like to know if it is good or is something better?
Did not mean to steal the post, just thought of it as I was reading your's.
Be safe, Frank.

Flitz works well for me on nickel !
I have also used it on newer blued 70's vintage guns as well.
Do you have any photos of your results on the "classic"?

Jerry

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.38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

I will NEVER use Flitz, or SemiChrome on blue. Mothers is more 'gentle' and gives a clean, uniform finish.

Flitz makes two products,polish and gun wax.As a rule anything with the word "polish"attached to it has some sort of abrasive in it.I have used the Flitz polish on my stainless guns and the wax on my blued guns with great results.I don't think anything with an abrasive in it"polish"should ever be used on a blued weapon.Kinda like using fine sandpaper on your car's finish.Just my opinion.

In resurrecting my old M&P, the bluing was "frosted" in many areas with light rusty grime. I soaked it in Kroil, then polished with bronze wool. A final VERY LIGHT polishing with Mother's and a microfiber cloth really brought back the glow on that one. I would consider this to be a "one time" job on a neglected finish. After that, just wax.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Like the original poster, I too have used Flitz Polish on many blued guns to bring the finish back to a super bright shine. No problems at all on any make of gun made up through the 1990's.
I only use it ONCE per gun, then I keep them waxed with either Flitz Gun Wax or Johnson's Paste wax which are both non abrasive.

The two newest blued S&W's I have were both made in 2002-2005 and the barrels and cylinders polished nicely with Flitz, however when I tested a spot on the frames, they didn't shine any more than they had, so I just waxed them. The blue is slightly darker on the frames of both those guns.

By the way, I've seen a couple almost new blued Classic Series S&W revolvers that had spots and dulling all over. Seems the new blue does not like some gun cleaning solvents either. Same on new Taurus blue.

Stainless steel polishes well with either Flitz or the much less expensive Mother's Mag Wheel Polish. You can't use anything on the new 'spray finished' aluminum and Scandium frame S&Ws. Darn urethane matte lacquer is thin, dull and easily damaged.

The moral of the story- always test any product on a small area for undesired results.

peppercorn, I have used Flitz for several years on stainless and blued (older ones) for several years, and have had no problems. Thanks for the heads up on the newer models. I have recently cleaned a 27-3 that had surface rust with Flitz, followed by Rem wax, and looks damn good.

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All right guys, thanks for the input.
Also, just to clarify, I never even rubbed the affected area. I simply put some flitz on it and wiped it off. So, no 'polishing' whatsoever was done.

And, like some of you mentioned, Flitz is a polish and, knowing this to be true, I have always used it as a one time treatment and followed up with wax on my blued guns.

I do not have a picture of the area at the moment. I will say it created a greyish hue. I waxed over the area, which did nothing for my problem.

GLL, krhmkes and markeb,
Those guns look great!

markeb,
I have restored many a knives and guns that had surface rust using Flitz. There is definately a compatability issue with this new gun however.

for metal, plastic, and fiberglass is the product I have, and on the back it says: contains NO ammonia or Abrasives. Safely cleans polishes & protects brass, copper, ncikel, silverplate, gold, bronze, chrome, sterling, stainless steel, aluminum, anodized aluminum, pewter, factory gun bluing, painted surfaces. Removes: tarnish, rust, water stains, oxidation, finger prints&graffiti. Not for elactroplate.

It sounds like the New Bluing is only better for the New S&W. Flapjack.

Exactly, and mine reads the same as yours.

Proshot specialty cloths are available in 5 types. Which type did you have the best results? Do you favor them over Rem Wax? I usually use Rem Wax, but I would like to try to lift small discolorations from vintgage European pistols.

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Laus Deo

Here is the MSDS for Flitz.........

http://www.flitz.com/images/document...lish_PASTE.pdf

It contains oil , ammonia , and Aluminum Oxide.

Aluminum Oxide in grit form is an abrasive used on sandpaper.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Note that the uses for FLITZ on their website specifies
Factory Hot Gun Bluing, not the method S&W now uses.

Flitz Metal, Plastic, & Fiberglass Polish

Always read the directions before you use any chemical product.

.

Flitz polish contains a very fine abrasive similar to jewelers rouge. That is what helps clean and polish the surface. If you use it on a plastic motorcycle windshield or headlight cover the fine abrasives will actually remove the small scuffs and scratches. Flitz also makes a product called Flitz Wax that has a high carnuba content and no abrasive. It is always a wise move to test a hidden area first.

haven't gotten around to using any of these products yet, but did actually BUY some Flitz polish a while back....it resides unused so far.

NONE of the local dealers within 50 miles of me carry Renaissance Wax, I've asked. And I'm unwilling to pony up the shipping charges in addition to the on-line prices.

While the paste wax seems like a good idea, call me a Luddite as I just have not been able to bring myself to applying any to my ballistic steel friends....

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Dum vivimus Vivamas

I use Renaissance wax for my blued guns. It makes the finish look almost liquid. It is a little spendy but only a very little is needed per application. It is well worth the investment. It even seems to repel fingerprints. I love the stuff. Some have said it smells to much like shoe polish, but after four years in the military police spit shining my boots, I don't mind a bit.

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Endeavor to persevere. <><

I say shell out big bucks and buy a classic, not a "classic."

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Centennial Every Day

Flitz is a fantastic product for use on stainless, chrome and nickel.
Since bluing is actually a form of oxidation, Flitz will work real well if you want it removed from wahtever surface it covers.
'Penetration' bluing and Flitz don't mix.
The brownish residue on your rag is a kind of red flag.
Don

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OGCA Life
NRA Life

You may wish to consider purchasing some S.E. Johnson Floor Paste Wax from your local big box hardware store. I think it costs around $8 for a can that will last several lifetimes.

If you decide you like the looks after using S.E. Johson, you may decide you want to pony up for the Renaissance Wax.

The Metal Care Cloth is the one I use on blued guns. It will remove surface rust and tarnish.

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Go NRA

Because it relates to this thread, here's another from about a month ago....

Flitz

Yep! I ONLY use Flitz on my stainless S&W's. Glad you did it in a unnoticable area, versus on the sideplate or barrel!

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V/R
Roger / SG

Thank you, not trying to hijack the thread but the above advice might come in handy this spring. Also, be careful using an ultra sonic cleaner. I bought a rough 28 and apparently it had been re-blued/cold blued in its long life.
The seller told me it was rough the price was very good (and he was very pleasant) so no problems there. But, me being the Brainiac I am; I decided to clean it up using my U.S. cleaner and Hornady brass cleaner. It cleaned it very well, so well it removed all but what was left of the original Matte finish. Oh well, lesson learned and after a re-blue (matte black) it looks good now (and shoots like a dream.

This thread got me thinking, how many previous owners polished one time only could add up. Some people use flitz as a reblue test. They look for rust stain on the rag as proof it's original. Me, I wouldn't do it to mine, but to each his own. I lost a friend once when I was asked how to remove the rings from the chamber mouth of a revolver. We were talking s.s. I never thought he was going to use it on a blued gun. That was a lead removal cloth I told him about. Wiped out the rings the bluing and the friendship.

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A republic if you can keep it

Jerry, those grips (and revolvers) are so pretty that I'm speechless. Is that Bird's Eye maple? Where did you get those beautiful stocks?

Flitz is great on my cymbals but I've never thought to try it on any of my shootin' arns. Guess it's a good thing.

While we're on the subject, I have a tube of Gunbrite that I've never tried. Anybody have any experience with it?

Renaissance Wax is a great product for protecting many types of sensitive materials. It's ~$16/60mL at best - as low as $27/200 mL shipped from AMAZON. I need to restock - my little jar is nearly half full - and I've only had it a quarter of a century! I may try it on my Governor... it's black coated finish splotched the first time I cleaned it with Hoppes #9 (I had to get Hoppes Elite just for it.). Flitz/Semichrome polish will brighten up SS - don't use either on blued finishes. I believe S&W had to go out of the house for the deep blued finish of the 2000-2002 Heritage series. My 2003 vintage 10-11 has a blackish finish - not up to the depth/sheen of my 2001 Heritage 24 - it was gorgeous, the 10 is durable!

Stainz

I save the used soft rags with the Simi chrome polish or the fits on them. This used polish has less bite as I have stated before. I use these on my used and older blued finishes that have lost there luster. For my new blues guns I'm thinking of using a new car polish that has no bite it's for clear coat finishes. I do not like oiling up the guns for storage there has to be a better more modern way. I think using a safe polish is the way to keep moisture off of them.

Lately I have tried a silicone gun protectant that seems ok so far but I think that a polish could do even better.

For me the lesson to be learned from this post is not about Flitz but rather, S&W's new "Classic" series isn't!

Dave

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RSVN '69-'71
PCSD (Ret)

I've never used the Flitz polish on a blued gun other than to remove rust spots.

I was always told that (read that) it'll eat the finish right off a blued gun... And I assure you it will do just that on rust spots...right down to the metal. I've had to remove a couple spots on guns I acquired, then I'd use casey-birchwood blueing pen to touch up the spot. It's one of those 'best-worst options'; like waking up and picking out your cleanest dirty shirt

(or is that birchwood-casey...whatever...)

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But then, what do I know?

This comes as absolutely NO surprise to me.

The type of finish you seek does not come in a $9.00 squeeze type toothpaste tube or a $42.00 two-pound tub.

If you want the old style finish, you can have it, direct from S&W. Send in your revolver and $275.00 (plus shipping) and ask the Performance Center for their "high bright" blue finish.

The "Classic" Line of revolvers will never be exactly like the older models, such as the 29-2. They are similar, yes, but they lack certain features such as that time consuming high polish. It is a good thing, too. None of the naysayers would pay the extra $300.00 for the finish, and most are happy with the current bluing. Add another $300.00 for a hand tuned action and several hundred more for pinning, recessing, hand fitting of fancy wood stocks, etc., and all of a sudden, S&W is out of business because no one would pay $2,500.00 or more for such a revolver. That is just a fact of life.

S&W learned this when they have offered deluxe revolvers, such as the original ".357" Magnum for the then whopping sum of around $60.00. The model did not go flying out the door, and the same thing would happen with an equivalent price in today's dollars.

Talk about eye candy. I am in love!