First off... The lock removal and installation of the plug was simple and straight forward. With a little help from a youtube video and a bit of "figgerin' out" of my own, it's in and looks much better...



Now a question... Do I have an extra part besides from what I removed and the plug replaced? I found this on my work mat after I popped the side plate off. Not sure if it came from the gun or was already there on the mat.



Seems to be aluminum of some type of alloy but not steel. Did this come from my gun? If so... Where? I've got the side plate off right now and can't see anyplace that's missing a piece.

Finally... This part that the pen is pointed at... Is this the trigger/hammer block? This is to remain installed, correct?



Function question...

After I buttoned everything back up, I took (8) primed cases and loaded them up. Upon firing them, the cylinder got very hard to turn in double action due to primers being pushed back against the frame where the firing pin is located. I tried this with and without the moon clip. Is this normal? Will it function correctly with "real" loaded rounds rather than just cases and primers?

That would appear to be the stock pin from the base of the grip, but it is attached in picture #1.

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M66, M&P 360, 642, M85 UL/Ti

Yes, trigger/hammer block stays. I have a guess on the pin but will hold out for the more seasoned members to chime in.

That was my first thought as well. However, that pin is still there AND it's a roll pin with quite a good bit of friction attaching it to the grip mount.

Goofy design on the hammer block device. I'm not sure in the event of a drop that it would do any good. But... What do I know. I'm just the guy behind the trigger.

If you're wondering if it could be the "plunger" on the cylinder lock... Nope. I just checked it and it's still there. I'm starting to think it was something on the mat from a earlier project. BUT... If I'm wrong, PLEASE set me straight.

I'm no expert, but looking inside any of my revolvers, there does not appear to be any pins missing.

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M66, M&P 360, 642, M85 UL/Ti

My guess is that it slides into the rebound slide spring.

Ummm... What? Rebound slide spring?

The cases being pushed back may be due to a lack of pressure holding the brass against the inside of the cylinder, like it would in a normal loaded round. If you didn't mess with anything but the lock nothing should have changed in the chamber areas. I have a guess on the pin; One of my PC guns has a lanyard pin that rides crossways in the bottom of the backstrap. If there's an empty hole there it may be where it's from. Nice gun, some day I may have to get one.....

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Tom
"Panem et Circenses"

It's to the left of the trigger in this pic. Notice the pin partially in the spring.

http://www.realguns.com/images/trggerremvlw.jpg

I think we have a winner!!! There is in fact a empty hole to the rear of the grip mount (captive nut). And wouldn't ya know, that lil' pin is a PERFECT fit!!!

Into the little baggy that holds the removed lock parts and on to re-re-assembly. THEN... It's time for a full load test out back.

The neighbors are gonna hate me.......AGAIN!

Many thanks for the help!!! You saved me a sleepless night of internet searching.

It is normal to experience what you did when firing primed cases. When you "shoot" them, the primers tend to back out of the case a smidge - and sometimes its enough to bind up the cylinder.

I believe that's the lanyard pin. It visible on the back strap. It gets trapped in there when the grips are on. When you take the grips off, it just falls out!

Winner, winner, chicken dinner! It was for sure the lanyard pin!!

We all know full well any responsible "gun guy" really NEEDS to function test after every mod, however small..

RANGE TIME JUSTIFICATION!!!

After close to 100 rounds, nary a hiccup! Flawless operation with both full mags and down loaded plinkers. Even had a pair of autos with and even they functioned perfectly....

Imagine that.

Thanks again for the wisdom and allowing me to pick your collective brain.