New to revolvers... Best for pocket carry?

nickthedude

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Hi guys. I recently started looking at revolvers today and am overwhelmed by all the different models when it comes to the j-frame revolvers. I was wondering if any of you wanted to chime in with a good recommendation when it comes to pocket carry. I looked at a different thread and saw a lot of people seem to like 642 and 340? What about the Bodyguard? Ruger LCP? I am under the assumption that the J-frames and S&W in general have been around longest in the revolver market, so I assume they're the best option when it comes to revolvers. 357 or 38 special?
Like I said I'm clueless when it comes to revolvers and would love to be educated on them a little. I just can't tell the difference when it comes to all these models...
Thanks everyone!
Nick
 
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i have had this 442 for years. It is a pre +P model, so only regular 38 specials in this one. I think all the Js take +P now. I like the enclosed hammer on this model, snags less on clothes. I also have a LCP that I carry often, just because it is so small and light. I have 357s, but have never carried that round. 357 has lots of recoil and muzzel blast, and a little harder to control in a small, pocket handgun. I have ordered a new 60, hasn't arrived yet, so i must be changing my mind. 357 is a round the FBI called a "man stopper". anyone who has fired one knows it has plenty of muzzel energy, something like 2 1/2 times a 38 special! I would recommend a alloy J, either enclosed hammer or exposed. 642 is very nice. That is the silver version of the 442.
 

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642 no lock is a great choice for pocket carry.

For self-defense, load up with the old FBI Load, 38 Special Winchester 158 grain +P Lead Hollow Point or the Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel 38 Special, and you will be fine.
 
I don't think you can go wrong with any of them but you do need to practice with them. I use an IWB holster that I made so I hardly ever pocket carry but if I do it would be my M638 because it's so light weight and with the shrouded hammer I don't worry about it snagging on clothes.
As far as 38 or 357...a J frame 357 is a hand full to shoot, at least for some of us. 38 Specials will do the job as long as you can hit'em. MHO.
 
The 642 and the 640 are good guns. The BG seems to be a little more prone to defects. As far as the LCP goes, .380's are back up guns, not primary guns due to the marginal effectiveness of .380. If the pocket gun is a back up gun, any of the three I spoke about are good guns.

I'd also suggest you look at the Kahr CW 9, accurate, 7 rounds of 9mm, pocket sized and if you shop around, can be bought for under $350.00.

Good luck in your efforts.
 
Thanks guys. So the only difference between the 642 and 442 is the finish? This gun would be a backup to my M&P9c, Glock 23, or Glock 27, and it would also be ideal to throw in my pocket while I'm working (I cashier at a gas station).
 
And why the heck is the 340 so expensive? the 340PD on the S&W website is $1019.00...
 
642 all the way. The Centennial design is simply the best pocket and general concealed carry revolver ever designed. With that being said, I'm still jonesing for a steel Bodyguard or Chief's Special.
 
Centennial Every Day! :)

Stay away from the "new" Bodyguard plastic fantastic. You could give the Ruger LCR a try as you are new to revolvers and don't have any manual of arms habits (the LCR operates differently from the J frames). Airweights are good but stay away from the ultralights (AirLite, etc.) for a first gun. The 640 (stainless steel Centennial) is a good option for a first gun but a bit heavy for pocket carry (according to some). For caliber, .38 Special for sure.


The 642 is an excellent personal defense handgun given certain conditions!

Large rubber grips are a must for beginners.


Standard pressure ammo only until you get used to the recoil of the Airweight Centennial . That includes carry ammo too!


1000 dry fires as soon as possible. This will smooth up the action quite a bit and make trigger control much easier.


Practice firing at distances less than seven yards. Anything beyond that will likely frustrate you.


Use silhouette targets at the range. Airweights are fighting guns, not target guns! Trying to shoot small bullseye groups with an Airweight is not the mission of this handgun (although you might find it most rewarding later on).


A good pocket holster is a must! It's like peanut butter and jelly! They just go together so well. I recommend the Mika pocket holster more than any other.

I really try to stay with standard pressure ammo as I shoot it much better than +P in the Airweights.


Some to consider:


Remington 110gr SJHP
Winchester 110gr Silvertip
Federal 125gr Nyclad
Federal 110gr Personal Defense (HS)
Federal 148gr Gold Medal wadcutter
Hornady 110gr FTX
Speer 125gr Gold Dot


Buffalo Bore offers many different standard pressure loads but, due to their high velocity, they have just as much recoil as most +P loads.


Try those and see which one shoots best in your gun.
 
The 442/642 are excellent choices. If you are already a seasoned handgun shooter I see no reason not to get an Airlite. I have a 340sc .357 which would be fine loaded with standard pressure .38's or +P's. I carry medium velocity .357's in mine. The light .357 gives you a 2 caliber choice and is so light you hardly know it's in your pocket. The 340PD is a bit heavier due to the steel cylinder but is also a great choice. The Airlites are more expensive due to the scandium and titanium used which are expensive alloys and are more difficult to machine. Practice and familiarity with an Airlite erases all the concerns people seem to have with these guns. Either they have one and don't shoot it as often as they should or they don't have one and "assume" they are more difficult to shoot? Beats me. Of course as I always say what's good for one is not always good for everyone.
 
I can personally recommend AGAINST one of the new BG38 Bodyguards... Run away FAST!

I have one that is two months old and is heading back to S&W for the second time for repairs. These are not just cosmetic repairs, but failure of the action to function (locked up) and light primer strikes resulting in misfires.

S&W revolvers of the past have been good, but they'll never have me as a customer again after this one. I'll go to a company which makes handguns which actually work!

Edmo
 
My M&P360 and my wife's 642 both fill this roll exceptionally. If I was only going to pocket carry the M&P I would prefer the M&P340, but I like having the hammer.

Locks on both weapons disabled, respectively..

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Thanks guys. So the only difference between the 642 and 442 is the finish? This gun would be a backup to my M&P9c, Glock 23, or Glock 27, and it would also be ideal to throw in my pocket while I'm working (I cashier at a gas station).

OK, now you just changed the game be telling us you will carry your new little friend in your pocket while working at a gas station. That tells me you are not just looking for something to stop some thug who is harassing you with a club or shank, but your probabilities have risen where you could be facing an armed robbery situation where you life is on the line.

In this case I would carry the biggest gun you can handle efficiently period. That would not be a .380 in my opinion. Although I would recommend one of your Glocks or M&Ps, if they are out of the question I would carry a J Frame of your choice loaded with Speer 135 gr SB +Ps at a minimum. With that said, I would also recommend a lot of practice at multiple targets. You have to be really good with only five shots. Maybe you should reconsider that fine M&P 9C tucked in your waistband.
 
For carry, the 11oz scandium j frames.
If you plan to actually shoot it with serious defense loads...442 or 642.
I have all the above. The scandium guns are simply too light for plus p .38 or .357's. In your situation, as in most close-range defensive situations, the guy who shoots first, and gets a solid hit, usually wins. You have a better chance of accomplishing that with a J frame which can be fired from inside a jacket pocket if necessary, than with an autoloader. I'd consider the j frame my primary and for backup carry a 2nd j frame or an auto, though that would complicate your ammunition situation.
 
Wow. Thank you all. Tons of awesome info in this thread. I think the 642 sounds like a revolver that fits what I am looking for. I need a pistol that I can conceal well at work, since we aren't "technically" supposed to carry at work. I don't know if it differs by state, but where I live carrying there wouldn't be a legal issue, just a risk of discipline from the boss. With the area around my station getting increasingly worse, I look at it like my life is more important than my job. If I get the 642, which is rated for 38 special +p, can I shoot standard 38 special ammo, or does it have to be rated +p?
 
With the area around my station getting increasingly worse, I look at it like my life is more important than my job.

I'll make this more simple than the gun choice; get a new job! As you said your life >> job.

As for the many J-frames you can simplify it by breaking out each option group and comparing them instead of comparing each gun and its many options.

Frame material: steel, aluminum, scandium
Aluminum tends to be a good compromise in weight, corrosion resistance, cost.

Frame type: hammer, shrouded hammer, hammerless
Hammerless is often preferred for snag-free draws, and the expectation of DAO use.

The above two often lead folks to get the 642/442.

There are a few other things like sights (integral or otherwise) and grips (laser or not).

It's a lot easier to compare one option than it is to compare a gun with many options.
 
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