Does anyone use it? Can anyone offer up a testimonial?

So I have a 617-6 that I've having a hard time keeping clean. After only 30 rounds it starts getting hard to eject casings. I switched to copper plated Winchester 36 grain 22lr and that seems to help a little. When asking someone about ammo and the problems I've been having with carbon and lead build up, they told me to try FrogLube products.

FrogLube - Index

Just wondering if anyone has tried it and does it really help with fouling? Specifically with those dirty .22lr rounds.

Thanks,
Dave

Haven't used it myself, but there have been a number of threads on it.
Here is a good one: Frog Lube???

A search of Froglube will also bring up a bunch more too.

I use it on all my handguns and like it a lot. It keeps my 1911 and my Bodyguard running like a top and really makes cleaning easier. I had a stainless Ruger P95 and after a day of shooting the fouling on the barrel and slide would simply wipe right off. I'm hoping after a couple treatments on my new 627 Pro with the bead blast finish I get the same easy cleaning.

I have a close friend that uses it and he swears by it but it smells like bengay lol. He says it works great I just get nervous from the process of doing it.

After seeing all the positive reviews of Frog Lube on the net I picked up a small jar of the paste and treated 2 of my semi auto pistols, an M&P and a Model 39-2 as prescribed. I works OK but I have yet to see what all the fuss is about. The guns are no cleaner or dirtier after range session than they have been with using Ed's Red. It just reminds me of Thompson's Bore Butter and other BP cleaner lubes that have been around for centuries but at triple the cost. I'll use up what I have, but won't buy any more. Try it, you might like it, you may be unimpressed, but you should at least give it a fair shot.

Edit: I wont put it on my wheelguns because I don't wont a lube that solidifies at 65 degrees F seeping into the lockwork.

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

That was my concern. Thinking, Do I really want to heat up my gun with a hairdryer?

I may try it but I'm still kind of scared. I will check those past threads. Maybe I'll just use it for the bore and the chambers to cut down on the fouling but clean the rest of the gun the traditional way.

I bought a snubby 327 PC and I was concerned about using my favorite cleaner Hoppes No. 9 on it. (Hoppes apparently caused blistering of the clearcoat on a 642 owned.) I was not impressed with the cleaning ability of several brands of CLP I tried after S&W refinished the 642.

I had seen Froglube advertised and I was curious about it. It is advertised as being very safe for all gun finishes. A gun store I visited had the 4 oz bottle of Froglube liquid at an attractive price ($12.95) so I decided to try it. When I went to pay I was told it was priced incorrectly. They wanted $21.95 but they agreed to sell me the one I wanted for the marked price.

I've been using the Froglube on the 327 (titanium barrel and cylinder and black coated alloy frame) and another PC revolver, a 627 for a couple of months. It does seem to make cleaning easier than I expected and there is no sign of any damage to the gun finishes. I would probably continue to use Froglube on my non-SS guns but it seems overly expensive. I found the same bottle of 4oz liquid for $17.95 at Dillon but it still seems too expensive w/shipping. When my bottle of Froglube is almost used up, I'll be looking for another cleaner that is "finish safe".

I am in the process of switching to FL. Heating the gun up with a hair dryer (I actually use a heat gun) is no big deal. It isn't like you get it red hot, just warm. The instructions say you can set them in the sun, if I had any I would.

I rarely get them more than I can handle bare-handed without any discomfort.

I'm a chemical junkie - I tend to try anything that makes a claim. Frog Lub lives up to theirs.

I think any good clp or oil that contains any Teflon that will seep into the pores of the metal will do as good.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I use Frog Lube and like it - no revolvers yet though.

Regarding the shop that sold it to you at the incorrectly marked price - congrats to them - I worked in retail for many years and fortunately only had a couple of instances where that occurred. Generally it was that someone had not removed the sale price stickers from the items (back when we tagged every item with a price sticker) - and I would sell to that customer at the marked price and then go make sure there weren't anymore on the shelf marked incorrectly. About as often though customers saw a sign for one item and grabbed the item next to it and claimed either by misunderstanding or by deliberate attempt to pay the generic price for a brand name item and in those cases I would not sell the item for the incorrect price (in your case if the Frog Lube had been on a shelf next to another item and the sign on the shelf was for the item next to the Frog Lube for example).

I had one case where I was unable to leave the register myself and had no one available in the store to go and check but I was sure the price the customer claimed they had seen was less than half what the product was marked. Thinking on my feet, I told her that I am not compelled to sell her a product at a price that I believe is incorrect and by the same token she is not compelled to purchase a product at a price that she believed was incorrect and that when I got a chance I would go and check the item to see if I could determine if there was a problem. She agreed that was reasonable and did not purchase the item.

We did have cases where customers would peal the sticker off one item and apply it to another in order to buy the item at an incorrectly low price (this is why price stickers are often not a solid tag but have cuts or perforations in them, to make it difficult to peal them off without damaging them). And in one case I vividly recall - a coworker had just returned to the register after tagging an item and placing it on the shelf for a price over $5 when a customer place the item on the counter with a $0.99 sticker on it. Turns out that customer and her friend had been doing that to us for months.

Frog Lube was developed by a former navy SEAL officer for use on weapons in combat. They ship it to our service people in Afghanistan to use IN COMBAT in all sorts of weather. It WILL NOT congeal at 65 degrees F and lock up your weapon.

I have used it on several pistols and revolvers. Leaving a weapon out in the sunshine until it warms up seems to be the best way to apply it.

I am using it on a Browning Buckmark .22LR and that is running better with FL than when I was using Breakfree CLP, and it is easier to clean after shooting.

Frank

I've used froglube, it works fine, but I'm a bit usure of what all the fuss is about. I ended up switching to Slip 2000, also non-toxic and non-petroleum but doesn't have the cloying smell. As others have mentioned, any good product works well.

FrogLube has been well received in some circles, but I have not tried it. I have been very happy with the SLIP products, which work well, and have none of the Hazmat drawbacks of Hoppes. I admit that the smell of Hoppes brings a certain ambiance to the cleaning area, but it is dangerous. (I started wearing medical gloves while cleaning due to that stuff.) The various all in one products (CLP type stuff) simply do not do any of the functions well and a bit of research will probably convince you that it is not a good path to take for any purpose.

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NHI, 10-8.

The paste is a solid at room temperature and holds up a small craftsman screwdriver at 70 degrees. I have not put it in the freezer to see how hard it gets at zero.

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

I think the question is, Does it re-congeal after its been heated and applied? How about the liquid formula? I'm guessing that just stays a liquid.

I haven't had any trouble with it in temps less than 65*. If you do you are applying too much to your weapon.