Side Plate Screw Stuck

Riverbear

Riverbear

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I recently purchased a new 617. I want to remove the side plate. I removed the other two screws but the flathead screw under the grip is stuck. I used a hollow ground screwdriver and the tip bent. I tried a bit bigger screwdriver and all that did was mess up the screw slot a little. I’m afraid to try any more force because I don’t want to take a chance putting a scratch on the side plate.

With all my revolvers, I’ve never had this problem. I don’t know why S&W would torque a screw this tight. I’m guessing the threads are stripped but I don’t think I have the ability (or guts) to find out.

I guess I can send it to S&W but I was hoping someone has an idea on how to get the screw lose. Any thoughts?

Thanks
 
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Put a drop or two of Kroil (or whatever penetrating type oil you may have handy) on the screw, let it set in for a bit and insert the screwdriver into the slot and give it a short rap with something like another screwdriver handle to help the Kroil seep in deeper. If that doesn't work, it's time for heat, which can be applied with the tip of a soldering iron. Just touch the screw for a second to heat it and it should bust free.

If neither of these methods work, there are other tricks involving drill presses and such but if you don't have access to tools like that, it may be time for the gunsmith/factory.
 
My 617 had the same issue on the front/yoke screw.
An overnight Kroil soak as mentioned above.
After that, I secured the gun and placed a screwdriver into the offending screw's slot and gave it one good sharp rap with a hammer.
Finally, using a new fitted Brownell tip in a large driver handle, and keeping lots of pressure on it, broke it loose.
 
Some things to try, in no particular order except the first one -

- Cover the side plate in electrical tape while you're messing with it. Or rig up some simple piece of cardboard with a hole for the screw head. Something to protect things.

- Penetrating oil as mentioned, include some tapping, vibrating to help the oil seep/creep

- TIGHTEN the screw just a tiny bit to break it free

- Apply downward counter clockwise torque while you tap the end of the screwdriver (try it clockwise as well to break free). Kind of like an air impact wrench - torque + hammer.

- Heat as mentioned

- Cold. Freeze-it penetrating oil (autoparts store aerosol) or similar

- Heat-Cold-Heat alternating

- Lots of patience. Little bit of any of the above, every day for several days. Eventually it will break free (or break)

- Gunsmith or Machine Shop


Sgt Lumpy
 
Well I've torn the work shop, garage, and the shed apart and couldn't find a drop of penetrating oil. I'll run to the hardware store in the morning and get some and then try all the suggestions.

Thanks for the help.
 
Riverbear said:
I don’t know why S&W would torque a screw this tight.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I doubt S&W did this. Did you buy from a reputable dealer or an FFL with a table at a gun show? Some unscrupulous dealers have been known to shoot an in stock gun a little, then attempt a good cleaning before selling it "new." After all, they reason, it is going "off the books" for the first time, so it is new, right?

Well, I cannot tell you how many times I have seen revolvers at gun stores or gun shows, being sold as "new" by the dealer that clearly were not new.

I am not saying something didn't happen with the assembly of your revolver, but my guess is that it wasn't S&W.

The answer is to send it back to S&W before something is damaged requiring a replacement frame.
 
Along with the absolutely necessary penetrating oil, the rapping technique to momentarily take the forces off the threads really is an excellent approach.

Most motorcycle shops/mechanics rely on a hammer and an impact driver to break loose case screws.

As an old motorcyclist, I can tell you they belong in every cyclist's tool box. They might be useful for gunsmiths too.

800px-ImpactDriverWithBits.png


In case it is not obvious, the tool feels completely solid, but when you strike the blunt end with a good sized hammer, the force is applied to the screw shank and at the same time the tip rotates to loosen the screw. Most of these tools can be reversed, so be sure to choose the correct direction setting if you try this.

Alternatively, with a solid enough screw driver, a good fitting bit, and a vise to secure the pistol, you can apply torgue and while striking the end of the screw driver handle to loosen the screw.

I recently had to do that with the S&W grip screw in on a new J-frame. It worked, but leverage and willingness to strike pretty hard with something properly supporting the pistol are all important.

Best of luck, sir!
 
Do you really need to get in there? Is there an issue?

Good advice in the thread. Just remember not to force something and to go slowly. It's not an emergency. You can replace a screw but a scratched up sideplate is a harder issue to deal with.

The Brownell's catalog has a write up on dealing with stuck screws. Most of what it says has been covered here.

Someone alluded to a drill press--this is probably the best method. Create a jig to solidly hold the gun, chuck the bit in the press, and hand turn the chuck. Whatever method you use the bit needs to fit the slot like a piston.

If you don't have any penetrating oil, a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone is as good as or better than anything you'll get at the hardware store. People who deal with old machinery use it all the time with great effect, and especially if you already have ATF and acetone it's very inexpensive.

Of course the safest thing would be to send it to S&W.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
I went to an auto parts store this morning and got some penetrating oil. Sprayed it on the screw and then lightly tapped a screwdriver in the slot and let it sit for an hour or so. I then took a long screw driver to give me a bit of torque and slowly applied pressure and turned. The screw came out grudgingly. The screw had some stripped threads.

I tried the screw from the middle of the side plate in the hole and it will only go down about 75-80%.

I called S&W and they said that a new screw is on the way. I explained that the hole needs to have the threads chased and I would appreciate them telling me what the size tap is required. The technician said he did not have the engineerign info. He suggested that I try a replacement screw and that he would send me one in a 7-10 days. Then if that doesn't work he said I will have to send the gun to S&W for them to work on it.

Good grief it's was like dealing with the government. I obviously have doubts about the new screw fixing the problem and I don't look forward to sending it back to S&W but that's what I get for buying good guns.

Thanks everyone for your help.
 
You could always mike the original screw then with a screw pitch gauge, see how many threads per inch it has? First, you shouild of used a properly fitted screw driver.
Steve
 
You can chase the threads with a 5 x 44NF tap. You can get a tap for four or five bucks. Get a couple of them. The grip screw has the same pitch. A good tap wrench can cost $35.00, though.
 
Mike McLellan said:
You can chase the threads with a 5 x 44NF tap. You can get a tap for four or five bucks. Get a couple of them. The grip screw has the same pitch. A good tap wrench can cost $35.00, though.
Click to expand...


Amen BUT what ever you do, do NOT break off the tap. If you do it will NEVER come out. The tap is harder than most drill bits.
 
BJoe said:
Amen BUT what ever you do, do NOT break off the tap. If you do it will NEVER come out. The tap is harder than most drill bits.
Click to expand...
Whoa! That is a frightening thought. :eek:

Depending on how far down the screw the damaged threads are, it might be easier to shorten the original, damaged screw and install it lightly.

But . . . there I go with that half baked smithing stuff again. :o

However painful, it sounds like a trip to S&W may be in this pistol's future. :rolleyes:
 
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