I am having a 686-4 shipped to my local Cabela's and I have a couple questions.

1. Is it normal to have, what appears to be, a screw on the tip of the cylinder extractor rod? If you look very closely to the left, you can see what I'm talking about.

2. There appears to be some marks on the front of the cylinder. They're really small. What could cause these marks that are between the flutes?

Other than that I'm excited to inspect the revolver as soon as it gets here. I've been watching some videos about what to look for when purchasing a used revolver, so I feel well prepared when I get that phone call.

Attached Images

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The little screw is new to me -- never seen one. But it looks nicely done. It must be some sort of a tweak to the lock up.

The little marks between the flutes are burn marks where flashback from magnum loads have scorched the steel a bit. I have those on my 586.

Have fun.

My 686-4 does not have a screw like that. Be sure you get the opportunity to thoroughly inspect that mod. My question would be...what else is non-standard. Ask if you can talk to a gunsmith about it... get a 10 day return if possible.

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'I know nothing'.. Sgt. Shultz

Ashlander, when you say "tweak" does that mean it's not a standard part? Been modified? Also, can those burn marks be removed with cleaning or are they permanent?

Is that a screw, or just a glitch in a otherwise ****** jpg? Under high magnification, it looks like it might be the Loch Ness monster.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

Sir,

The burn marks will come off with cleaning solvent and a bronze brush. I can't help you re: the screw.

Regards,
Andy

I don't see it on mine.

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That looks like a -6 instead of a -4.

Does anyone have a -4 that was produced earlier in the line of the -4's? Maybe the screw was on the -3's and earlier. Just speculating.

Please get a better picture. I am not convinced there is a screw there but I see what you're talking about.

The marks on the front of the cylinder are probably not significant but, obviously, you should inspect it closer when you get the chance.

John
Scoundrel and Ne'er-Do-Well in Training

Okay well I was looking some more online and the blown up schematic of the parts for the 686-4 do not include a screw there.

I asked Cabela's for more pictures on the gun, but they said they couldn't do it. I'll just have to wait and see. I'll only be down $25 if I refuse to buy it because you don't have to pay FFL fees for transfer between big stores like Cabela's.

I think that the "screw" is either an anomaly in the low-res picture, or somebody gouged the knurling on the ejector rod, by using a pair of pliers to tighten/loosen the ejector rod.

The marks on the cylinder are from flash over. My 625-8PC has them, but it has thousands of rounds through it.

You have the grail gun of 686's, don't talk yourself out of it for a few minor blemishes. ENJOY!

Adios,

Pizza Bob

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NRA Benefactor Member

I have 686-3s and -4s and none have that screw on the ejector rod. Here's a -3.



And an auction photo of a -4 I bought years ago.



Ed

Lead: The scorch marks blasted through the bluing on my 586, but, as Snowman wrote, that won't not be a problem with the 686. Stainless steel is so much more forgiving than blued.

I agree that the picture needs to be better. It's not a screw. That particular part has some bevel to the edges, and I think the light makes it look like there's a slot. As for the powder burns, a little lead cloth will make it look just like new and not damage the finish.

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

I come down on the side of seeing no screw. Replacement ejector rods are relatively cheap. Even if it were a screw....it would have to be hollow to allow the front latching-bolt to engage the center-pin. I can see where some nut may cut a screwdriver slot in the face of the rod to tighten it....but that's a pretty stupid thing to do.

If you got that dash 4 for the right price....a replacement ejector rod would be a small price to pay to own a dash 4. There are numerous threads and posts here on the forum about how to remove/install an ejector rod. I think that's your worst case....if in fact it's even damaged at all.

The -4s are drilled and tapped for scope mounts and the holes filled with screws. When the screw does not entirely fill the hole and leaves an open spot on the inside of the topstrap, the debris from shooting bounces out of the screw hole and down onto the cylinder. A bronze brush and solvent, or the lead away cloth will remove all traces. I'm sorry, but I do not see any screw, just a normal extractor rod which may have been damaged by a pair of pliars, I cannot tell in the photo.

It is amazing to me that a company with the technical skills to build such fine machines cannot get grips to fit properly, or to find a screw that fills the holes in the top strap to a flush fit!!

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

It is amazing to me that a company with the technical skills to build such fine machines cannot get grips to fit properly, or to find a screw that fills the holes in the top strap to a flush fit!![/QUOTE]

I AGREE, NIGHTOWL. I HAVE NEVER SEEN A S&W REVOLVER WITH A SCREW IN THE EXTRACTOR ROD. THAT HAS TO BE MERELY A BAD IMAGE. I EVEN DOUBT THAT IT'S A MANGLED KNURLED END. WE SHALL SEE…

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I agree, it looks normal to me. I do not see a screw at all. Check it out good when it comes in and hopefully it will be everything that you hoped. If it is congratulations and enjoy it.

Maybe it's a Belt Mountain base pin for a Ruger Blackhawk.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

I'll third that. Messing with the jpeg a bit, it looks 100% normal to me. Perhaps just a little dirt in the grooves of the knurling. Should clean right off.

I get the point about the fill-screws for the scope mount, but I have never heard of any serious issues like my nutty neighbor had. He had a pre dash 4 and decided to drill-n-tap it for scope mounts. He made a mistake and drilled the holes in the wrong place and wound-up flame-cutting the front hole so badly...he could not get a screw to hold. He stuck the iron sight back on and "somebody" now owns a 686 with the top-strap almost cut into (probably is by now). Just a word of caution I suppose....don't try this at home. They make scope mounts for the early 686/586 that do not require the drilling of holes in the top-strap.