What parts wear out or break in Airweight J-Frames?

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Practical

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What parts break or wear out on J-Frame Airweights?

I have broken Transfer bar safeties, but what other parts break.

Can you buy a transfer bar safety or is this a return to S&W customer service case and are most breakdowns returns these days?
 
S&W's do not have transfer bars. Instead they have a hammer block safety. I've never seen one break. They are not under stress unless you drop your gun or there's an accidental blow to the hammer while it is at rest. I have seen Ruger transfer bars break, but that is another beast entirely.

I keep spare springs, screws, firing pins and locking blots w/ pins and springs around. Screws sometimes get buggered up and the locking bolt pins occasionally work their way out and launch the bolt and spring. None of these parts require a return to S&W. I install C&S extra length firing pins in my J-Frames so the original fp's are spares.

Best Regards,
ADP3
 
Practical said:
What parts break or wear out on J-Frame Airweights?

I have broken Transfer bar safeties, but what other parts break.

Can you buy a transfer bar safety or is this a return to S&W customer service case and are most breakdowns returns these days?
Click to expand...

As ADP3 said, S&W revolvers do not have transfer bar safeties (or for that matter transfer bars, or "safeties") but only a hammer block that prevents the the firing pin from being struck by the hammer--unless the trigger is pulled.

As for what wears out, it seems like when I read complaints of broken airweights, the common culprits are the hammer or trigger pin, both of which are not user serviceable and require a trip to the factory. Happily, these breakages seem to be few and far between, and there is a moderator on another gun forum who has an ongoing project called "break my j frame" or similar where he has over 6,000 rounds through his airweight.

As a general guideline, it seems if your revolver makes it past the break in phase, say 500-1000 rounds, without breaking, it's good to go for a good long while. Part breakages, if they are going to occur, generally happen early in an airweight's life it seems.
 
I purchased my first J frame used, a Model 38 flat latch, in the early '70s. It was carried as a back up to my duty weapon and now as an EDC in retirement. It goes to the range frequently & has never needed anything.
 
The only parts that have ever broken on my j-frames were broken or lost by me. If I keep any spare parts around it is because of my clumsiness not the guns short comings.
Go shoot it and enjoy, Frank.
 
My hammer block safety broke then. I was dry firing more than I was shooting and MOST the time used snap caps. It broke at the base of the 'ring' leaving the ring separated from the rod portion that extended up to the firing ping. My revolver action stopped working at that point.
 
Practical said:
My hammer block safety broke then. I was dry firing more than I was shooting and MOST the time used snap caps. It broke at the base of the 'ring' leaving the ring separated from the rod portion that extended up to the firing ping. My revolver action stopped working at that point.
Click to expand...

In a truly dire situation, like the end of the world or foreign invasion, S&W revolvers should remain functional if the hammer block is entirely removed. Not as safe, and not recommended, but functional.
 
Practical said:
My hammer block safety broke then. I was dry firing more than I was shooting and MOST the time used snap caps. It broke at the base of the 'ring' leaving the ring separated from the rod portion that extended up to the firing ping. My revolver action stopped working at that point.
Click to expand...
Fluke occurrence -- it happens, but as a rule there's nothing on a J-frame that one might likely expect to wear out or break under typical use over time.

At most, you might call "wear items" on these revolvers the hand (really the hand window, which can open slightly over use and negatively affect timing) which is correctable with a thicker hand replacement; and the yoke barrel, which can shorten from repeat impact and lead to endshake, and is correctable with shims or stretching.

I agree it doesn't hurt to have spare screws and springs around.
 
I'm glad the OP started this thread! I have been considering an Airweight for some time - but I'm concerned about how well they hold up. I have this (probably unfounded) fear of really needing to use it - and at that moment it has a weak carry-up and fires before a chamber is fully aligned with the barrel! I have seen reports of people having 1000's of rounds through theirs with no problems - but I still wonder if they're fully functional at this point, or just mostly functional...
 
I've seen new and inexperienced shooters get worn out in no time.

When I bought mine the frame crack was a big worry. Seems most occurred within 300 rounds...so I put a few hundred rounds through it right off.
 
I've been putting a mixture of standard .38 special and +P rounds every month for a year (so about 1200 rounds) now thru my 642-2 and no problems thus far. B>) Btw it's my edc.
 
GeoJelly said:
I'm glad the OP started this thread! I have been considering an Airweight for some time - but I'm concerned about how well they hold up. I have this (probably unfounded) fear of really needing to use it - and at that moment it has a weak carry-up and fires before a chamber is fully aligned with the barrel! I have seen reports of people having 1000's of rounds through theirs with no problems - but I still wonder if they're fully functional at this point, or just mostly functional...
Click to expand...
It's an understandable fear -- part rational and part not; we all have 'em to varying degrees about the tools we stake our lives on.

The practical remedy is regular use, assessment, maintenance and -- if needed -- repair of your firearm.

Knowing how your particular revolver behaves, learning simple function checks to perform periodically, keeping it cleaned and lubed, and taking it to the range and training courses all help build trust and competency, and reveal any issues that may need correction.

Rude surprises can happen, but they're greatly reduced in possibility with this regimen.
 
Here's something I was thinking about. What about the plastic 1/2 sphere cup that holds the end of the hammer spring and stirrup. It used to metal in older guns, but is now the only plastic part in the internals of a J frame. If it were to crack, would it not render the gun inoperable as there would be no tension on the hammer spring?
 
Smith & Wesson does not use a transfer bar. The part you are talking about is called the hammer block.

In my world, the only parts that are known to break on the Airweight J frame are your hand, from the punishing recoil, and your wallet, from the cost of shooting enough 38 Special ammo to make a difference.
 
While I can not say much for airweights my all steel model 36 has seen somewhere around 25 thousand rounds minimum in its life and has needed nothing. It will be the rare owner ( most of us here qualify I imagine) that can wear out one.
 
I had a model 36 for years. I wish I still had it. I don't believe you can wear one of them out. Now I've got a 442. Seems fine, but I don't trust it to the degree that I trusted the 36. There is probably no foundation for this distrust.
 
Thanks again to the OP and for the very useful comments. I've put an Airweight on my want list. It will only be fired enough to ensure it works - then carried but not frequently. Two neighbors carry aluminum J-frames - and are very happy with them. I handled the newer of the two and there is/was quite a bit of play in the cylinder. It's a DAO so I didn't want to dry fire it to see how lock-up was with the hand fully engaged. Thanks again ...
 
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