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How strong is a 1986 model 586 no dash ?

Old parchment

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Hello everybody. I'm new here so this has probly been asked before but I'm wondering how strong my 586 is. I reload and I don't load full house loads for just shooting out behind the house and playing as I call it but if if I need some real two legged bugger stoppers how much will she stand ? I've searched the Internet and some day it's a tank and some say it's a safe queen so I found this forum and I said mm hmmm these guys will know . It's a nickle plated 6 inch barell full lug that hasn't been sent back for the recall they had (I'm told they had one) so what say you one and all? Any help if appreciate it. I don't plan on pushing it cause I figure it's like a good car. Just cause it'll rin 120 don't mean you have to do it all the time. And thanks for listening at a green horn.
 
Welcome to the forum, Old parchment! :)

Your 586 is just as stout as any 686, which is the same pistol but in stainless steel. The 586/686 series of pistols were designed to have a lifetime of full-bore 357 Mag rounds run through them and are probably close to, if not equal to an N frame 357 in strength and durability. Yours should be able to digest any 357 round that isn't dangerously overpressured, just as my Model 27 pistols can digest. Saying that though, if your reloads are so overpressured that you need to whack the extractor with a wooden mallet to dump the cases out of the cylinder, then you aren't doing it any good. Just have fun, be safe, and shoot the snot out of your fine weapon.

BTW, I think the recall was about some of the L frame pistols having the primer flow back into the firing pin hole and jamming up the pistol. Some guns had the problem and some didn't. It is still covered as a free fix job by S&W if you want to send it off and have the fix applied. They even cover shipping both ways.

BTW, I am a sucker for a fine nickel plated revolver; I own 2 Model 27's in nickel. They are just so bright and shiny and the finish holds up much better than blue down here in soggy bootom Louisiana. ;) If you have any pictures of your 586, post them up. I haven't seen many nickel plated 586 pistols.
 
Your 586 will last you a lifetime if you take care of it. Even if you run some hot loads in it from time to time.

L frames are stout enough.
 
Welcome to the forum.
Have had a few 586/686, currently one with a long barrel. They are tough guns. In the 30 plus years of reloading have focused more on accuracy than a super hot load, figuring that if I ever have to defend or when I hunt, I want to hit the target. Not sure what your "play" load is but wonder why it would not work in a defense mode?
Enjoy your 586!
 
Thanks you guys. Yall made the old man feel good this morning and that don't happen often he he but back to the subject your right accuracy is most important for me too. I load a medium 38 special pressure load I geuss you'd call it. I'm not sure of the speed but it'll hot whatever you aim at if I do my part. I'll try to get pictures up cause I'd be proud to show it off a little . I might have to have more equipment than this I phone. Do I need a host as they say to load pictures from? Second I forgot my reloads just about fall back out of the cylinder with a slight push . I size to .358 and gas check too don't get no leading or anything just bang and fun. Thanks for the kind welcome.
 
I forgot too. My good friend in idaho was wondering if N frame grips would fit and I wasn't sure but I don't think they will seeing it was a K frame and N frame had a baby kinda thing ain't it ?
 
The N frame grips will not fit your 586, but the K frame grips do fit. That is going off what I've read here and many other places. I personally only own N frames except for a J frame I recently bought my wife.
 
That's kinda what I thought and also herd muddocktor. I wish tho that S and W would speak English tho lol. This is my first Smith and Wesson I've owned for awhile . I could kick myself for getting rid of two I had when I was young tho . One was either a trooper or highway patrol I can't remember and the other was a old 45 auto rim made back if I remember right in 1917 Probly worth a mint now so don't tell me my back hurts too much to kick myself any harder.
 
1935 , S&W begins offering the .357 Magnum mated to their .44 -45 caliber "N" frame ,
1955 S&W begins offering the .357 Magnum mated to a modified and strengthened "K" frame (previously K frames were used for .38 special and smaller loads) ,
The story goes that reports began to surface in the 70's that new lightweight fast moving .125 grain .357 loads could cause the Model 19 forcing cone to crack at its weak point at the 6 O clock position,
1980 S&W introduces the "L" frame .357 Magnum 586-686 series revolvers which are sized right between the "N and "K" frames.

Any 586/686 in the dash 2 or above revision has the new hammer nose bushing that will not lock up with the soft primers .
The dash 3 series has the new spring loaded yoke retention system.
 
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1935 , S&W begins offering the .357 Magnum mated to their .44 -45 caliber "N" frame ,
1955 S&W begins offering the .357 Magnum mated to a modified and strengthened "K" frame (previously K frames were used for .38 special and smaller loads) ,
The story goes that reports began to surface in the 70's that new lightweight fast moving .125 grain .357 loads could cause the Model 19 forcing cone to crack at its weak point at the 6 O clock position,
1980 S&W introduces the "L" frame .357 Magnum 586-686 series revolvers which are sized right between the "N and "K" frames.

Any 586/686 in the dash 2 or above revision has the new hammer nose bushing that will not lock up with the soft primers .
The dash 3 series has the new spring loaded yoke retention system.

The grip area of the L frame, however, is the same as the K frame, so they use the same grips.
 
In theory your M586 is actually STRONGER than the stainless M686. The carbon steel S&W uses to make revolvers has properties which are significantly superior to stainless steel in every category that matters, except corrosion resistance.
 
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Mr. Parchment ... As a new member, pay close attention to the expert advice you receive, now and in the future. As already noted multiple times, your 586 can withstand a steady diet of .38s for your lifetime and more, and will happily cycle in-spec .357s without issue. Any revolver can experience a structural failure with reloads that are too hot ... search for photos of destroyed frames courtesy of irresponsible handloads. Factory ammo and quality handloads will have no adverse affect on your 586.
 
I can't read this and not sing some praises about my 6" M-586 - what a great gun. Supremely accurate when I do my job. :D
 
I have a 4" 686 from 1981 my dad bought new. I lost count of how many rounds it's had but the gun is as accurate today as the day I joined my dad at the range to test it.

As everyone's said the L frames are stout and built to handle magnum loads (staying within reason of course-man can destroy anything man has built lol).
 
That's what I do when reloading. If it says do not exceed I ain't about too. I usually find that my most accurate load is between start and don't exceed and don't break your wrist either. I geuss its like a old time reloader said if the only bragging rights you have is your bullet got there faster you didn't get much out of it. Besides its more fun hitting what you aim at ain't it
 
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