Aluminum J Frame Cracks...

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deyomatic

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I have had my eye out for a J frame in either 357 or 38 special plus P. The most cost effective options are the new ones are the 442s, 438, etc. I am just concerned about the issues with the frames that have cracked. Is this something that SW has addressed or fixed?
Is there a manufacturing date after which you know you'd have gotten a good one?
Any other advice or options of other models in the neighborhood of $400 +/-?

Thanks so much. I want to shoot 38 special+P
 
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I think it's a dice roll (CS), but the vast majority are solid IMO.

I own 6, 2 ea. 637,642,638 of various vintages. I've shot them all a bunch, standard & +P and have no frame cracks.

A couple of them are approaching 500+ rounds.
 
Even current production aluminum framed guns can crack.

The current 442 and 642 are probably as good as any 38sp+p.

Buy a new one, then if it cracks S&W will replace it.

Cracks are very unlikely. People don't post all over the Internet that their J frame has not cracked.

There are no-lock current production 442 and 642's out there -- that would be my preference -- in fact, I have a 642 current model.
 
I bought my 642-1 about 4.5 years ago and have put ~1400 rounds through it, including over 500 rounds of +P. So far, no cracks (*knocks on wood*). I would like to add another J-frame or two, but unless I stumble on a really good deal on a no-dash 640 or a no-lock 649 in .38 Special it will likely end up being a current production no-lock 642. I'm not too worried about it. Most of the cracks I've read about showed up early and were likely the result of over-torquing the barrel during production (based on what I've read). I have yet to read about a current production airweight J-frame with a crack that S&W didn't replace under warranty.
 
To shoot .357 in an Airweight J-frame you need a gun with a titanium cylinder and a scandium alloy frame. I don't think you can get there with a straight aluminum frame and steel cylinder. If thy made such a model, I'm not aware of if.

I think even the +P marked Airweight J-frames, which do have aluminum frames, still have titanium cylinders. So, you should look for models with those features. If I'm mistaken, someone will correct me.
 
Cal44 said:
My 642 has a steel cylinder
Click to expand...

So the new ones are marked for "+P". That's good. There was a time when they were not. I shoot +P sparingly in my own M638-2, with the stronger J-Magnum frame (like all modern J-frames), aluminum frame (like your M642), but in the '90's when mine was made they did not mark them for +P.
 
Frame cracks are rare in alloy J frames, and for the same cost and careful shopping you can also buy a used steel J frame that is even less likely to do so. One of these will not be "+ P rated" but occasional use will not harm it.
 
I think you would be well served by a 642-1 in 38 Special +P.

With +P ammo they can be snappy yet are still controllable. I'm not sure I would want a lightweight J-frame in 357 Magnum. However, there are those out there who do.

What percentage of the lightweight J-frames crack? I'm sure S&W has that number hidden somewhere. Although one failure is too many if it is your gun, I think the number would be a small one when compared to number of 642s produced.

I've owned two 642-1s and now I own one. Of the two pictured, the top one had the trigger pivot pin break. Just like a cracked frame, sheared pins are generally a warranty replacement failure.

If your gun is one of those few which fails S&W will offer to replace it under warranty.

Edmo

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I know this may sound like a flippant response but it isn't meant to be. Another disclaimer: I've never owned a modern alloy J frame.

Pay what it takes to get a steel J frame in .357, then shoot whatever you want in it. Yes, they are heavier but you will quickly adjust to the extra weight. I carry it far more than any other gun and with a bit of practice they are uncannily accurate. I've had my 649-3 for about 20 years now. If something happened to it, I'd buy another asap.

BTW, the noise this gun makes with .357 loads is huge! I used this gun once to CCW qualify (standard factory ammo) and everyone asked, "What the h*** are you shootin' in that thing?" I look at this as a plus because I pocket carry this gun in black bear country and if necessary, I think one round into the ground will be enough to turn a bear in the opposite direction!
 
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I've read about how the lightweight Js crack but I've owned three for some time and no problems (maybe I'm lucky). One is a Model 38 from the early '60s, a 442 from the early '90s and a Colt Cobra from '68. All get shot frequently and get a limited dose of +P.
 
I personally don't see a need for .357 out of a J-frame. With that said, both of mine are steel-framed 640s in .38. Last year a friend of mine bought a used 642 at a local gun shop, filled out the paperwork, paid, and when he got home, called me to tell me about it. I told him to check underneath where the barrel screws into the frame when he went to pick it up after the mandatory 7-day wait. It was cracked, the store sent the gun in, and he had to wait I don't know how long for a replacement.

I'm sure the majority of them are fine, even after extensive use, but I'll stick to the steel versions.
 
I have a mid-70s vintage Model 37. It isn't rated for +P and I just used regular velocity ammo in it, mostly target wadcutters and occasional 158 grain LSWC. I would also agree that .357 Magnum recoil is too substantial in a J frame.
 
Cal44 said:
Cracks are very unlikely. People don't post all over the Internet that their J frame has not cracked.
Click to expand...

Let me be a trailblazer, then. 2 J-Frames, zero cracks. Newer 637-2, older M38.

I feel I'm being short changed by not having at least one crack ...

I too, feel it's an infrequent issue and it would not stop me from buying any J-Frame.
 
S&W has been been making a Airweight J-frame since 1951, sixty-four years (according to Wikipedia). If there was a problem with large numbers cracking S&W would of addressed that a loooooong time ago. Some do crack, of course. But I'd bet it's well under 1 in a 1,000.
 
I think the issue was with guns with the 2 piece barrel and S&W had a problem in the initial production runs with barrels being overtightened, which caused a stress crack to appear in the yoke cutout area of the frame.

A few years ago, there were ample posts about it, but S&W must have finally gotten it right as there seems to be quite the decline of such posts with the later year guns.

But interestingly enough... when S&W backed off on the barrel tightening, the posts about canted/clocked barrels with the front sight blade not being exactly at 12 0'clock, have increased and even become "routine".
 
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Been carrying alloy J-frames since I started my law enforcement career in 1981, through retirement, and now as a non-LEO. No cracking of various models. NYPD did a test back in the 1980s or so and ran over 5000 rounds with no issues.
Realistically speaking, there is no way you are going to run thousands of +P rounds through your J-Frame. You are more likely to see frame stretching than cracks.
 
Thanks for all the replies...based on all the reviews, I would most likely shoot 38 LSWCHPs (if I can find them) BUT I can really appreciate the option of .357.
SO, if I was looking for a steel 357 J frame snubby hammerless or shrouded hammer, and NO LOCK, what are my options?

I have tried the 649-3, and a few others on GB, but there are just so many J frames...

Thanks.
 
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