Frame stud/stop question.

kpla51 · Sep 9, 2015

Not sure what to call it but its the stud that stops the cylinder from falling off the crane. Are they smaller on the scandium frame models? I was inspecting my M&P40 and it looks like the stud barely holds the cylinder. My only worry is that it will wear fast and fall out. I might be over thinking this.

Any insight would be helpful.

kaaskop49 · Sep 9, 2015

kpla51 said:
Not sure what to call it but its the stud that stops the cylinder from falling off the crane. Are they smaller on the scandium frame models? I was inspecting my M&P40 and it looks like the stud barely holds the cylinder. My only worry is that it will wear fast and fall out. I might be over thinking this.

Any insight would be helpful.

Well, kpla51, you hadda do it! You made me haul out MY brand-new 340M&P to check that frame lug (is that what it's called?). It does not seem any shallower than that on any of my other modern-era J-frames and I have quite a few.

I have read of other guns where the cylinder would override the lug on extraction. I know that some folks extract fired cases aggressively by smacking the ejector rod hard with the palm. I've never found it necessary to do so. I'm sure this can cause the cylinder to override that lug over time.

While I carry a speed strip reload, I don't anticipate being able to reload when things "go south." BTW, I have a 2nd 340 on order and will check that lug, thanks to your post!

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

kpla51 · Sep 9, 2015

kaaskop49 said:
Well, kpla51, you hadda do it! You made me haul out MY brand-new 340M&P to check that frame lug (is that what it's called?). It does not seem any shallower than that on any of my other modern-era J-frames and I have quite a few.

I have read of other guns where the cylinder would override the lug on extraction. I know that some folks extract fired cases aggressively by smacking the ejector rod hard with the palm. I've never found it necessary to do so. I'm sure this can cause the cylinder to override that lug over time.

While I carry a speed strip reload, I don't anticipate being able to reload when things "go south." BTW, I have a 2nd 340 on order and will check that lug, thanks to your post!

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Does the lug stop the cylinder substantially? Mine looks like it barely touches but my eyes are bad haha.

Alk8944 · Sep 9, 2015

Yes, frame stud is the correct term. Load the cylinder and then, with it fully open rotate it while watching the clearance between the stud and the case heads, you will see why it barely is high enough to retain the cylinder. If it was any higher the case heads wouldn't clear the stud and the cylinder can jam when trying to close it!

The wear is on the front face, it won't wear lower. The yoke can become mis-aligned to where the cylinder will ride over the frame stud. If this happens the yoke needs to be aligned, not the frame stud be higher.

kpla51 · Sep 9, 2015

Alk8944 said:
Yes, frame stud is the correct term. Load the cylinder and then, with it fully open rotate it while watching the clearance between the stud and the case heads, you will see why it barely is high enough to retain the cylinder. If it was any higher the case heads wouldn't clear the stud and the cylinder can jam when trying to close it!

The wear is on the front face, it won't wear lower. The yoke can become mis-aligned to where the cylinder will ride over the frame stud. If this happens the yoke needs to be aligned, not the frame stud be higher.

This is why theres forums this is good news. I learn something new every day. I threw some spent casings in there and you are right. Just worried me a little. Im still going to take it easy and remove the cylinder or be careful while cleaning so I don't put excessive force on the stud. Thank you

Frame stud/stop question.

kpla51

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kaaskop49

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Alk8944

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