Firing pin light strike on a revolver

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Buddah

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Hello I have a less than year old Smith and Wesson .460 10.5 inch performance center revolver. It has had only 3 boxes shot out of it in the last year and was cleaned every time after use. So today I took it to the range to shoot before I left for deer hunting and as I was shooting the standard Hornaday 200grain cartridges I had a light primer strike, so I switched to the Corbon DPX 275 grain that I'm going to be using for deer hunting and I had 1 light primer strike and then a fire and then a second light primer strike. So stoped and came home and cleaned the gun. Now that we got the back ground infor out of the way, is it hard primers that are causeing the problem or is the hammer spring/bar weak? when I let the hammer down with the trigger depressed it appears the firing pin is coming all the way out and when I push it from behind it moves freely. Thank you for you time fellas :confused:
 
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Take off the grips & check to see if the strain screw is tightened all the way.
 
FWIW, I took off my side plate and found what appeared to be black loc tite gumming up my internals.
I have the 12" PC.
if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't do it,and give SW a call,
there shouldnt be any ignition problems at all.
This is a new gun correct?
 
Last edited:
Buddah said:
Hello I have a less than year old Smith and Wesson .460 10.5 inch performance center revolver. It has had only 3 boxes shot out of it in the last year and was cleaned every time after use. So today I took it to the range to shoot before I left for deer hunting and as I was shooting the standard Hornaday 200grain cartridges I had a light primer strike, so I switched to the Corbon DPX 275 grain that I'm going to be using for deer hunting and I had 1 light primer strike and then a fire and then a second light primer strike. So stoped and came home and cleaned the gun. Now that we got the back ground infor out of the way, is it hard primers that are causeing the problem or is the hammer spring/bar weak? when I let the hammer down with the trigger depressed it appears the firing pin is coming all the way out and when I push it from behind it moves freely. Thank you for you time fellas :confused:
Click to expand...

The easy check is the strain screw on the mainspring. Assuming it is all original, the next easy thing that everyone suggests is to get a longer firing pin. I tend to err on the side of caution by advising sending any firearm with light primer hits to S&W as the problem may be more complex, such as headspace issues, to name one. Thus, my more cautious advice is to have S&W give it the once-over.
 
Make sure the ejector rod is screwed in all the way and there is no debris under the ejector star
 
I took the side plate off yesterday and gave it a quick look, maybe ill take it back off today and look with a flash light a little harder. The gun is a year old and only has had 60 rounds ran through it. The gun is only a year old.
 
I am no expert, and don't take my side plates off. I do spray gun scrubber into internals. Follow it up with CLP when dried out. I did have a similar problem another brand of revolver, and sent it back. In my opinion, your gun should shoot ANY ammo with no problems. Another NW Ohio guy, Bob
 
Shawn Mccarver hit it in post #6

I would be very prone to give S&W a call. Dinged up sideplate screws on your part may foul any warranty options that S&W offers. Let them deal with your problem. Usually about three weeks and the gun will be back.
I just got one back in two weeks total. Gun is now perfect.
 
I have cleaned the entire gun and am going to take it out after I eat my thanksgiving dinner and try it again. I will let you know if I continue to have problems. Nice to see a NW ohio person on here lol. Have a wonderful thanks giving everyone. ill post later how it works.
 
I've found that the tip of the Stainless Steel Strains Screws tends to Peen shorter with use. If you've put around 1000 or more rounds through your 460 you may want to remove your Strain Screw and check it for Peening. What will happen is the end will get mushroomed with a sharp edge all the way around the tip. If this happens and you wait too long to replace it you'll need to use a needle file inside the available space in the grip frame to remove that peened lip or trying to remove the Strain Screw will result in damage to the thread in the frame. I'll also tell you that I've started replacing the Stainless Steel Strain Screws in my Stainless revolvers with the Blued Steel version because they seem to be harder. Yeah, it might look a bit odd with Wood Grips and an exposed grip frame but I prefer shooting with rubber grips.
 
I had my smith replace the firing pin on my 686P with a longer one - works fine now.

686P with TK Custom moon clip Job and moon clips.
J.M. main spring
XS big dot front and rear sights
Case Custom trigger job
Hogue wood finger grips
 
I'm having issues with my 460XVR as well but I think it has more to do with the primers, but not sure yet. I finally loaded up some of my own ammo and took 10 rounds out to shoot and had several not go bang. I was using CCI Magnum Large Rifle Primers. Here's a pic of the several that did not go bang............

2015-11-28%2015.29.50_zpsdktymaib.jpg


I came back home and loaded a few empty pieces of brass with Federal 210 primers that I also have and went out to the garage and fired them off w/o any issues so I'm thinking the CCI primers are just harder with a thicker cup?
 
It's been my experience that the CCI Small Pistol Magnum primers are noticeably harder than the CCI 500 Standard SP primers. However the standard pressure Federal and CCi primers are basically equal in hardness. If you want an example of "hard" standard primers just purchase some Remington UMC. That stuff is hard enough that I had to re-tune my 625 JM to a 9.5 lbs DA trigger to be reliable with 45 caliber UMC.

I can also tell you that from my experience with my 610-3, 620, and 625 JM that an extended travel firing pin from Cylinder & Slide may assist in resolving your misfire issue. With standard pressure CCI or Federal primers I was able to obtain reliable ignition with the DA trigger pull set to just 8 lbs.
 
IA_shooter said:
...finally loaded up some of my own ammo and took 10 rounds out to shoot and had several not go bang. I was using CCI Magnum Large Rifle Primers.

I came back home and loaded a few empty pieces of brass with Federal 210 primers that I also have and went out to the garage and fired them off w/o any issues so I'm thinking the CCI primers are just harder with a thicker cup?
Click to expand...

Hard to tell from the photo, but the primers do not look fully seated.
The CC Primers are harder but should function fine in a 460. The Federal are softer (probably the softest)

Might use some compressed air to blow out the firing pin hole to ensure no crud.

You did not mention if you were shooting single or double action, just curious.

Good luck on your deer hunt.
Ruggy
 
OP, Is the mainspring in your .460 PC flat or does it have a rib running down the center? I know that at least some PC revolvers use a Wolff (or Wolff style) ribbed mainspring. This provides a lighter trigger pull from the factory at the expense of hammer energy.

This may be contributing to the problem. The strain screw may not be long enough to provide proper tension due to the rib on the mainspring. If it also becomes peened as described by Scooter123 above, tension on the spring is further reduced. Combined with harder rifle primers used in this cartridge, light primer hits may result.

I don't know if the mainsprings used on the X-frames are a different size than the K-L-N frame. If they are, installing a flat standard power mainspring may help.
 
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