J-frame revolver question

mg357

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I have a J-frame revolver question. Why is the trigger pull on the S&W Model 638 & model 649 so stiff?

I was at my favorite gun store recently and I noticed they had a S&W Model 638 and a model 649 on display

As I was handling the revolvers I noticed that the double action and single action trigger pulls really stiff.

Is that normal with this specific S&W revolvers because of their frame design?
 
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J frame revolver question

In general, revolver trigger pull is has a tendency to be hard to pull. You are looking at about 10 to 12 pounds of pull in double action. The single trigger pull should be about half that weight. You may want to remove the side plate and see if there is any debris or other matter that would stiffen the pull. If you are knowledgeable with disassembling the gun, polish and check the parts for any burrs and polish those areas especially the rebound, trigger, and hammer. Most of the time, a little polish will do the trick and smooth the trigger pull. If you are not knowledgeable with disassembling the gun, you can purchase an armorer's DVD assembly/dissassembly of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd generation Smith & Wesson from the American Gunsmithing Institute for about$40.00. It is well worth the price and will show you how to polish those parts for better trigger action. Good Luck

Nick
NRA Training Counselor/instructor
 
Several reasons:

1) The J-frames in question are new and not broken in or lubed.

2) J-frames tend to be defensive revolvers, and are sprung to be absolutely reliable in igniting all kinds of ammunition and safe to carry exposed in pockets.

3) Being smaller all around, J-frame lockwork has less leverage compared to larger revolvers, resulting in greater force needed to cycle the action -- physics.
 
I found the DA trigger pull to be too high on my 638, also. Options for reducing the heavy trigger pull exist, but care should be taken to ensure the reliability of the piece is not compromised. My DA pull was over 12# as stock, but I was able to get it to 9# without inducing light strikes.
 
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My flat latch no dash Model 38, circa early '60s and purchased used in the early '70s, still has a stiff pull. The important thing is it works every time I pull the trigger. It has been shot literally hundreds of times and is smooth, but it makes me nervous to lighten the trigger.
 
J frames are up close and personal weapons not really intended for target use. The long, stiff trigger is a safety device. If you ever really need it I doubt you will notice the trigger pull and as already mentioned the most important feature is that they go bang every time.
 
I installed Apex Duty Spring kit in my 1982 Model 37 (less the firing pin spring which isn't needed) and my brand-spanking new Model 642-2 along with polishing contact surfaces on the 642-2 without changing engagement angles. They still aren't as light and smooth as my 1982 Model 13-3 (which has been shot a lot, but they are absolutely reliable.
 
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J frames

What about using snap caps; won't these lighten up the trigger pull?
 
It depends on your perspective as I have always thought that the single action pull on my 638 and 317 as very crisp and light.
 
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