I just bought a Model 360J, and I hope the finish on the revolver is better than the last Model 642 I bought. My question is, how durable is the black finish, and how is the finish and the Scandium frame itself resistant to corrosion? That Model 642 had the clearcoat finish, and corrosion bubbled up just under the grip on the frame after only three months of carry. I hoping that the Scandium alloy is more corrosion resistant than the ordinary aluminum frame of the 642. Your experience with your Scandium framed revolvers would be appreciated. I'm hoping this new 360J finish and material would hold up much better than the 642's did.

Your input would be appreciated......

The 442 and 642 is painted. The scandium frames are anodized. I've only carried my M&P 340 for 3 months and it looks fine. I know this is a short time, but it looks better than my wife's 642 which never gets carried.

My experience:

There is no commonly available, S&W revolver, factory finish (blued, stainless, nickel, whatever scandium's finish is) that I have found that prevents rust to any real degree. My wife and I carry daily. She carries a 360 Ti and I carry a 66-4 2.5" . We both carry IWB, clipdraw. Rust will form (particularly under the grips) if the revolver is not checked and wiped down with Bo Shield every few weeks.

Both the painted and anodized models (442, 642, 340PD) will show wear at edges and corners. All of mine do.

IME with one of my two 642s, the finish may also "flake" off relatively flat frame surfaces as well.

Scandium is there for strength, not corrosion resistance. I'm not aware of an aluminum alloy used in firearms specifically because it has great corrosion resistance. Hard anodize or simply use polymer (if possible).

As always, the best corrosion prevention is to not let your sweat get to the gun. +1 to drummer007 for recommending Boeshield, great stuff.

Guns are either tools to be carried and used, thus showing wear and tear,
or
they are safe queens with beautiful exotic wood grips and pristine finishes.

Both work, you choose which is best.

I have a 1911 with a scandium frame. No problem with corrosion over the last 9 years or so. However the finish seems to show ware faster that my blued guns. After carrying for about three months was showing a lot ware around the edges.

A "Scandium" frame is aluminum with tiny amounts of scandium in the alloy for strength. Bare, it has no more corrosion resistance than a cheap old aluminum storm door, and would turn black with tarnish if not for the finish applied to it.

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Science plus Art

Wear, is not a worry. I didn't know what the actual finish is for these guns. I actually long for the days when the anodized finishes on Smith & Wesson revolvers would not flake off, leaving bare aluminum exposed. Yeah, the finish would wear down very thin with the aluminum showing through, but it would take years of carry and use. I just wished Smith & Wesson would return to that old anodizing method, material, and thickness of yesteryear....

Thank you one and all for your input....

L Pete

Anodizing costs more, but is more durable than "paint" type coatings.

I too, just landed a 360 Scandium frame that I've yet had a chance to shoot (blasted weather!). As with all my guns, my cleaning process includes bore solvent/cleaner, oil on everything except the grips, a wipe down to remove excess oil, and then a rub with a silicone cloth.

I expect some holster wear, and some shootin' wear, but rust is something I never expect to see.

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Eschew Obfuscation.

Shot mine today...great shooter...

Shot my 148 gr. reloaded wadcutters, some CorBon 125 gr. +Ps, some Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel 135 gr. +Ps, and Sierra 110 g. Blitzs with a very healthy charge of Unique. No problems at all. I don't really understand the people that complain about the recoil with these guns. Recoil was there, and anything but severe, but nothing a normal American male can't handle. My SP-101 with .357s is way more severe. Now, I've gotten my newest CCW gun, and it's great and I love it........

If you shoot a .357 in it, I'll guarntee it will have more recoil than the Ruger. It has to, they only weigh 13 ounces.

I only shoot .357's in mine and I agree, the recoil isn't terrible, but I couldn't shoot it all day.

That should be "If you could shoot a .357 in it."

The 360J is .38 Special only, but if he could....

.

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Waiting for the break of day

Yep,....no way I want a .357 Scandium J-frame.....That would be way overboard recoil wise.....But the .38 is great.......

My bad! I know in the M&P 340, you know EXACTLY when the firing pin hits the primer!

I believe it is recommended to use cleaners and solvents that have no ammonia as you would for a nickel gun.
Hoppes No.9 has ammonia so don't use that.
I use M Pro 7 and my Scandium is holding up just fine thank you.
I haven't used it but Hoppes Elite is non-ammoniated also.

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Accuracy supercedes Speed

This one's got 8 years of shooting and pocket and ankle carry on it, 6 years of that was as my BUG during LE work on the Maine coast. The frame's finish has held up well. The thin matte blue finish on the original cylinder did little to protect it, It would get rust on the edges of the flutes after a long day of ankle carry in the summer, I had Robar coat it with NP3 and solved the problem. Not sure what drummer007 is talking about with rust on the frame of his wife's 360Ti, scandium frames are aluminum alloy with a bit of scandium added - no steel - they won't rust.

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Don't kiss smiling dogs!

Thanks one and all....so far, I like it