Houge Tamer "boot grips", modded for concealment

cleans up

Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2012
Messages
210
Reaction score
113
So a while back I was on the search for a lightweight grip that would cover the backstraps for finger position/ recoil mitigation. I prefer as short a grip as possible for concealment.

Here's a link to that thread.http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/468634-j-frame-grips-light-but-padded-what-do-you-like.html.

I tried the houge tamers, pachmyer diamond cuts, a generic boot grip, and looked at a bunch of others. After some test fitting and a range session I settled on the hogue tamers. They fit my hand well, were the lightest (why hamper an ultralight gun with a heavy grip) and made a noticeable difference with recoil. The only drawback was the grip length. Many might prefer this as it comes as it affords a full hand grip, but for me the extra length matters.

So out came a saw and sander and here's the final result. I took 1/2-3/4" off the grip length and I like it! The mod was easy and like any cut/grind mostly just meant taking my time. I don't notice reduced control but it does conceal easier.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    67.6 KB · Views: 321
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
I purchased another and plan to trim it as well. I think on the 342 it's the perfect combo, comfortable to shoot and light at about 13.9 loaded! Almost spot on 1lb in holster. Perhaps my next step will be to source an ultralight kydex. This appeals to my gram counting desire but honestly I hardly notice it as is.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    64 KB · Views: 148
Last edited:
The only thing I don't like about these type of grips on my carry gun is that cloth tends to cling to them instead of slide off. Open to suggestions on mitigating this.
I can't think of a convenient way to slick up the grip, but I don't find it to be an issue for me. Of course body type and position matter. I carry appendix which probably helps, I'm slightly overweight at 175, 5'10
 
Very interesting modification, & a real nice job, too!

What grinding / cutting implements were used?

Looks like there is still plenty of material left, to allow a nice, concealment enhancing, rounded bottom bevel - if desired.

Do you think that removing the material from the lower part of the grip (locking block?), has compromised it's retention characteristics?

IMO, by not offering a slimmed down / shortened, Centennial J frame "Bantam Tamer" model, Hogue is REALLY missing an opportunity to pull away from the rest of the "design innovation" pack...
 
Last edited:
Very interesting modification, & a real nice job, too!

What grinding / cutting implements were used?

Looks like there is still plenty of material left, to allow a nice, concealment enhancing, rounded bottom bevel - if desired.

Do you think that removing the material from the lower part of the grip (locking block?), has compromised it's retention characteristics?

IMO, by not offering a slimmed down / shortened, J frame Centennial "Bantam Tamer" model, Hogue is REALLY missing an opportunity.

I took the grips down to this level thinking it was the right next step and wanting to test fit and fire before possibly going further. The bottom section snaps into the frame pin and retention is strong. I think I could actually remove material all the way to the frame w/o compromising the grip. In part I stopped short b/c you can't add material and not to disrupt the logo (functionally ridiculous, but there you have it). I also wanted to leave room for a possible bevel on the sides.

I used a stiff backed hand saw, a dovetail type, to keep the cut straight and then a 1" belt grinder to remove the final 1/4" or so. Nothing fancy at all, and you could accomplish similar results w/ a saw and file, if your patient.

I too think this should be an option from hogue. It wouldn't take much at all to modify the molds and is enough different that I think there's a market for it. Not a large market mind you, but enough to justify a presumably small expense in tooling on thier end.
 
The only thing I don't like about these type of grips on my carry gun is that cloth tends to cling to them instead of slide off. Open to suggestions on mitigating this.

Talcum powder takes some of the stickiness away, but doesn't leave the grips too "slick." Apply the powder sparingly after removing the grips from the gun. During the application, the fine powder will find its way into your gun and quickly gum up the lubricant if you don't remove the grips first. Wipe off the excess with a lint-free cloth (microfiber works well), and you should notice that they don't grab clothing as readily. The downside is that is takes some of the "sheen" away from the appearance of the grips and may add a slightly grayish or mottled tone. This is an aesthetic consideration only, and, to my way of thinking, should not really be a consideration at all for a working gun.
 
The only thing I don't like about these type of grips on my carry gun is that cloth tends to cling to them instead of slide off. Open to suggestions on mitigating this.

Looser clothing helps here, if possible. Of course, suit-and-tie wear can preclude this. I often carry IWB which brings the gun butt closer to the body. Guess I've been 'dancing between the drops,' but I've never had this problem.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
Back
Top