I just received my first revolver (actually, first gun of any type) and I understand I need to keep it clean. What are the essentials that I need in order to keep the gun in top condition?

Thanks


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I usually use a good powder solvent such as Hoppes #9 to clean off powder, copper and lead fouling. You also need a gun cleaning rod and I also use either copper or nylon wire brush of the proper caliber. A good toothbrush for scrubbing is also an essential. And you also will need some swabs such as the Tipton cotton swabs for wiping out the fouling/bore cleaner mixture from the barrel as well as a swab tip for your rod of the proper caliber. And I would also invest in a decent set of hollow ground screwdriver kit for removing and install screws. I usually remove the cylinder and yoke from my revolvers when cleaning for ease of cleaning and you do that by removing the front screw off the side plate, opening the yoke and removing the yoke/cylinder assembly. I then put the screw back into the frame so it doesn't get lost while I'm cleaning things. Another useful tool is a small brass brush to help scrub off stubborn powder deposits.

As to the powder/bore cleaning solvent, there are a lot of products on the market that are very effective. I usually use Hoppes #9 because that's what I've used since I was a little kid and it's effective and relatively cheap. I'm sure others will chime in with their favorites and their favorites might be even better than the Hoppes #9. And if you have a new blued S&W revolver, I've read of people having problems with the blue finish being ruined by Hoppes #9, so take this as a gentle warning on a new blue finish Smith.

I use MPro-7 for cleaning. Less smell than Hoppe's so my wife doesn't get mad. I use a brass toothbrush from Brownell's a good cleaning rod with a jag and lots of patches.

You can take the cylinder off but don't go any further than that. Simple cleaning after a range session is to run a brush then patches down the barrel and through the cylinder. Wipe off the entire gun with a rag soaked in your cleaner of choice and then use a little break free as a light oil.

They're the same as for any other firearm. Just get your basic Hoppes gun cleaning kit at someplace like WalMart. They sell pistol kits or rifle & shotgun kits.

pistol cleaning kit bought at almost all stores that sell ammo and weapons. the brass rods/ brushes store in the handle. the tube made of alium. bore cleaner of your choice. the foam solvent works good, but cleaning the bores are a labor of care. I use TETRA LUB in the bores after using the solvent, it makes cleaning the bores easier after the next range session. but care has to be taken on plastic, wood finishes, sights( w/ dots). i'm sure a friend that is a weapons shooter will be glad to assist you in a learning experience.

.....and as a side note, a drop of Hoppes #9 dabbed behind the ear has been known to drive the ladies at the gun club a little wild ;-)

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Dave

I have several cleaning rods. Fancy ones with a rotating handle and plain Jane military types. Ever since I bought bore snakes for all my guns I only use the rods for oiling. I use the sized oiling swabs that screw onto the cleaning rod.

The snakes do great for cleaning and I never need patches

I like the Hopps#9 for the older guns and the stainless ones, but CLP on the newer guns with fancy finishes.

Ballistol!

Just went through your posts, and it seems you got a 640. Shooting a revolver leaves a stubborn residue on the cylinder face and frame window. On stainless, it really stands out, and can be removed easily with a Lead-A-Way cleaning cloth.
I've also used that cloth to brighten the trigger a few shades.

Enjoy your new "J".

I've always been told to run the rod from the breach to the muzzle. When using a cleaning rod as suggested here, are y'all inserting the rod through the muzzle then screwing the jag or brass brush on where the cylinder would be and pulling back out?

I use a quality stainless steel rod with a brass rod guide. You start the patch or brush into the muzzle, then get the rod guide centered into the muzzle to protect the crown. haven't had any trouble in over 30 years using this method.

Alternate method is to use one of the pull trough kits from Otis or others.

Additional essentials for revolver cleaning-M7-Pro is a very good modern, low odor cleaner which really seems to lift fouling better than the new formula Hoppe's No. 9.
If you shoot lead projectiles, the COPPER Chore-Boy is a superb leading remover. You just wrap some strands around a used bore brush, dribble solvent on it and scrub the lead out. On thing-make sure they are the solid copper Chore-Boy, not the more often seen copper washed steel! Those will ruin your barrel.

Any good, light modern gun oil will do for lube, even a 5w20, or 5W30 synthetic motor oil, though I stick with gun oils.

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Virtue,Liberty & Independence

So, cleaning from the muzzle to the breach "is" OK then?

Your cylinder should be open so cleaning from the muzzle is not a problem, it will not push any debris into the action.

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As long as you are careful not to damage the muzzle. That will adversely affect the accuracy. As stated above, use a bore guide on the cleaning rod to protect the muzzle.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

I pull a bore snake from the cylinder side to muzzle.

Proper size bore brush and patch holder for your cleaning rod and a stiff bristled tooth brush. Kano Labs Kroil for cleaning the lead and powder fouling. And for stainless steel revolvers ONLY a lead away cloth to clean the rings that form on the cylinder if you like. Not truly necessary.

Don't overthink it or get caught up in buying expensive special exotic gun cleaning lubricating products. Just get a small basic cleaning kit , a cleaning rod is nice to have , sometimes they are needed, bore-snakes are easy. I keep one for use with bore cleaner and another just for oiling. They will not damage anything.
Hoppe's and Hoppe's Elete cleaners and lubes are just fine.
The Hoppe's Elite products are low odor and I like that.
Gary

.38/.357/9mm Caliber Pistol Cleaning Kit. Model# 6-LBK38 | J Dewey Rods


Great little kit.
Use whatever cleaner and lube you like.

Lots of good information here. I have used aluminum pistol rods with aluminum or brass jags for years on my revolvers as well as on my pistols. I have never encountered any problems whatsoever cleaning from the muzzle. Aluminum and brass is much softer than gun barrel steel, so I am not worried about damaging the crown as long as common sense and proper cleaning techniques are used.

I also have some Boresnakes and use them for a quick and easy pass or two through the barrel to remove fouling right after shooting but you still need a cleaning rod, bronze brush, jags and patches to do a complete and thorough cleaning, in my opinion. I removed the brushes from all of my Boresnakes as I have read too many horror stories about snakes breaking and becoming lodged in the barrel and being very difficult to remove, due to not being able to pull the snake out backwards because of the brush.

There are a lot of good bore solvents out there and you will get a lot of opinions. My own preference is Shooter's Choice. It does a good job of lifting lead deposits so that they can be removed with a brush or patch.

In addition to regular toothbrushes, I have some utility bronze brushes for stubborn areas around the forcing cone and top strap. I made a brass scraper out of a .270 Winchester rifle case that I use sometimes when lead accumulates on these areas and won't come off with a brush.

Everyone has their own techniques and preferences and I am sure you will form yours. Good luck and good shooting!

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"In God We Trust"

Lots of good information here. I'll add using the OTIS system, a plastic coated cable with all brass attachments, instead of cleaning rod. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is also useful at times to clean off the stubburn black stuff.

The Otis system is a pretty neat and compact little kit. Great for "in the field " use.
Sort of a cross between snake and rod.
Gary

Yes!!!I just started using it and nothing works like it.It is very good.But it stinks!
Qc

Since everything has been covered above, I'll add just one additional cleaning item that I use on all my firearms; shotguns, rifles, and handguns. That additional item is: paper towels. I use them on my revolvers especially in the bores and cylinders. They are cheap, absorbent, and good scrubbers. I still use cloth patches to apply the solvents and the final oils, but use the paper towels for the in-betweens.

Oh, and paper towels are not bad for wiping my hands off with throughout the cleaning processes.

Thanks for all the great information in this thread. I ended up with this kit.



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I clean my revolvers much like in this video.

I don't have an outside table to use, so I put a 16" x 12" silicone baking mat (last forever and cheap at any store where they are sold like WM, Amazon, etc.) on the kitchen table and work away.

I use a bronze bore brush on a cleaning rod if the gun needs more cleaning than just patches.

One note regarding Ballistol is I buy the non-aerosol cans and pour it in a small spray bottle. Saves money and doesn't waste so much spraying it.

Me too. I prefer those heavy duty blue ones you can find in almost any auto parts store. Such as these: Scott(R) Shop Towels*

I've always found Hickok 45's videos informative and entertaining. Here's his take on revolver cleaning:

First watch Hickok 45's videos, he's great and you'll learn a great deal. Here is my revolver cleaning regiment for my stainless revolvers: I make sure the gun is unloaded, most important step. Then I spray the barrel down with a bore cleaner, I use mpro 7 but have used hoppes, remington bore bright, hoppes elite, try them all and find the one you like. I spray not only the barrel but the cylinders also, anywhere you see black carbon built up and let it soak. While soaking I dip a brass brush in hoppes #9 and clean the gun, it works great and I love the smell. I put a brash bore brush on my cleaning rod, dip it in the hoppes and run the rod up and down the barrel a few times to loosen any built up carbon, copper, lead. I then run a dry patch down the barrel. After that I run wet patches until they come out clean, I then do the same to the cylinders. Once everything is clean I soak the gun in remoil and wipe it down leaving a light coat of oil on the gun. I run one last dry patch down the barrel and the cylinders to remove any excess and I'm done. I only remove the cylinder every 5 or 6 times I shoot. I'm sure others do it differently but that works for me. Head to Walmart, they have everything you need to start, welcome to the club and be safe

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I am a don't over do it guy. To be dependable a handgun does NOT have to be white glove inspection clean. Residue that does not effect function ( like that stubborn accumulation that gets in the cylinder flutes) I simply ignore - whatever comes off with a silicone rag is fine. Keys are simple - chambers should be free of oil or solvent, each part which moves (hand bolt cylinder lock gets a few drops of oil) a good inspection and clean under the extractor star and a few passes of a brush followed by patches in each chamber and the bore. My total clean time is about five minutes. In no way is spotless at all superior to clean enough to guarantee function. I generally don't even use a solvent

Hope it serves you well.
If I need to run a brush through the barrel I'll loop a rag around the face of the recoil shield and hammer so I won't get too heavy handed and drive the tip into the face. That and I picked up a couple of the 3 oz. plastic bottles TSA requires to transport liquids in carry on luggage. I managed to foul a bottle of Hoppe's by dipping the brush while cleaning shotguns. The bottles allow me to dribble solvent where I need.


I was going to mention Chapman's Master Kit 5575. I grabbed one after a recommendation by a fellow forum member. The bits fit the screws on the different frame revolvers I have plus I find myself reaching for it any time I have a stuck fastener around the house. Handy and well built I was still surprised to see the prices doubled in a year.


As much as I like that kit there may be better options available at a lot less than $100. If you can swing the bucks or find one at a price you can live with you'll have a nice set of tools probably for life.


Stay safe.

Ditto on lead cloth.