Revolver Cleaning Essentials

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Trojansteel

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I just received my first revolver (actually, first gun of any type) and I understand I need to keep it clean. What are the essentials that I need in order to keep the gun in top condition?

Thanks


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I usually use a good powder solvent such as Hoppes #9 to clean off powder, copper and lead fouling. You also need a gun cleaning rod and I also use either copper or nylon wire brush of the proper caliber. A good toothbrush for scrubbing is also an essential. And you also will need some swabs such as the Tipton cotton swabs for wiping out the fouling/bore cleaner mixture from the barrel as well as a swab tip for your rod of the proper caliber. And I would also invest in a decent set of hollow ground screwdriver kit for removing and install screws. I usually remove the cylinder and yoke from my revolvers when cleaning for ease of cleaning and you do that by removing the front screw off the side plate, opening the yoke and removing the yoke/cylinder assembly. I then put the screw back into the frame so it doesn't get lost while I'm cleaning things. Another useful tool is a small brass brush to help scrub off stubborn powder deposits.

As to the powder/bore cleaning solvent, there are a lot of products on the market that are very effective. I usually use Hoppes #9 because that's what I've used since I was a little kid and it's effective and relatively cheap. I'm sure others will chime in with their favorites and their favorites might be even better than the Hoppes #9. And if you have a new blued S&W revolver, I've read of people having problems with the blue finish being ruined by Hoppes #9, so take this as a gentle warning on a new blue finish Smith.
 
I use MPro-7 for cleaning. Less smell than Hoppe's so my wife doesn't get mad. I use a brass toothbrush from Brownell's a good cleaning rod with a jag and lots of patches.

You can take the cylinder off but don't go any further than that. Simple cleaning after a range session is to run a brush then patches down the barrel and through the cylinder. Wipe off the entire gun with a rag soaked in your cleaner of choice and then use a little break free as a light oil.
 
pistol cleaning kit bought at almost all stores that sell ammo and weapons. the brass rods/ brushes store in the handle. the tube made of alium. bore cleaner of your choice. the foam solvent works good, but cleaning the bores are a labor of care. I use TETRA LUB in the bores after using the solvent, it makes cleaning the bores easier after the next range session. but care has to be taken on plastic, wood finishes, sights( w/ dots). i'm sure a friend that is a weapons shooter will be glad to assist you in a learning experience.
 
muddocktor said:
As to the powder/bore cleaning solvent, there are a lot of products on the market that are very effective. I usually use Hoppes #9 because that's what I've used since I was a little kid and it's effective and relatively cheap. I'm sure others will chime in with their favorites and their favorites might be even better than the Hoppes #9. And if you have a new blued S&W revolver, I've read of people having problems with the blue finish being ruined by Hoppes #9, so take this as a gentle warning on a new blue finish Smith.
Click to expand...


.....and as a side note, a drop of Hoppes #9 dabbed behind the ear has been known to drive the ladies at the gun club a little wild ;-)
 
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I have several cleaning rods. Fancy ones with a rotating handle and plain Jane military types. Ever since I bought bore snakes for all my guns I only use the rods for oiling. I use the sized oiling swabs that screw onto the cleaning rod.

The snakes do great for cleaning and I never need patches

I like the Hopps#9 for the older guns and the stainless ones, but CLP on the newer guns with fancy finishes.
 
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Just went through your posts, and it seems you got a 640. Shooting a revolver leaves a stubborn residue on the cylinder face and frame window. On stainless, it really stands out, and can be removed easily with a Lead-A-Way cleaning cloth.
I've also used that cloth to brighten the trigger a few shades.

Enjoy your new "J".
 
I've always been told to run the rod from the breach to the muzzle. When using a cleaning rod as suggested here, are y'all inserting the rod through the muzzle then screwing the jag or brass brush on where the cylinder would be and pulling back out?
 
Losi b said:
I've always been told to run the rod from the breach to the muzzle. When using a cleaning rod as suggested here, are y'all inserting the rod through the muzzle then screwing the jag or brass brush on where the cylinder would be and pulling back out?
Click to expand...

I use a quality stainless steel rod with a brass rod guide. You start the patch or brush into the muzzle, then get the rod guide centered into the muzzle to protect the crown. haven't had any trouble in over 30 years using this method.

Alternate method is to use one of the pull trough kits from Otis or others.

Additional essentials for revolver cleaning-M7-Pro is a very good modern, low odor cleaner which really seems to lift fouling better than the new formula Hoppe's No. 9.
If you shoot lead projectiles, the COPPER Chore-Boy is a superb leading remover. You just wrap some strands around a used bore brush, dribble solvent on it and scrub the lead out. On thing-make sure they are the solid copper Chore-Boy, not the more often seen copper washed steel! Those will ruin your barrel.

Any good, light modern gun oil will do for lube, even a 5w20, or 5W30 synthetic motor oil, though I stick with gun oils.
 
steamloco76 said:
I use a quality stainless steel rod with a brass rod guide. You start the patch or brush into the muzzle, then get the rod guide centered into the muzzle to protect the crown. haven't had any trouble in over 30 years using this method.

Alternate method is to use one of the pull trough kits from Otis or others.

Additional essentials for revolver cleaning-M7-Pro is a very good modern, low odor cleaner which really seems to lift fouling better than the new formula Hoppe's No. 9.
If you shoot lead projectiles, the COPPER Chore-Boy is a superb leading remover. You just wrap some strands around a used bore brush, dribble solvent on it and scrub the lead out. On thing-make sure they are the solid copper Chore-Boy, not the more often seen copper washed steel! Those will ruin your barrel.

Any good, light modern gun oil will do for lube, even a 5w20, or 5W30 synthetic motor oil, though I stick with gun oils.
Click to expand...
So, cleaning from the muzzle to the breach "is" OK then?
 
Your cylinder should be open so cleaning from the muzzle is not a problem, it will not push any debris into the action.

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As long as you are careful not to damage the muzzle. That will adversely affect the accuracy. As stated above, use a bore guide on the cleaning rod to protect the muzzle.
 
Proper size bore brush and patch holder for your cleaning rod and a stiff bristled tooth brush. Kano Labs Kroil for cleaning the lead and powder fouling. And for stainless steel revolvers ONLY a lead away cloth to clean the rings that form on the cylinder if you like. Not truly necessary.
 
Don't overthink it or get caught up in buying expensive special exotic gun cleaning lubricating products. Just get a small basic cleaning kit , a cleaning rod is nice to have , sometimes they are needed, bore-snakes are easy. I keep one for use with bore cleaner and another just for oiling. They will not damage anything.
Hoppe's and Hoppe's Elete cleaners and lubes are just fine.
The Hoppe's Elite products are low odor and I like that.
Gary
 
Lots of good information here. I have used aluminum pistol rods with aluminum or brass jags for years on my revolvers as well as on my pistols. I have never encountered any problems whatsoever cleaning from the muzzle. Aluminum and brass is much softer than gun barrel steel, so I am not worried about damaging the crown as long as common sense and proper cleaning techniques are used.

I also have some Boresnakes and use them for a quick and easy pass or two through the barrel to remove fouling right after shooting but you still need a cleaning rod, bronze brush, jags and patches to do a complete and thorough cleaning, in my opinion. I removed the brushes from all of my Boresnakes as I have read too many horror stories about snakes breaking and becoming lodged in the barrel and being very difficult to remove, due to not being able to pull the snake out backwards because of the brush.

There are a lot of good bore solvents out there and you will get a lot of opinions. My own preference is Shooter's Choice. It does a good job of lifting lead deposits so that they can be removed with a brush or patch.

In addition to regular toothbrushes, I have some utility bronze brushes for stubborn areas around the forcing cone and top strap. I made a brass scraper out of a .270 Winchester rifle case that I use sometimes when lead accumulates on these areas and won't come off with a brush.

Everyone has their own techniques and preferences and I am sure you will form yours. Good luck and good shooting!
 
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Lots of good information here. I'll add using the OTIS system, a plastic coated cable with all brass attachments, instead of cleaning rod. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is also useful at times to clean off the stubburn black stuff.
 
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