Perf Center J frames worth the extra expense, need your opinions.

Eagle1*

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Looking at getting into the J frame platform again and was wondering if the newer performance center j frames (442 with ti colored cylinder and the 642 with the rosewood finger groove grips) are worth the added expense? Seems to be around $125.00 more from a standard 442/642 gun and other than the trigger job and different grips, is there any other added features making these guns worth the added expense? Thanks for your input...
 
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I own one of them (https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-642-0), although it's currently back at the factory having fit and finish issues corrected. More on that at the bottom.

I paid $450 for mine, which got me a revolver that has no lock, a better than usual boot-style grip, a chromed trigger and thumbpiece, a cylinder that was cut for moon clips, and what appeared to be an excellent factory trigger job.

To elaborate on the last point, I had a friend who owned a ~10 year old regularly shot 442 accompany me when I went to pick up my gun. My gun had a noticeably better trigger out of the box in that both of us were able to perfectly stage the pull, which was not possible on his stock 442.

Ultimately, whether it is worthwhile depends on whether you are prioritizing cost or value. A standard 442 or 642 is obviously going to be cheaper and more likely to be the object of sales with deep discounts due to the volume of their production. The Performance Center versions, however, are a great value for a comparatively marginal (~12%-17% over normal prices for mine) increase in price.

About what was wrong with my gun specifically: It looked like it was made on a Friday afternoon or Monday morning. It had tool marks on the barrel shroud, chips on the trigger guard, a spot near the Performance Center rollmark where the finish looked scuffed/was rubbing off, a smudge on the trigger that looked to be caused by uneven application of chrome, poorly mated grip panels, and something that looked like metal fatigue/very bad machining right where it meets the barrel. Most of these are fairly minor issues individually, but I found them to be unacceptable when viewed as a whole.
 
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I guess I'm simple-minded as well as cheap. I consider a J-frame an up-close-and-all-too-personal defensive gun, not one requiring target accuracy. Being able to precisely stage a trigger is likely to be the last consideration on my mind if, heaven forbid, I have to use my J to save my ancient bacon. Being able to place rounds with minute of miscreant accuracy will suit me just fine. A range gun it ain't, in my old-fashioned book.

If I were buying a new J-frame today, it's highly unlikely I'd spring another $125 for the extras, nice though they may be. A plain, workmanlike self-defense gun is fine, and has been serving people well for a long time.
 
I agree with shouldazagged, I suspect that your EDC j-frame will not also be your "bbq gun" (I don't have one myself). The extra finishing will not gain you anything at a range of three feet. Me, I would spend that money to stock up an extra ammo for my carry gun.

Just so everybody knows, my favorite "full size" gun has become the Model 10/Model 64 4". As I have gotten older, the appeal of fancier guns has drained away along with any thought that they will enhance my survival over the basic guns I could carry.
 
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I bought my 642 PC Enhanced ([url]https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-642-0)[/URL] because it already had the lighter rebound spring and smoothed trigger pull I'd installed on my 2.5 inch 642. I had to dry fire (with snap caps) the 2.5 incher hundreds of times before the trigger smoothed to my liking. The PC model is just as smooth and the boot grips are the best pocket/IWB concealment grips I've had on a J-frame, and I've tried a lot of grips.

The polished flutes and trigger didn't matter, but having the moon clip cut is nice. When you need to eject the rounds, all five will come out. I carry speed strips for a reload though, as the five round in a moon clip don't ride a pocket well.

I purchased mine from dealer stock, so I had no fit or finish issues. The on again, off again quality control problems with most gun manufacturers today make buying in person, from a stocking dealer a wise idea if, you can find the model you want in stock!
 
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thanks for the info guys, I found a used 442PC locally that is a fair price. I am going to look at it this week and if it is a great shape, I am going for it. Now I am thinking of a 438 or 638, cannot decide though as they both have the internal locks which i don't really mind but it does bother me a bit.
 
The 438/638 are cool--cooler than the 442/642 in my book--, but do you see yourself using the single action mode much? Because if you do not plan on doing so, I would recommend the 442 or 642 over it.

Consider that firing in single action will allow a prosecutor/tort lawyer to easily take you to the cleaners if you ever have to use your gun to defend yourself and that the exposed hammer is another ingress point for dirt, perspiration, and pocket crud into your gun. You also do not have the option to buy one without a lock unless you're buying from the secondhand market, which potentially raises other issues as well.

Also, keep in mind with the PC 442 that you will probably end up changing the grips. I tried it and was highly dissatisfied with the functionality and ergonomics of the default grips.
 
Three of my four J-frames are Performance Center: a Talo Enhanced Action 637, a Wyatt Deep Cover 637 and a Pro Series 640. My Model 60 is a standard production revolver.

All of the PC guns have better triggers than my Model 60, ranging from a bit smoother to unbelievably smooth. This alone would probably steer me to these guns.

Additionally, I like the extras features that come with PC guns like factory trigger jobs, cylinders cut for moon clips, polished and radiused triggers, enhanced sites, custom grips, and even purely cosmetic things like polished flutes and cylinder releases and unique markings. These may not be as important to you.

I've found that at the retail level, at least in my area, the prices are not that much higher for for the PC versions than the standard. In any case, they are cheaper than if you had a gunsmith do the upgrades on a standard revolver.
 
To PC, or not to PC...

My priorities for ANY S&W revolver, as follows:
1. Reliability: gotta' be 100%.
2. Smooth, properly timed action: contributes to accuracy, & ease of operation - on the street, or at the range. I do value a smooth DA pull - followed by a clean break.
3. Reasonably accurate within it's intended range: that's 5 - 15 yards for my pocket carry j frames. In my locality, anything past that, would be a tough defense.
4. Easy maintenance: mostly own stainless guns, but some times break my own rule (M&P340) - for primary EDC...

Never have owned a S&W PC gun, & can't say that any of my current, meager collection, are lacking - in any way. Just my two cents - YMMV...
 
I may be cheap but, the standard J-Frames suit me fine. I dry fire them at least 2000 times before I shoot them. This smooths the action. I don't need a light trigger pull. I like the Uncle Mike's Boot Grips for pocket carry and for short practices. If I shoot a lot I'll use one that has Pachmyer's or Hogue Tamers.
 

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I was at LGS today and they had a 442PC and a Regular 442 No lock, he was really pushing the PC based on the grip, $120 more i said no Thanks i wanted the Standard 442.
 
I may be cheap but, the standard J-Frames suit me fine. I dry fire them at least 2000 times before I shoot them.

I can't imagine spending that much time. I might get two times in :)
 
I can't imagine spending that much time. I might get two times in :)

I do it at night while watching TV or camping sitting around the camp fire. When I worked my friends gun shop I had a lot of time to just hang out and click away. Dry fire and clean then lube.
 
I do it at night while watching TV or camping sitting around the camp fire. When I worked my friends gun shop I had a lot of time to just hang out and click away. Dry fire and clean then lube.
Dang that would be nerve eating :)
 
For my 360J

For my 360J and my $120 I got my choice of Altamont grips and will get a trigger job and maybe lock removal by my local gunsmith ( a excellent S&W gunsmith).
If I was buying new and the Pro Shop was offering a combination I liked I would definitely buy it. IIRC the 640pro was one that had my eye.
 
HELLO ALL, I have 2 j frame S&W carry guns that I love to carry.
model 49 and 649 for me they are hard to beat with the rite holster
Mayhaw
 
I'd buy a PC J-frame if I didn't already have a 442 no-lock. They seem like nice guns and most of the enhancements are pretty decent and a bargain for the premium. If you like the moon clip setup, it saves you sending off your cylinder and voiding any warranty right off the bat.
 
Well, I took your advise and jumped in on a almost brand new one I found locally. The trigger pull is actually really good. So much so that I might opt for another one. Thanks for your help, here is a pic of it stoked with Federal Nyclad 158 grn +P lead semi wadcutter hollow points...
 

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Well, I took your advise and jumped in on a almost brand new one I found locally. The trigger pull is actually really good. So much so that I might opt for another one. Thanks for your help, here is a pic of it stoked with Federal Nyclad 158 grn +P lead semi wadcutter hollow points...

Nice piece! I'm sure you will be very happy w/ it.

I'm partial to the Hogue j frame bantam - as shown. Have one on my M340, & find that it points naturally.

To clarify, are the shiny parts (cylinder, thumb piece, trigger) plated, or stainless?

Also, is the trigger hollow on the back, or solid?
 
Nice piece! I'm sure you will be very happy w/ it.

I'm partial to the Hogue j frame bantam - as shown. Have one on my M340, & find that it points naturally.

To clarify, are the shiny parts (cylinder, thumb piece, trigger) plated, or stainless?

Also, is the trigger hollow on the back, or solid?

trigger is hollow and as far the cylinder being chromed or stainless I do not know. I think the cylinder is stainless though.
 
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