686+ vs 627 Pro

I am trying to make a decision on my first revolver and narrowed things down to these two models. I understand that there is no reason to ask which one is better as there seems to be a 50/50 split. The only agreement is that either of these guns is excellent and will last me a lifetime.

I do however have a few questions and concerns:
1. 686 feels like an American class and has been in production longer than 627. Feels like there would be fewer potential issues with this gun?
2. 627 is a pro edition so extra attention to detail during manufacture and I'm OK with spending +100$ on this firearm if I do get better quality product.
3. More accessories for 686 as it's a 7-shot vs 8-shot revolver, and overall seems to be a more popular choice.
4. I wanted to make 100% sure that I would be able to fire 627 WITHOUT moon-clips. IE I can drop rounds one by one into individual chambers if I want to and fire.
5. 627 is built on a frame (N-frame) that was designed for a different caliber as opposed to 686 being built on a "correct" frame. I'm not sure what I should make of this, if anything. My first feeling is that it's not a good thing to mix and match, but then again I don't know.
6. I plan to use either gun as a range gun and MAYBE as a home defense gun(probably not as I have my pistols)

Please let me know what your opinions are on my concerns above. Notwithstanding the price which one would be a better choice.

thanks

Consider the 327pc, love it

The biggest difference is that the weight and width of the 627 is a bit more than the 686.

I had the 627 Pro. Excellent gun. Very accurate, particularly with adjustable rear sights. I only got rid of the Pro as I had a Performance Center 5" 627 that I had, also.

In the end, it is a matter of what feels better in hand. What does the trigger feel like to you. How does the gun balance in your hands?

I find very long barrels to be unwieldy. Anything greater than 7.5" is too much for me. Shorter barrels give up a little velocity.

The 627 doesn't require moonclips to shoot.

The only accessories I consider for large frame handguns are the holster, grips and a rail if I decide to choose an optic.


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either gun would be in 4 inch model.

This will probably be the only revolver that I would own, that's why I'm splitting hairs trying to pick a better one of the two.

I have a 686+ and a 627. I shoot the 627 5X more.

Buy both

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pgb205 said:

6. I plan to use either gun as a range gun ...

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Depending on how many rounds you like to shoot during range sessions, weight might be a consideration.
For my usual 150rd sessions, my 4" 686+ gets tiring to hold with arms extended, but the weight of my 3" 686+ does not. I love shooting the 4", but I have to take a rest in the middle of the session.

With that in mind, I'll throw another model into the mix, the Performance Center Pro Series Model 686 Plus, SKU: 178038.
It' a 5" that weighs less than the 4", so you get the benefit of increased sight radius for no weight penalty. It also comes with target sights and grips. Overall, it's a design for range work.

Performance Center(R) Pro Series(R) Model 686 Plus | Smith & Wesson

S&W M686 Plus 7RD 357MAG/38SP 5" $785.00 SHIPS FREE

I have both. The weight is very similar between the two, but the 686 is noticeably nose heavy. First choice would be the 627, but nothing wrong with the 686.

I have shot but dont own a 627, but I do own three 686s and a a 3-inch N-frame in .44 magnum. I like the size and feel of the 686 L-frame a bit better.
They are both good choices, go with the one that feels better to you in hand.

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pgb205 said:

I am trying to make a decision on my first revolver and narrowed things down to these two models.

I do however have a few questions and concerns:
1. 686 feels like an American class and has been in production longer than 627. Feels like there would be fewer potential issues with this gun?

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As was pointed out, the Model 27 ( the blued version of the 627) has been in existence since 1935. The 586/686 guns since the early 80's. There are no "bugs" to be worked-out with either gun.

pgb205 said:

2. 627 is a pro edition so extra attention to detail during manufacture and I'm OK with spending +100$ on this firearm if I do get better quality product.

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It's pretty much the luck of the draw as to whether the Pro, or even a PC is any better than a regular production gun. Don't buy it just because it is a Pro, buy it because it has the features you like.

pgb205 said:

3. More accessories for 686 as it's a 7-shot vs 8-shot revolver, and overall seems to be a more popular choice.

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That is patently incorrect. The 7-shot revolvers are like the red-headed step-child of the S&W line-up. The 8-shot revolvers are used extensively in competition (USPSA & ICORE) and as such there are many more accessories available for them. Just as with cars - race on Sunday, sell on Monday - the competition use drives the aftermarket and the 7-shot guns really have no place on the competition side of the equation.

pgb205 said:

4. I wanted to make 100% sure that I would be able to fire 627 WITHOUT moon-clips. IE I can drop rounds one by one into individual chambers if I want to and fire.

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Rest easy. Any gun that is originally chambered for a rimmed round (i.e. .357 Mag) and is either machined for moon clips in the aftermarket or by the factory, can accept singly loaded rounds or rounds from a speed loader. Only guns chambered for rimless or semi-rimmed rounds require moon clips (although there are those that would argue with me on that point - just depends on if you want 100% reliability and intact fingernails).

pgb205 said:

5. 627 is built on a frame (N-frame) that was designed for a different caliber as opposed to 686 being built on a "correct" frame. I'm not sure what I should make of this, if anything. My first feeling is that it's not a good thing to mix and match, but then again I don't know.

Click to expand...

The N-frame has been around since the turn of the last century and was made specifically for large bore cartridges (those that begin with a "4"). With the evolution of ammunition and "magnumization" it only made sense to use the largest frame currently (then) made for these cartridges - starting with the .38/.44 which would be most closely equivalent to today's +P or +P+ .38 Spl. The heavier frame was better for recoil absorption and longer life. The L-frame came along because of the forcing cone issues with the .357 K-frames. NOTE: L-frames are also used for large bore cartridges, although in those iterations the cylinder is only bored with 5 chambers - the exception being the 646 chambered in .40 S&W. Bigger is better when it comes to recoil and longevity.

pgb205 said:

6. I plan to use either gun as a range gun and MAYBE as a home defense gun(probably not as I have my pistols)

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Either would be suitable for that - but if I may have to use the gun for defensive purposes, I would always opt for the one with greater capacity. Looking way down the road - there may come a time that you'll want to play some gun games with your revolver - as I pointed out above, the 8-shot revolvers are eminently better suited to this endeavor - the 7-shot revolvers? Not so much.

Good luck with whichever you choose.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

ordered
Smith & Wesson 627 Pro Series Revolver .357 Mag 4in 8rd Stainless

You made a good choice.

I love my 627, which is my only revolver. I was between the 66, 686, and 627. I liked the bead blast finish and balance better on the 66 and 627, and the 627 had some unqualifiable cool factor to it, and the quick change sights are really cool. I also didn't like the black components on the 66, so I went with the heftier 627.

Enjoy!

And don't forget to stop in with a range and some pictures.

Perfect. My 627 is always on "roster" as part of my 3 gun bag. Having that extra round at the range or home IS a bonus!

Nuff said

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got my 627 today. Very happy so far as far as appearance but am yet to take it to the range.

Two concerns that I have are
On the attached image you'll see that there is a scratch mark across the recoil shield. Clearly this is from nub that is in the middle of star. I'm not sure if it's normal or not. It's not a gauge, there is no burr when I ran my fingernail across.

When I press cylinder release it doesn't 'fall out' on its own even after I lean the gun sideways. I have to give the cylinder a bit of the nudge to make it come out. I'm 99% certain that this is ok.

pgb205 said:

got my 627 today. Very happy so far as far as appearance but am yet to take it to the range.

Two concerns that I have are
On the attached image you'll see that there is a scratch mark across the recoil shield. Clearly this is from nub that is in the middle of star. I'm not sure if it's normal or not. It's not a gauge, there is no burr when I ran my fingernail across.

When I press cylinder release it doesn't 'fall out' on its own even after I lean the gun sideways. I have to give the cylinder a bit of the nudge to make it come out. I'm 99% certain that this is ok.

Click to expand...

That's perfectly normal. Both items you describe. The cylinder should not be allowed to "fall out on its own" under any circumstances by the way, always keep it under control with your left hand. To do otherwise, like the idiots in the Hollywood movies do is to risk damage to the cylinder crane, not good!

What you are seeing is caused by the "cylinder center pin" and is very normal.

Ok. Just took a trip to the range with this gun (after having cleaned and lubricated as instructed in the manual). Fired off 20 rounds of 38 sp and 357 mag by Tulammo. First cylinder went with no problems. By the second cylinder i found it difficult to eject. Third cylinder I am unable to eject spend brass at all no matter how hard I try to push down ejector rod(ie I am unable to depress it at all). You can see several shots in attached pictures. I'm not sure if something is wrong with ammo, the cylinder, something else?

Try different ammo.

Did it do this with the 38s? Must've been the mags?

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Did you shoot .38s and then .357s? That's never a good idea. If you're going to shoot a mix of .38's and .357s, ALWAYS shoot the .357s FIRST and the .38s LAST. Otherwise, the .38 will leave fouling in the chambers and cause the longer .357 Magnums to stick in the chambers and not extract properly. A thorough cleaning will likely cure the problem you've encountered.

Sorry about the stuck brass, really a bummer. I'm sure you will be getting better suggestions than I can give, but..

If the brass is still stuck, I do suggest that you remove the cylinder from the revolver before you apply much force. You don't want to bend the crane. I would use a dowel rod to lightly tap the brass out of the cylinder. You can then inspect the brass.

Will