Guy here local has what he is calling a Model 38 in "nickel" or so he says. Now to me, it looks like a Model 638 because it says "airweight" right on the side. I messaged the seller and he said no, it's a Model 38 with nickel finish.

So can someone tell me what is going on? Is this some kind of pre Model 638 or something? Reason I ask is because it's a no-lock gun and I have wanted a no-lock 638 for years. This looks like basically the exact same thing.

Just wondering gang, please help! Thanks!

The M-38 was made in both, blue and nickel. Have him send you a picture of the number under the crane and also ask if the cylinder or frame have the initial N stamped under barrel or back of cylinder or under grips, etc.

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A Snider squibbed n the Jungle

Nickel Airweight model 38 no dash..yea,they made em. This one bought many moons ago..

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CIMG5744.jpg (122.6 KB, 362 views)

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Remain Viable

If it is a Model 38, it is an Airweight. If he says it's nickel, it probably is. Not sure I understand exactly why you doubt him, but it sounds like you are basing it on misinformation.

Thanks guys. So what makes it different from a Model 642? The nickel vs stainless?

642 is an aluminum frame hammerless Centennial,don't come nickel and have stainless cylinder and barrel.
38 is an aluminum frame, shrouded hammer,nickel or blued finish,steel cylinder and barrel.

A 49 is the same as a 38..but steel frame.
A 649 is a stainless steel version of the 49.(in a nutshell)

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Remain Viable

I had a nickel 38 some years back. I did not know the history of the gun as I bought it used, but it appeared new and was possibly unfired. In the first 100 rounds, using factory equivalent standard pressure handloads, the frame cracked in the usual place where frame cracks occur, just under the barrel threads.

I realize there will likely be responses here where others have put many +P rounds through their older alloy J-frames without mishap; I don't question their claims. I've been shooting steel and alloy J-frame guns since 1970 and have had plenty of each. If you intend to shoot very much, a steel J-frame is a far better choice and it's easier and more comfortable to shoot.

Thanks, yes I meant "638" in my last post!

I have always pined for a 638 for CCW use. I want to put a set of wood service stocks on it with Tyler-Ts. Classy. I did not know the Model 38s had frame cracking issues. I never experienced this with my Model 642 (since traded off). I suppose the older Model 38s were not as durable as the new 638s? But S&W does not offer the new 638s without a lock. I cannot do the lock, sorry, I'm one of those guys.

So this Model 38 nickel is about as close to a no lock 638 as I'll get. I also like the normal blued Model 38, but like the silver looking one better. I just wish S&W would offer the 638 without a lock. They already do with the 642 and several other J-frames, I never got why they didn't do it with the 638.

There actually was a pre IL Model 638 Airweight offered between 1989 and 2001.

S&W Model numbers are a bit bizaar, the original J snubs had names until S&W changed to the two digit numbers like Model 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42 etc., The first production SS S&W was introduced as the Model 60,

In the early 80's the number 6 was added to the beginning of certain models to denote a SS version such as the Model 649 (ss version of the Model 49) Model 640 (SS version of the Model 40) etc. and the number 4 was added to some models to denote blue or nickel on carbon steel .

I've heard reports of cracks from all of the Aluminum frame Airweights.

37, 38, 638, 637, 642. et. al. -- even Model 12's which are K frames.

But that said, not a high percentage crack.

Many go for decades and work just fine with no cracks.

Got my flat latch (no dash) M38 second hand in the early '70s as a back-up to my issued Model 15. I still have it but carry my 340M&P so the M38 sits in the safe. Some call them ugly hump backs but I like the look.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

Of current production only Centennial frame guns are made without the lock. Any revolver were you can SEE the hammer will always have the lock.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

Hi JayFramer:

I'm a real "humpback" fan. My EDC consists of a Model 38-0 and a Model 638-1. The Model 38-0 has a nickeled cylinder from a donor Model 38-0 to create my version of a MSP Bodyguard after I failed to find an affordable one that was in good shape. I also have a Model 649-0 (lower revolver, photo 1). They're out there, sometimes, you just have to be in the right place at the right time. The Model 38-0 was purchased off of an on-line auction site. The Model 638-1 was purchased off of a local gun board. The Model 649-0 was purchased off of this Forum and came with the original box, documents, grips and tools. I don't think I paid more than $350.00 for anyone of these revolvers.

Good luck,

Dave

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	638-1 & 649-0 left.jpg (27.6 KB, 231 views)
	ERGO grips vs CT LG-405.jpg (75.6 KB, 155 views)

Awesome, glad they are looking out for us.

Someone mentioned 642 no-locks were made from 1989-2001. They seem to be incredibly hard to find, unlike many other pre-locks. I suppose they made not very many?

I am not sure that I follow the original post entirely....but I have seen at least two Models 38 with a matte nickel finish, sort of like on the nickel 442. It looks superficially like the modern production 638...but it's really a 38.

I'm not as well versed on S&W guns as so many here are. I did not know that there was such a gun as a Model 38 airweight revolver.

Yes sir....here is a pair of nickel 38's.



It's hard to take a photo of something to reflective

On the left in both photos is a 638-2 with no internal lock. On the right in both photos is a 638-3 with internal lock.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

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Dave Brown
SWCA #3279

...and here's a 1989 638(no dash). 1 of about 500. It has clear anodized aluminum frame.

Cheers,

Bob

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	Pair o' 38s.jpg (128.9 KB, 95 views)
	Pair of 38s.jpg (124.3 KB, 82 views)

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Wrangler of stray Chiefs
Bob

I assume you meant the no-lock M638 Bodyguard, as no-lock 642 Centennials are still in production today and very easy to find.

The last no-lock M638 was made in the '90's before the current concealed carry craze. Production numbers then were more modest compared to today. Now days S&W cranks out Airweights like Oscar Mayer makes hot dogs, in an attempt to satiate the seemingly limitless concealed carry demand.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

To the OP! If the gun in question is a "factory" nickel gun it will have a blued extractor! All S&W nickel guns came from the factory with a blued extractor. If the gun in question is a 638 the extractor will be SS.
jcelect

After reading your post, I got curious and went looking for my original box for my 638-2 and reviewed the Instruction Manual (dated 11/96) and for sure the 638-2 was NOT rated for Plus P Ammunition! Somehow, I had missed this point all those years ago when I purchased this gun, or perhaps I didn't care? All I know for sure is I've fired many rounds of Plus P with no ill effects.

The new 638-3 is rated for Plus P, and is marked as such right on the barrel.

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Dave Brown
SWCA #3279

While the M638-2 is not marked, it certainly is rated for Plus P.

Any of the newer j frames with the magnum frame (milled in cylinder stop/frame lug) are, see the pic below for what to look for, as well as the factory announcement showing the Plus P rating.

Frame lug/cylinder stop


Factory announcement

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.............SmithNut

Obligatory pic of my favorite Bodyguard model - the M638 and variations:


And of course, an old pic of the Bodyguard collection, or at least what it used to be:

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.............SmithNut

Fantastic gun, and extremely hard to find version.....

congrats...

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.............SmithNut

I hate you.

People like you are the reason people like me can't find these good old no-lock guns. Because for some reason, you just have to have two dozen of them!!

Wonder if I should post a WTB on this forum? Probably not worth it, but still.

That's certainly what I remember from the time when I purchased the 638-2. The only explanation I can come up with at this point is Smith & Wesson must have been using up some obsolete instruction manuals at the time I bought mine!

Thanks for the clarification SmithNut! I'm glad I wasn't doing any serious harm by using Plus P ammunition in my 638-2!

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Dave Brown
SWCA #3279

Thanks. It's funny...I stumbled across this 638 (no dash) at a local gun shop. Of course, I would not expect the gun shop to know what it is, but I sure did. Snatched it up right away.

Lightning struck twice. Walked into the largest local gun shop a year or two ago and found this in the cabinet...a 637(no dash). It is just slightly more "rare" than the 638. It has the same clear anodized finish. Also made in 1989. Of course, this one flew below the shop's radar as well. Got it cheap.

Also, SmithNut...your photos and collection are great.

NCBeagle,

Your M637 has the S&W trademark logo on both the left and right side. Doubly blessed.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

Whoa. Did not notice that before. Good eye.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you guys think $400 is a good price for a like-new 638-2 no-lock with original box and papers?

That's a great price. I paid $100 more a couple years ago for the same and was glad I got it.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

Bought it last night for $400. Here is a picture from the auction:



I have wanted a no-lock 638 for years. I plan to add some wood magna grips and possibly some Tyler-Ts. Truth be known my small carry auto and even my full size autos have been giving me problems lately. I really missed that revolver dependability. This will become my summer carry for sure.

Well done.


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Donkey shorts, NC Beagle! I have wanted this gun for so long! I would already have one if it weren't for S&W not making a no-lock version after about 2001.

I personally think a .38 snub nose is enough for defense in most situations. This will be my primary carry, "all the time" gun as it were. And like I said, I've had issues with my carry autos lately. I'm a bit jaded to them and I have more trust in a good revolver.

How do you intend to carry? May I suggest the TT Gun leather KX lightweight for IWB carry or Mika pocket holster, if you are inclined to carry that way. You could also do the Barami Hip Grip, Tyler T Grip, and rubber combo for IWB carry without a holster.

This won't be my first time carrying a J-frame. I do quite like the Barami hip grip paired with a Tyler-T. I carried my 642 (since sold) with one for years. I am thinking I'll try a Sticky brand IWB/pocket holster and carry it IWB. I have several of their holsters and they are fantastic, and very slim. I also have a Bob Mika pocket holster somewhere that was very good, but I don't prefer pocket carry just because I don't want to give up one of my jeans pockets if I can avoid it. Thanks for the tips though! I'm on "the highway to the J-frame zone" and I can't wait to be back!

Very nice gun at a great price.
My model 38 and 649 humpbacks are my favorites.

Enjoy.

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2B1ASK1

Guys don't tell but I've been watching a lot of '70s detective films. That may have really made me want a snubnose .38 again!

JayFramer,

That's the same exact instruction manual pictured in your box that I was referring to in my post above about my 638-2 supposedly NOT being rated for Plus P ammunition! Look at Page 8 in the manual, you'll notice there isn't a black triangle out to the side of the 638 listing. Like I said, S & W must have been using up some obsolete instruction manuals when these went out. Mine is S# CBY3525. How close is yours?

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Dave Brown
SWCA #3279

Mine is CCD67**

Wonder if it's +P rated? Even if not, I'll still carry my Gold Dot short barrel 135 grain +P carry load in it, but won't shoot it very often, just enought to verify POI and function. I do not plan to make this a regular shooter but will practice enough to be proficient, with standard pressure loads.

The SCSW 4th suggests your new revolver was made in 1997. If my memory serves -- sometimes it actually does -- 1996 was the first year +P was supposed to be okay.

I just picked up a 642 LS that came from 1997. The barrel doesn't say +P like some of the later ones so I have no intention of taking a chance. The plain ol' .38s are fine for me. My 640 Pro and M&P 340 are cleared for magnums so I don't need to push the limits on the 642.

Just my take,

Bob

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Wrangler of stray Chiefs
Bob

I see. I'll still carry +Ps but won't shoot them often. It's just hard to find a good performing standard pressure load for snub nosed guns, and I am not a reloader.

My M638 is my pocket CC revolver. My old M49 sits in the safe unhappy with me I'm sure.
But I have to say the "J" frame I CC now the most is my M640-1.
I prefer a S&W Magnum myself...

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Only difference Fool/Mule-ears

I was given a late 1970's M37 airweight in nickle a few years back. It was basically a 2" exposed hammer M36 with an aluminum frame. Maybe that is what is what you're looking at?

I'm not a J frame fan and traded the M37 for a M1917.

This model was introduced in 1955 as "Airweight Bodyguard". 2" barrel was standard although was offered with a 3" barrel.
The model 638 was offered aluminum frame and stainless steel finish.

I can't find any references that indicate that the Model 38 was offered in stainless steel.

Guys I also ordered an "old style" stainless cylinder release thumb latch (whatever it's called). Looking at all the pretty pictures of bodyguards, I think it'll look a lot nicer and more "classic" when paired with the magna grips I'm going to put on it.

My Model 38 was blued when I purchased it many moons ago. After several years of daily duty as my "Backup" on and off duty the finish was worn. My name was engraved on it (another sin I will have to answer for ) I had it refinished in polished chrome which looked like stainless steel. It and several other firearms was stolen from the locked trunk of my vehicle shorty afterwards. To this day, not one stolen firearm has been found.