Exchanging J-Frame cylinders . . .

ImDrRich

ImDrRich

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I've decided to buy an S&W 351PD in .22 WMR.

From reading threads here, I've learned that you can "chance" shooting .22lr in the .22 mag cylinder but there may be some difficult with case splitting and/or expansion and the resulting difficulty in case extraction.

Question: Why can't I purchase a .22lr cylinder for a J-frame S&W and swap it into the 351PD? Seems logical in terms of frame/cylinder size but I dunno if I'm seeing all the perils.

Please opine and comment. Thank you -

Rich
 
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Rich, you can't just swap or change out Smith and Wesson revolver parts. When a revolver is assembled at the factory most parts have to be fit so they properly interact with other parts. For an example, the cylinder stop has to be fit to the notches in the cylinder. Also the hand has to be fit to interact with the ratchets on the extractor, actually the ratchets have to be cut to properly line up with the hand. I can go on and on and give a brief reason why each part must be properly fit. Both cylinders would have to be the same size due to head space and the proper gap between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone on the barrel. If you still want an additional cylinder, contact Smith and see if they can provide one. Of course, you'll have to send the revolver to them for proper fitting if it can be done.
 
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Rich, I am not disputing what oldchief stated, as he is correct in many cases; but,...sometimes a cylinder switch IS, "just that easy".
Especially if you get one with yoke attached and a proper length extractor rod.

As simple as removing the front right side plate screw / yoke retention screw and putting the new cylinder assembly in place.

Even if you have to change out the extractor rod, provided you use proper procedures and tools, it still might go in place; index properly, have correct headspace and have cyl. to forcing cone dimensions in spec.
Note the ratchet star itself will seldom fit from one cylinder to the next, as they have location pin holes and chamfered edges drilled and fitted on each individual cylinder.

I would guess your other speculation as to using .22 lr in a .22 magnum cylinder has less of a chance of working than does a cylinder swap, provided you get a replacement cylinder assembly from a similar time era.....But, even THAT, (cartridge swap), is worth a try.
 
If the cylinder is the exact same length, and you only use the cylinder, and use the eame yoke, ratchet, ejector rod , etc. from the original it would probably work. I had a Pre Victory in 38 S&W and also a 38 special cylinder and they would swap back & forth. The key is to use the original ratchet, yoke, extractor rod etc.
 
While quite often cylinders will drop right in with no fitting at all, other times they will need the services of a good smith to get them properly fitted and aligned.

In the case of the 351 and the 43C one may have a problem as one is a 7 shot and one an 8 shot. I am not sure how this would effect timing if at all.

I have several guns which I have had second cylinders fitted to... Some droped right in and others had to be fitted.

Have two 60-10s that were made in the same year. I bought a brand new complete cylinder assembly to have rechambered to .38 Super. The cylinder dropped right into one but not the other. Did the same with a 3" 66-2..cylinder dropped right in..yet the cylinder would not go in a 65-3...

Best thing to do is contact a good Smith smith and ask them...

Bob
 
Sometime you may get lucky and parts will fit and interact with each other but this is the exception rather than the rule. My general advice is, that unless you've had the proper training and know what you're doing, check with a good pistol smith or the factory before attempting to swap out parts on a revolver.
 
I purchased an LEO trade in 649 in .38 Special from a local dealer. I am not sure where it came from but I believe it may have came from Puerto Rico because they had several revolvers from there hitting the market at that time.

I then picked up a cylinder from a Model 60, that was un-fluted, from the for sale section here. I had that cylinder cut for moon clips and 9mm usage by TK Customs.

I then had a local gunsmith swap out the cylinders and it works like a charm. It seems to work fine with non-plus P 9mm and I figure the non-fluted variety might give it a little more stamina. He just had to adjust the timing, etc.... but said that anytime I want to drop the other cylinder back in I can do so without having to adjust a thing.

And I still have the original cylinder if I feel the need to go back.
 
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