Hey everyone,

I bought a brand new 29-10 with a 4" barrel the other day. Took it to the range and put approx 40 rounds through it. Went home to clean it and found leads marks on the front of the cylinder. I thought the bluing had burnt off, but I did some reading (on this forum) about how this is somewhat normal and the issue is the front sight screw closest to the forcing tube is the culprit the this happening (something, something, something, hot gasses, etc)

My question(s) is/are: Has anyone sent their gun back to Smith to have this issue resolved? If so, what did they do to fix it and did it actually fix the issue? Or has anyone just swapped the screw themselves and fixed the issue?

I spoke with Smith on the phone and they knew what I was talking about and said they would send me a screw to fill that little gap and it wouldn't void the warranty if I put it in myself. At the same time I did send them some pictures and they said that I should probably send it back.

I was devastated when this first happened, but after some cleaning (lightly with a pencil eraser, Hoppes #9, q-tips, and some Ballistol) it cleaned everything up.

I attached some pictures of what it looked like after I shot as a reference of the severity of the lead marks.

I'm on the fence about what I should do. I really don't want to send my new gun back, but I want the issue to be fixed right. At the same time, if I can fix it myself, then I wont need to send it back.

Thanks guys!

Attached Images

	SW Lead Marks 1.jpg (30.5 KB, 413 views)
	SW Lead Marks 2.jpg (36.4 KB, 443 views)

I saw this video that Fortunecookie45LC made regarding that exact same issue (but 27-10). He tried to fill the screw hole with JB weld, but it did not work, so it does seem like S&W has at least come up with a viable solution.
S & W M27 357 Magnum Classic Has A Character Flaw - YouTube

Usually that is a result of the screw not being flush with the bottom of the topstrap. The hole left by a short screw concentrates the lead and powder in that area. That is a rear sight screw, btw.

wow, the forcing cone looks tiny compared to the old school model 29s...what is with that? Put a screw in there and take it out when you need the warranty. Since when does a cap screw screw the warranty. The whole situation does not sound well thought out at all.

Odd that they would want you to send it back after offering to send you another screw.

Honestly, I cannot believe such a minor thing is even considered an issue. However evidently enough folks have whined to S&W about it that they are offering a free fix, without even the inconvenience of sending the gun in. Take them up on it!

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Pisgah

I've used Forster blued screws from Brownell's to fill that screw hole. Even then, with a flush fit, there's still a little "gap" around the screw. This is enough to still scour a little half circular mark on the cylinder but it's a big improvement over the marks from the original recessed screw. This affects all of my "Classics" except a Model 10, but I bought them to shoot. It's minor enough with flush screws that i'm ok with it.

Just consider what is happening to cause these scortch marks. With magnums, the bc gap emits a plume of incandescent gas at 30,000+ psi at 1500C or more. it's brief, but very intense. Earlier guns without the screw there also blast the cylinder with these gasses but the flat surface of the top strap creates a diffuse, fan shaped area of burned powder on the cylinder that easily comes clean. That screw hole really changes the hydrodynamics of that gas plume.

Go ahead & install the screw S&W offered to send you. A longer screw will eliminate most of that but you'll likely still have some residue, which will be much easier to clean.

A blue .200" diameter Forester slotted oval head screw, 6-48 x 3/16" is usually just a little too short. The next longer size I found, at MidwayUSA, is 6-48 x 1/4" (#590604) & is a hair too long but can easily be filed flush to the inside frame strap virtually eliminating that blast spot on the cylinder.

The only problem these screws have is the angle of the screw's head doesn't quit match the bevel in the rear sight's leaf body & they stick up a tad. Just keep the old screw when you want that "fitted" look.

Forster Slotted Oval .200 Diameter Head Screws - UPC: 197706590604

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Waiting for the break of day

Guess I am too "Old School".
Just use a suitable solvent for the new "Blueing" on it and scrub off with a GI nylon brush.
If there is a little left over, live with it.
But that's just me.

Hello all,

Quick update on the my 29-10:

1) I installed the screw that Smith sent me and it made a huge difference. There's not nearly as much lead deposit on the cylinder as there was before.

2) Iosso Gunbrite (in the camo tube) takes all of the lead off of the cylinder without ruining the bluing. I was surprised at how well it worked. I don't use it every time after shooting, but when I want to get the lead off it works really well. Using the wax on/wax off method with a cloth takes seconds for it to clean everything off. I highly recommend it.

3) I put a coat of Renaissance Wax on the gun and it also made a difference in how easily the lead wiped off the gun without and solvent or cleaner. As a bonus it all made the bluing look darker and shinier. It also allows me to just wipe off the lead after shooting without having to use the Gunbrite every time.

Thank you for all of the replies and help with my issue. I had a lot of heartache over this and I'm relieved that the screw worked as well as it did.

This post was very helpful thank you! How long did it take for the screw to come? I have the issue with the marks on my cylinder they look identical.

I can't quite figure out why Smith just cannot make the screw long enough to meet the bottom of the topstrap. I have several Smiths that are drilled and tapped, but none of the screws come to the bottom of the topstrap.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

You have to make the screw length very accurate to just come to the bottom. You have a lot more latitude on length if they are just "up in there" somewhere.

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protocalldesign.com

Another reason to love my ruger RedHawks. I haven’t fired my new s&w m29-10 yet. I guess I’ll get a screw first.

Is it just the m29-10 or all the new n frames have the same defect.?

It's not an N frame issue. It is the result of the screw hole that holds the newer adjustable rear sights to the frame. Any gun with the newer (rounded front) adjustable rear sight might suffer from this condition. Older guns with the squared front on their adjustable rear sight generally do not suffer from this condition because the screw hole is further forward and not over the cylinder. And of course fixed sight guns have no screw hole and this is not an issue.