How can I reduce the trigger pull on my 66-8?

lbm

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How can I reduce the trigger pull weight on my model 66-8 without having failure to fires?
 
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Changing the trigger rebound spring will help reduce the double action trigger pull. You can also turn the mainspring strain screw out a turn or so and that will help reduce the pull and shouldn’t cause light strikes. A new lighter mainspring can also reduce the pull.
 
If you want to back off the strain screw, you will need to secure it with blue Loctite or it will keep unwinding as you shoot, eventually causing light strikes. You can also bend the mainspring forward and keep the strain screw tight to lighten the mainspring tension.
 
You can get a spring kit and change the single action(SA) and double action(DA) to a point.
The rebound slide springs change the SA. Stock is usually around between 4.5-5#s . You can tune safely down to a 2.5#. Anything below that- you can risk Barney Fife-ing it at the range and risk having a hair trigger you can't control. Although I do have a 686 that has a 2.25#SA trigger;its quite liveable.
The mainspring controls the DA. Replacing it, in itself, will not notice have a huge noticeable difference and must trim the strain screw to properly fit one. Although they may just drop in- no great rewards will be noticed without the use of a trigger pull gauge and a grinder! Here, 8.5#s will set off most primers manufactured and I've gone down to a 6.5# DA on my pro gun using a cylinder and slide extended firing pin.
So if you want to tune the SA, Wolff and Wilson Combat sell springs you can just replace. Most people CAN do that by themselves. Tuning DA takes a little more patience and MAY require a gunsmith, depending on your skills. I'm sure there are YouTube videos with tutorials that might show you how to do it if you want to tackle one. It's not a difficult job to do.

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I use the Wilson Combat spring kits. You can order them from midway USA. Not affiliated but they work.
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You can also turn the mainspring strain screw out a turn or so and that will help reduce the pull and shouldn’t cause light strikes.

If you want to back off the strain screw, you will need to secure it with blue Loctite or it will keep unwinding as you shoot, eventually causing light strikes.

Don't do this. The strain screw is meant to be fully tightened to the frame.

Spring kit is the way to go.
 
Lots of dry and live fire to smooth it out, and you won't notice the pull weight as much. Or a trigger smoothing job if you're impatient.
 
Don't do this. The strain screw is meant to be fully tightened to the frame.

Spring kit is the way to go.
^^^ this is good advice. Do not back out strain screw. Do not cut rebound slide springs!(I've tried. You can one or two coils. Three and you risk rebound slide not fully resetting. I speak from experience. )
Strain screw must be tight. No exceptions! This screw can loosen on it's own creating light primer strikes. Then bullets wont go off. If it ever loosens on it's own. Blue loctite.

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Get a GripMaster Pro (Amazon has 'em) and use it to strengthen your grip (esp fingers). AND dry fire your revolver a thousand times or so. Between the two you get a light, strong, and reliable weapon.
 
Call Denny Reichard @SAND BURR GUN RANCH (574-223-3316). Tell him you want the Deluxe Action job performed on it. When you get it back it will be 20-25% less and smooth as snot on a brass doorknob and still retain the stock springs. He test fires every revolver and records what the trigger pull ends up at. I've had three done by him and I COMPLETELY SATISFIED!!!!!
 
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Don't do this. The strain screw is meant to be fully tightened to the frame.

Spring kit is the way to go.

I wholeheartedly agree

I’ve lightened the double action pull on several S&W revolvers with a simple return spring change. The latest was on a 929 recently bought by another shooter (female). She had difficulty with the double action trigger pull compared to her 686 so I swapped the spring out on the range and the difference to her was significant.

As for the strain screw, when my 686-4 started to misfire on several different primer makes I installed a longer strain screw (8-32 X 1/2 UNC socket head). There was no noticeable increase in double action trigger pull and more reliability in primer strike.
 
I put in a softer trigger return sprig an backed off the strain screw until
I had light strikes. Then I turned the strain screw back in until I had consistent ignition.

I then measured how much of the head of the strain was sticking out., then ground that off the tip of the screw. Reinstall screw.

Worked nicely.
 
I once asked Wolff springs if any of their spring kits could improve the trigger pull on one of my 500 Mags. To digress, the gun has an excellent trigger but what enthusiast isn't interested in even better?

Wolff said the answer was no unless I was willing to take the risk of light strikes, so I didn't get the kit.

I'm no gunsmith but I'm sure a top notch gunsmith could improve the trigger of any S&W. Don
 
Have a good gunsmith do a trigger job. Specify whether it is a target gun only or if you might use it for personal defense. On a target gun a lite strike once in a blue moon is ok. It's a big no no on a self defense or carry gun.

While there are people who are competent to do their own gunsmithing I believe in paying professionals to do what they are trained to do when I need work done. If you aren't interested in becoming a professional in a field let them do their thing. I used to spend a lot of time in gunshops. I've seen more bubba gunsmith now needs fixing than really it just broke or wore out needed fixings. I made a lifelong deal w my favorite gunsmith he doesn't try to be a lawyer and I don't try to fix or modify my guns. It has worked well for both of us.
 
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The easiest way, that I learned from a youtube video by a retired S&W armorer, is to trim two coils off the trigger return spring. I've done this several times and it works well.

That said, I also always dry fire my guns a whole lot to smoothe the trigger surfaces. I find that about 1000 trigger pulls is the right number.

Finally, I have had very good luck with the Wilson spring kit and Apex XP firing pin.
 
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I have a 15-3 that I had done in 1979. All parts mirror polished, coil spring, and the cylinder air spun 25K revolutions with LIGHT polishing compound. Never felt anything like it, but this is not stock, but man is it slick
 
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