How to reduce trigger pull on a Model 17 Masterpiece .22lr?

[lordgantry]

Hi,

Does anyone here have experience with reducing the trigger pull on a a Model 17 Masterpiece .22lr? I have seen springs from Wolff. Both main springs and rebound springs. From what I understand a .22lr needs more force to ignite the rim fire cartridges. I've also heard that the original strain screw won't work well with the Wolff main spring. Still, straight out of the box the trigger pull is a bit heavy for a revolver that will be used as competition gun only. Anyone got it working with a lighter rebound spring and Wolff main spring type 1 (original power) or even type 2 (reduced power)? Any advice would be most welcome.

Best Regards,

Gantry

 

[Protocall_Design]

I prefer the Wilson Combat spring kits. I feel they have the better mainspring. I like Wolff springs too, though. They are both high quality.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Don’t do anything. Enjoy full reliability. A slightly lighter pull will really not make you a better marksman.

 

[Matt_X]

For what competition do you want to use it?
Does it need a cleaning?

Since making this video, this guy earned his Distinguished Pistol, Revolver, and .22. He loves his old K22 without mods for bullseye.
https://youtu.be/4ybBRMFgKQc?si=oeyjf-PFdx6kMRT2&t=408

 

[H Richard]

Stoning and proper lubricant, and possibly a recoil spring of 14 lb. That and using it enough to smooth it out. I've never had a problem with misfires that were the guns fault.

 

[Shotguncoach]

My best results so far have been from doing everything in a normal trigger job except reducing the hammer tension. If you smooth everything enough that you can use a 12 or maybe even an 11 pound rebound spring it will make a big difference and you'll still get reliable ignition.

 

[hardluk1]

Just understand that lighter springs may cause you to change ammo brands . Some are primed better than others .

I don't have a s&w in 22lr . Mine was a DW 22lr that came with a trigger pull just like my DW 15-2 357mag . 7lb 2oz DA pull and 2lb 2oz average SA pull , Goes bang every time since 1978 or 79.

For a s&w today I would use the APEX kit - Not just springs
, not cheap but it was developed for 22lr K frames and can reduce pull weight for both DA & SA pull and still be reliable . Look for owner written reviews or videos , but I added one to a K frame for a friends wife and you should be more than pleased with the results . On hers it gave a 7lb da pull and sa was 2lb 12oz but this was a new revolver with only a 10 rounds fired when her husband asked if the heavy trigger could be improved ! I t5rust apex kits and parts /
Attention Required! | Cloudflare

 

[stansdds]

Welcome to the S&W Forums. A reduced power main spring is the fast and easy way to get a lighter trigger pull, but it is also likely to result in failures to fire. Don't think that you can adjust the trigger pull by turning out the main spring's strain screw either, that's not even the purpose of that screw. A lighter rebound spring can lighten the trigger pull, but can also slow the reset of the trigger.

 

[series guy]

I have 2 617’s that I shoot regularly and have done the actions on at least a half dozen more for friends. They benefit from quality action work just like a center fire model. Stoning the contact surfaces and lapping the rebound slide as well as changing the springs and using a set screw to adjust mainspring tension will result in a modern revolver with the feel of a well worn K22 Masterpiece. You may have some issues with the cheapest bulk ammo but if you are shooting a high quality revolver you shouldn’t be using that junk anyway.

 

[Yendor357]

Hook the first joint of your trigger finger over the trigger.

If you reduce springs, you’re asking for misfires in a cartridge that is already notorious for misfires.

 

[mogwan]

Lighter Trigger for M17

I just did a 'new' M19 last night. Remember- the rebound block spring ONLY affects the trigger return speed. too light of a spring and you can 'outrun' the cylinder... 12 to 14 lb should be fine for that spring.

I found no problem with the Strain Screw on the mainspring using a Wolff #2 reduced tension spring. In fact, it seems that S&W use Wolff #2 'ribbed' mainsprings when a revolver goes to their 'Custom Shop"....

If you have about 2-4 hr, the correct tools and patience, you can file, stone and polish all reciprocating surfaces to your heart's content (within reason) and you may get an add'l 1/2 lb of lightness (equivalent to shooting 500-1,000 rounds?)

For a quick job, you'll have to resort to the old (OK Everyone Groan) Bubba trick of shortening the strain screw or bending the spring-just a real little for less tension. If you go the strain screw route, be sure to have a spare strain screw on hand. The 'new' guns apparently use a shorter screw than the pre-safety hole ones. If you try bending the mainspring and screw it up, you'll still have the original spring if you ordered a Wolff #2 reduced power mainspring.

On a M19 I was able to go from around 11-12 lb DA down to around 8-81/2 lb. And yes-a .22 will need about 1-3 lb more tension than a centerfire and the new guns seem a bit more difficult to get the poundage where you like them. I was also surprised to see a $1000 "Custom Shop" M19 with so little done to it internally.. The rebound block was not smoothed or edges broken- the trigger had a burr on it hitting the frame, and other minor issues you wouldn't expect from a hand-worked gun.

also remember with rimfire ammo you'll always get the occasional FTF- and after you think you're done, test the m17 with at least 4 different brands of ammo. You may find Federal to be softest brass and most reliable.

If you're still unhappy, see if S&W make a longer firing pin and find a competent gunsmith to install it.