Switched to CCI mini mags and seemed to eliminate the previously experienced failures to fire. Then switched to CCI swamp people 36 grain hp thinking it was the same thing (got a killer deal on a pile of the boxes). The last two times to the range, I have had difficulty getting the rounds to extract. Have to use more force on the extraction rod than I would like. Any idea as to the differences and why the rounds are getting stuck in the cylinders? I did clean the revolver pretty well between range trips.

Call Smith & Wesson and explain what's happening. I had to ream my cylinders to get them to stop binding after two or three reloads. Now I can shoot and entire Steel Challenge Match, about 40 reloads with no problem.

reamer/flex-hone

I got the clymer .22 revolver finishing reamer for my 617 10 shot.
the bar code is 184051220 , I think i got it from brownells

fixed the problem with extraction , you cant make a mistake as long as you follow correct practices using proper amout of cutting oil and not turning backwards (counterclockwise ) the tool bottoms out and your done, I than polished mine with flitz.

no problems , does not affect accuracy .

I also cut a forcing cone into it with the 11 degree cutter and hone and solved the lead spitting problem .

if your gun was used maybe someone was dry firing it and peened the holes a little.

I was looking for one of my tools yesterday and found my finishing reamer that I lost a couple of years ago. It was the best investment I made for my 617. I also did the forcing cone and the crown.

My 617 is my favorite gun. Trigger pull is down to 6.5 lbs double action. No more single action.

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I used a wooden dowel of slightly less diameter than a 22 casing and super glued some 320 grit wet-dry around it the length of a 22 casing. It snugged in and I turned it by hand a couple minutes in each chamber. Then I turned a cleaning patch with a bit of Mothers Mag polish to the same length for another couple minutes in each.

After another range session, the casings came out mucgh easier, but they were still a bit of a burden after 4 or 5 reloads, so I repeated the process.
It turned out a complete success. And I didn't screw anything up!

I’ve had a Manson finish reamer for 9 months, never used it until today. I should have done it 9 months ago.
Not a lot of metal was removed, my chambers weren’t THAT bad but after 40 rounds they got snug enough where I had to whack it good with my hand. Always used to brush them every 30.
Reamer worked easy and fast. Again, i didn’t have half as much as other people’s if you google ream 22 chamber.
Took me 30 minutes for my 617.
I did the whole polishing deal, .243 brush at the range, whacking it with my hand carefully to not bend the rod, and I’ve had enough. I want to just shoot it and not worry about it anymore.
Manson or clymer 22 long rifle finish reamer for cylinders is what you want. Do it and be done. It’s not hard, the reamers are self piloting too, so you can’t **** it up. Well you can if you don’t clean the chips out of it enough and twist it counter-clockwise, and even cut the face of the cylinder because you didn’t stop reaming when the shoulder hits. A 10 year old can do it.

The odd thing is that I don't recall this being an issue before. I purchased the revolver 8 years ago used and I don't recall it being an issue w/ cheap bulk or even cci minimags. It only became an issue w/ the Choot Em ammo. I have done some reading and think it might be the wax that is on this particular bullet.... not sure.

I was able to fix the same issue on a new 617 just by cleaning each chamber with multiple passes of an aluminum cleaning brush. So far so good with multiple ammo types , a huge difference. Will get the reamer many have suggested or just contact S&W if needed, but good to go for now