Every moving part on my 629 Dlx has been so smooth and, well just amazing. Best of any of many revolvers I've owned or touched. The hammer especially, just so pleasurable to pull back. Cylinder just spins and spins.

My model 10 (NOS from '90) has always been tighter. Still smooth and terrific to shoot, but not silky like the 629.

I treated both exactly the same way for cleaning and lubing - Hoppes #9. All I've ever used. Anyway, I got a hair and switched over to Ballistol. Night and day difference. The 629? You can spin the cylinder, go have a sandwich, come back and it'll still be spinning. 🤠

But what really I'm happiest with is the improvement to the model 10. I'm especially feeling it in the hammer. Very nice.

I think the heavier viscosity of the Ballistol just works better for mine?

Ballistol is amazing stuff, my only issue with it is that odor, which is extremely unpleasant fresh from the can. Fortunately, it smells better over time once it has settled.

If only they could combine the cleaning power of Ballistol with the non-toxic, minty fresh scent of Frog Lube, then it would be the ultimate gun cleaning/lubricant solution on the market.

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Shooting Comfort is bilateral.

Ballistol is my take-to-range lubricant. It's great.

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Come and take it!!

I've never used Ballistol for gun cleaning, but it's good for other things and you get used to the aroma of dirty feet.

It's funny, my wife likes the smell of it better than the Hoppes. Go figure!

But yep, the smell fades pretty fast.

I've never tried using Hoppes #9 as a lube, only as a bore cleaner.

#9 does not work well as a rust preventer- one of the officers in my department cleaned his Airweight J-frame thoroughly and then wiped it down with #9 and started carrying it. A week later, the cylinder & barrel had rust freckles.
I took a "white" barrel from a Hi Power that was pristine, slobbered it up with #9, and left town for two weeks. When I came home the #9 still covering the barrel, was turning brown because the steel underneath was rusting.

"I treated both exactly the same way for cleaning and lubing - Hoppes #9."

I've never thought of Hoppes as a lubricant and I don't think that it's marketed as such. Perhaps I'm missing something here, but I find a good gun grease the best way to lubricate the high friction parts in either a revolver or semi auto.

For rust protection, RIG is pretty good for long term storage and Birchwood Casey Sheath is good for light duty for carry guns or storage in a dry area.

I've never liked the aroma of Ballistol, but if my wife would have used Hoppes as a perfume, I'd have married here much sooner.

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Keep your powder dry.

That mineral oil in Ballistol is what they used in refrigeration/AC compressors. It doesn't gum up at very cold temps. It's great on leather and wood, too. Before I found Ballistol, I'd use refrig. oil to break in softball gloves, tool pouches, etc. Worked great.

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Waiting For The Sun.

Hoppe's love potion is strictly a solvent. One must still follow up with a lubricant for moving parts or overall for storage. Ballistol is a coal oil derivative that the Germans whipped up that is probably one of the first CLPs ever made. I've come to appreciate it overall.

FWIW, I had a correspondence with master barrel maker Wil Schumann back in 2001 after reading an article in the now defunct but wonderful magazine Precision Shooter in which he and some other barrel makers, silhouette and long range shooters analyzed barrel wear of brushes, solvents and oils. Bottom line, and a conclusion I've come to follow over the years with excellent results, is that it's best to not use solvents or metallic brushes in bores you care about. Keep your chambers clean to ensure feed reliability. Use Strictly oil, perhaps JB bore paste to remove leading if necessary but leave your barrels alone. They'll foul up to a point then stop. It's proven itself to me over two SIG P series self loaders with over 10k rounds through each of them over the years, the third with over 12k before I was forced to swap it for a G19M. Same with my issue carbines. Perhaps once or twice a year I'll scrub the bores using Mili-tec1 or Ballistol and JB just because and my pieces show as good and better accuracy compared to my colleagues who scrub the snot out of their guns with brushes and Rem oil and/or Hoppe's.

As others have pointed out, Hoppes #9 is not a lubricant, it is strictly a solvent designed for removing powder residue and there is a small amount of ammonia to aid in dissolving copper jacket deposits.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Mineral spirits to remove powder residue, lube with a minimal amount of mineral oil. Cheap and effective.
Mineral oil also dissolves powder residue so it's a CLIP. But there are certain places where lube isn't needed or desired, so the mineral spirits.
My remaining use for ballistol is a 1:9 dilution with water for rinsing the barrel after corrosive ammo.

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To cannon, all men are equal

In defense of the OP, Hoppes is now marketing both CLP and gun oil using the "Hoppe's #9" designation. Back in the day, everyone knew that #9, in addition to a scent that drives the gals wild, was only a solvent. Now, all bets are off.

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Only a cold warrior

She doesn't like the smell, you spend too much time in the garage all by yourself. So sad, it doesn't have to be this way.

Now this comes to the rescue:

Ballistol Romantic...

Wellness-"Ol | Wellness K"orperpflege-"Ol | Mensch | Produkte | BALLISTOL

#9 is a solvent - not a lubricant. Use the #9 to clean and the Ballistol to finish up with, although there are better options for a lubricant.

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S&W factory revolver armorer

The 'original' formula Hoppe's 9[ the aftershave of choice by knowledgeable shooters] has evolved with their newer offerings. The original was fine in its time but there are many that are now better at removing powder & copper- IMO.

I also use just JB and oil, usually Kroil, for cleaning barrels. However, on the cylinders of a revolver I use a brush. I do use Hoppe's #9 for wiping powder residue off various firearms/parts but always follow it with some oil. I have never heard of anyone using #9 as a lubricant...

To me, it's worse than dirty feet. It honestly reminds me of skunk roadkill, a potent yet vile mixture of skunk spray and rotting flesh.

However, after a short while, after it has been out in the open air for awhile, Ballistol's odor seems to combine with ambient scents in the environment and become more pleasant.
Last year I soaked a rusted out Tokarev magazine in Ballistol to remove the rust and sat it in my kitchen inside of an open container, when I returned later to check on it, the Ballistol's scent had combined with the scent of fresh baked goods in my kitchen to form a rather pleasant scent.

I've never used Hoppes #9 because I only really got into firearms back in 2015, and by that time Hoppes #9 was widely regarded as an older cleansing solution which was inferior to modern CLPs, so I used Frog Lube and later Ballistol, and both worked so well that I had no reason to bother with Hoppes.

That said, obviously neither is perfect. Frog Lube smells great and is non-toxic, but unless you follow the instructions EXACTLY during application, then it turns into rubber cement. Ballistol is an excellent cleaner/lubricant, but smells awful, is hazardous to your health if sprayed in a closed-in area, and turns into a vile brown sludge if left out in the air for too long.

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Shooting Comfort is bilateral.

Have any of you used Gunzilla BC10. I purchased some at a show several years ago and love the stuff. I have ordered it several times since and have recommended it to others. It just works great and has a very pleasant smell that the wife likes much better than Hoppies. It has been my go to CLP for a few years now.

Ballistol mixes with water; mineral oil does not. I don't know what is in Ballistol, but it is not mineral oil.

Great stuff though, once the stench goes away.

Ballistol is plant based. It's also skin safe. The only gun cleaner I know of that is.

Ballistol when used makes me cough. So I use other stuff.

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S&W Accumulator

I use Ballistol, almost exclusively, on all my weapons. Smell isn't great, but there is nothing in it that's harmful to humans, at least externally.
There is even medical grade Ballistol, although I don't have any. I have used regular Ballistol on my dried-out, cracked, hands, in the winter. It works wonderfully. YMMV.
Here's a link to their FAQ page:FAQs - Ballistol

Wrong. Per msds specs it contains medical grade mineral oil

I assumed when I read his post that surely he was talking about the Hoppe's #9 gun oil, but maybe the OP can clear that up for us. I've been happy with the Hoppe's gun oil. It's a bit more viscous than Rem Oil and stays "wet" where as Remoil tends to "dry".

Marvel Mystery Oil is an excellent cleaner as well as a lubricant . You can get a quart bottle for about $8-$10 . That's enough to last almost a lifetime . My fiance's 06 van , with about 150K miles was using a lot of oil . About 4-5 quarts between oil changes . After adding Marvel Mystery Oil to 2 tanks of gas , it has completely stopped using oil . The oil rings had carboned up and were stuck , but not any more . When it comes to lubricants only , I remember when a gunsmith always had either a can of sewing machine oil or a can of 3-1 oil sitting on his bench , so do I .

Gents - I'm referring to the Hoppes 9 Lubricating Oil which should be a fair comparison to Ballistol. Bottle describes it as 'Lubricating Oil' with 'High Viscosity and Penetration'.

Now having said that, I START with the Hoppes #9 Solvent, but I have always finished with the oil.

Now, I'm thinking I may just use Ballistol for everything. I've got the regular can, but I think I'm going to use the spray too for more penetration.

Marvel's! I had forgotten all about it. I used it in many vehicles over the years. I used to swear by it, but never thought of it for my firearms.

You are correct indeed good sir. I clarified it in another post.

Thanks!

Mystery oil is a light mineral oil with Stoddard solvent. Nothing mysterious about that.

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To cannon, all men are equal

Years ago, I started using Hoppe's because it was available on the store shelf. Eventually I realized it wasn't really stellar at much of anything and guys used it mainly to feel like part of the club. Today, I use Ballistol as a general lubricant and as a solvent on my guns with a nickel finish. Along the way, I also learned that it wasn't neccessary to slather the whole gun with solvent and I now use very little of it.

Ballistol is a good CLP, but if I am to use it I do it in a well ventilated area because I hate the smell, it actually taste better than it smells. I usually use Ballistol Gunex for cleaning and light lubrication and or Ballistol Guncer if I know I will have a long day at the range with lots of shooting.

But I do like to use Ballistol when cleaning rubber grips or giving a wood stock a light clean.

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Hello darknes my old friend

I just can't understand why there's all this angst about the scent of Ballistol. I just don't find it at all unpleasant, let alone 'smelly', LOL.
Believe me, my feet could make one's eyes water after a long day.
However, that's more of an ammonia smell, much like what's in Sweet's.
Now THAT **** I detest, LOL.

Please explain how mineral oil will mix with water.

Marvel Mystery oil is often imitated but never duplicated . Regards Paul

Perhaps she’s just acclimated to the smell of your dirty feet.

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213th FBINA

Hehe! I've been thinking the same thing Victor. I mean, it's not like we have to swim in it, wash with it, or otherwise slather it all over our skin! If you like the way it performs, but don't like the smell, don't worry - it fades (the scent that is) very quickly.

Ha! Funny guy! But sorry, no smelly feet on this guy.

Paul in Texas

It was more or less handed down to me as a solvent. I got used to the smell (which I like) and then just added the oil, or would receive it as a gifts. I don't think (know) there's anything bad about it, I just think there's better out there, and I believe that Ballistol meets that need for me. I clean and lube my guns so often that it really doesn't matter what I use frankly.

Just like folks have said about changing their motor oil, it really doesn't matter, as long as you do it regularly (please, let's not start a motor oil war!).

Having said that, and per my original post, the Ballistol has really loosened-up the action of some of my revolvers - and I'm quite happy about that.

And that's all folks!

Paul in Texas

Ballistol is plant based. No petroleum products. It does mix with water and looks like milk. No mater the concentration any steel part left in the water mix will never rust.

I use only Filippo Berio, extra virgin.

It used to be on every gunsmiths bench, right near the vinegar.

I ran a quart of it through the gas tank in my pick-up, and salad came out the exhaust.

It smells good too.

Like everyone above has said, Hoppes 9 is a solvent and not intended on being a lubricant or rust preventative as it's primary goal.

I have never used Balistol however since it's been around for over 100 years I would think it is a fine product. As far as smell goes, that is a personal thing. Most love the Hoppes scent - some hate it. I've heard many times that people dislike the smell of Balistol while some actually have no issue with it.

The major advantage is that Balistol is much safer to use as it contains much friendlier chemicals. Balistol is probably one of the only major gun chemicals I have not tried yet - one of these days I will ......

I’ve been a Ballistol guy for about 10 years, but I still love the fragrance of Hoppes

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Some Might Say.

I've done this lubrication dance a thousand times. For what it's worth, here's my observations. It's hard to go wrong if you use something that has a national stock number. If it keeps a SAW running in Afghanistan, it will keep my gun running while I shoot up the sand bank at the gun club. A friend of mine, who actually had to depend on his weapon to keep him alive in Iraq, turned me on to M-Pro7. The gun cleaner works lights out and when combined with a bronze brush, removes the black rings on a cylinder face better than anything I have used. (Side note: Go easy on blued guns with the bronze tooth brush.) Their LPX gun oil is a CLP that is used with the gun cleaner and can be used by its self for light cleaning. I also have a tube of their grease that I use on high friction parts and it works as good as RIG, which is saying something. To each his own, but I could never understand the utility of mixing up a home made cleaner/lube. Mix 2 parts ATF with 1 part motor oil, one tablespoon of local honey and save 2 dollars by not having to buy a bottle of Break Free. It's not for me, thank you. While I'm up on the soap box, I an going to mention Frog Lube. Apologies to those of you who like it, but Frog Lube is the devil's sperm! I fell for their slick (pun intended) advertising and tried it. At first everything was good and I really liked that it was dry to the touch. During an IDPA match, I noticed that my 1911 was very sluggish going back into battery. When I looked closer, it looked like it had been cleaned with maple syrup! It had started off dry to the touch. My gallery gun had to go to a smith to have it's trigger group disassembled and the sludge removed. And yes, I followed the directions to the letter. $75 worth of minty smelling soybean oil went into the trash. DON'T USE IT!

I use the orginal USGI RIFLE BORE CLEANER it comes in metal cans. I use the USGI LIGHT WEAPONS OIL for the bores. Everything else gets the moly treatment. For storage it’s the G96.

I hadn’t opened one safe in a decade +. (Cancer) I wiped them down, sprayed them with G96 wrapped them in s&w parchment paper and in the case they went. Fearing the worst they all look great.

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Plant garlic in the fall

Now, if you ask me that G96 is about the best smelling stuff around and it’s worked great as a quick cleaner/lube at the range and home if I’m pressed for time.
If I can get some G96 on a gun I’ve used I don’t worry about rust until I get a chance for a detailed cleaning.
Hopped#9 and G96 make a pretty effective one-two team for clean & lube.

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“Look life in its iron face”

Remember back when Hoppes #9 was about the only cleaner unless you had some GI bore cleaner? Dont remember my mother complaining about it but my wife sure did. Have found that the el cheapo carb. spray cleaner at wally world works very well, just spray it outside , remove grips and use brass tooth brush and bore snake for bore and cylinders. Follow up with wipe down with Kroil. Long term storage CLP has worked well. Had a gallon given to me by NG Lt years ago when their unit was checking out of training , he found that it was not on his books.

My first can of Ballistol was back in the early 80’s when I ran into a guy trying to talk a local gun store into handling the product. He failed but I followed him out to the parking lot and talked his product to death. I bought three cans one still unopened.

If you have the old mix as found in the can below be aware that it will attack your brass over time. I actually ruined about twenty 45-70 cases where the mouths dissolved and wouldn’t hold cast bullets. I stored them in a container with a paper towel wet with ballistol. Cases got so thin you could easily crush the mouth with your fingers. The new stuff won’t do that

Attached Images

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Have a read on surfactants and emulsifiers.

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- Post No Bills -

I'm not a chemist , but I will tell you this . The black powder boys has been mixing it with water for eons and calling it " moose milk " . The usual mix rate is about 7 parts water to 1 part Ballistol . They soak patches in it for cleaning the barrel and the chambers on the cylinders of revolvers . They spray down the outside parts with it . So yes , it does mix with water . Regards Paul

Ask 10 guys about which cleaner/lubes to use and you’ll get 11 opinions lol. Been using MPro7 as a cleaner longer than I can remember and Break Free CLP as a lube on every type of firearm imaginable, all finishes as well.

I noticed my revolvers felt smoother after I started using Break Free. If you’ve never handled a new in the bag 1911 from Les Baer his pistols are soaked in it.