So I've shot a few matches recently with my 327 r8, a steel challenge and some uspsa. It was a great time, but I can clearly see that if I want to carry on with revolver class in these matches Ill need a trigger lightening. I'm not sure what the r8 is stock, I haven't measured it yet, but I assume 11-12lbs. Ive just gotten used to it by this point.

I want to start looking in to a trigger lightening but Im not exactly sure where to start. I thought about getting the apex lightened hammer kit, but also considering a wolf reduced power main spring.

How much can I reliably lighten without the need of federal primers, as seems to be the accepted wisdom of lightened triggers. I have yet to find any federal primers, and have a boatload of CCI because that's all thats been for sale lately.

Evolution IV Revolver Hammer Kit

Wonder how much their "duty spring" would lighten up and still give me reliable strikes? Id assume the competition spring would induce some light strikes without federal primers.

Beyond that, Id need a different main spring and assortment off strain screws to mess with?
https://www.gunsprings.com/SMITH%20&...D58/dID264#447
Thoughts about getting the wolf "shooters pack" with a few different strengths of main spring, as well as a few different rebound spring strengths.


My fear is that I do all this work, and the trigger is fantastic, but I dont have the right primers to feed the gun correctly. Id appreciate any wisdom on this, thanks.

My personal opinion is that no handgun should be lightened up to the point where only one certain primer will work. As you presently know, they won't always be available. A perfectly good trigger can be done that will handle CCI and Winchester primers.

The finely tuned triggers will fail, and always at the "wrong time". You should be able to get a 8-9 lb trigger that sets off CCI primers.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I’ve had excellent luck with Wilson Combat spring kits.

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- Post No Bills -

Ah ok thats kind of what I had in mind. I figured after using this 11-12lb trigger for like 8 years, that I would notice a nice difference going to even 9lbs and still maintaining reliablity. But how do I achieve "just" 9lbs and not overshooting that? Can I still bob the hammer with the apex kit and use a wolf reduced power kit or will that go way too low?

I've heard Jerry Miculek say several times that his revolver has a 10lb DA pull so he doesn't "over run" the targets.

I'm with H Richard I wouldn't lighten it too much.

Me I have to stop on each plate before shooting but, I have AFOM.

A fear of missing!

Years ago when I was building comp revolvers it was standard to set the main for Fed or WW primers. It wasn’t guesswork that CCI primer cups just took a couple more oz. of strike force to reliably ignite. A true or full action job will result in a better DA and SA trigger but it’s not the result of swapping a spring and playing with the main spring tension. A good non-stacking smooth competition DA trigger is the result of going thru the entire lock-work and all fitted surfaces to remove a little friction or weight here and a little there. So it’s cleaning up this accumulation of tolerances that yields the best action and trigger. Honestly a good or complete action job like this rarely fails to fire otherwise competitors would run you out of business.

I might add that there is nothing inherently fragile about a well done action job in fact reducing the amount of force needed to cycle the lock-work and rotate a loaded cylinder actually reduces wear and tear especially frame studs, pins and especially ratchets.

All good points, but this is already a PC trigger thats 90% of the way there in smoothness and lack of snags in the trigger pull. This is more of a question of where do I turn to first to lighten the pull without overshooting the primers that I have on hand, and striking too light?

Jerry Miculek tells you what to do, and what not to do.
I have tuned all my competition revolvers using his method without any problems.
Gun Video Trigger Job: Complete Action Tuning S&W Revolvers Jerry

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

I did very light stoning on my R8 and Wilson springs. Used Jerry's trigger job DVD as a guide. Very happy with my R8 trigger now

I am not a gunsmith. I do a few minor things to my guns. I would start by changing the trigger rebound spring. Buy the kit that has 3 or 4 springs. I think they are 12,13 and 14 lb springs. Try the 14 and see if you get what you want. If no try the 13 and so on. Sounds like you have shot this revolver enough that it is smooth already. Polish the rebound slide while you have it apart.

Marketing good old American marketing, ain’t it great. Babe Ruth baseball bats, Quigley Sharps, and JM revolvers. Whatever works and if it makes shooting fun who can argue. But I know for certain most of you have never shot a revolver with a competition action job by one of the top gunsmiths. After two or three cylinder fulls you’ll be amazed. It’s a whole other level of performance.

Thanks, there are a couple different kits that have the main spring with 3 different rebound weights. I could try the rebound only at first, then maybe experiment with main spring after once I get the hang of this. Im debating also getting an extended firing pin to have on hand just in case, and also, maybe an extra strain screw? Or is the strain screw length generally the same no matter what main spring you try?

I've had good success with the WC kit. Used it in several revolvers including my 327pc.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Worst one I ever had was a PC TRR8 I bought for ICORE.
Sent it to a pro, who first shipped it back to S&W for correcting something major before even starting in on it,

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Maybe it's just coincidence, but it seems to me that reviews of the 327 PC models are less happy with the trigger pull than the reviews of the 627 PC. Has anyone ever compared the two to see if there is anything to this?

I expect that the interior components are the same, but there could be other factors in play, such as factory budgeting for time spent on the action vs. accessories, possible duty use, etc.

Oh I think as far as revolver triggers go its damn good. I have shot it this way for 9 years now. Love that gun. I just know in order to keep the pace in matches its probably best to lighten things up now.

I installed that hammer on a 327 snub awhile back. I also have a TRR8 that I compared it to. The Apex hammer with their duty rebound spring gave it a crazy light trigger but had severe light strikes. After a few trial and errors I resolved it by installing the Wolfe non-reduced power rib spring. For a defensive role I am very happy with the pull now. Very smooth and a strong hammer strike every time. Link below in case you find it helpful

327 PC DAO Conversion

How much , if any, would the apex hammer lighten the trigger without doing a reduced power main spring? just the rebound spring. did you take weights before/after?

At this point, the OP has likely already replaced the trigger rebound spring in his TRR8. However, if you haven't, this is just to let you know that I installed a 14 pound Wolf rebound spring in my TRR8 this morning. (I also watched Jerry M's youtube video.)

Just the rebound spring alone reduced the SA trigger pull by about a pound. It is now around 2.6-2.7 pounds as measured on my Lyman electronic gauge. DA pull is around 7.5 lbs (average). This is just where I wanted it.

FYI, my gun is about 4 years old and has, at most, 2000 rounds through it.

I just wish I could reduce the pull on my Browning Hi Power as easily, which is well over 8 lbs!

The best action job is done by cycling the action many thousands of times. Dry firing is one way and accomplishes many things. First, it smooths out the friction points in the action and mates them together. If done properly it also strengthens your grip and trigger finger. It teaches you how to stroke the trigger without disturbing the sights. It should also help you develop the ability to stop pulling the trigger when your sights wander off the target and resume when you are on target. Contrary to popular belief, you do not want to be surprised by the shot, you want to know the sights, Target and final 1/2 ounce of trigger pull all happen simultaneously so the shot is good.

All of my competition revolvers have full power springs but have been worked over to feel like they are frictionless.

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

I know I'm respong to a post from May, but specifically on an R8 or any PC gun, I would not mess with the trigger for at least 900-1k rounds. Where the double action trigger , set up from the performance center usually stays around 8-9 #'s. Enough to fire Winchester primers reliably and on one PC gun - enough to not strike CCI's reliably.
My advice is to leave it alone enough to loosen up the action and send it in if it ceases to fire your choice primer reliably.