Finally Plugged the Pug

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Finally got around to ordering a plug for my 327 PC. Showed up in the mailbox a few days later. Took about 30 minutes to install but I was taking my time not to scratch anything. I got the titanium version and I think it looks right at home.


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Thanks for the orders folks.

I dig the snubbys with Ti cylinders.

If you push it from the back it should sit flush. I had to make a choice when engineering them. There had to be a little tolerance to allow them to be installed. I chose to set the tolerance inboard so they do not extend past the frame and possibly drag or catch on the thumb piece.

217af124f84ffe33d2064f4b762fcafb
 
I believe 8 lock guns and they all have one of your plugs. The only "problem" I ever had was learning to get it lined up just right to go in the hole. They all look good doing it too.

Semper Fi
 
I believe 8 lock guns and they all have one of your plugs. The only "problem" I ever had was learning to get it lined up just right to go in the hole. They all look good doing it too.

Semper Fi

There's another trick to indexing them a fellow told me during a phone call one time. He takes a fine point sharpie and makes a line on the backside to use as the reference for clocking. Then just take a qtip with rubbing alcohol and clean the sharpie mark off before putting hammer back in.

I've never tried it but it sounds pretty slick
 
My 500 is the only bellybutton gun I have. Thought about plugging it, but having the gap along hammer would bother me as much as the bellybutton. Is there a way to eliminate both?
 
I think I own 2 with the locks. I'm lucky if I get to the range once a month lately, but I was shooting my 629-6 pretty often over the summer and the lock never did anything bad except if I was with someone I'd jokingly say the lock caused that shot (flyer.) Are these really a problem in a lot of guns or is it just for the looks? Also, on the stainless frames, can the little arrow be polished out? My 27-9 is back at the mothership after sending 18 or 24 .38 specials at paper; forcing cone chipped. I doubt I'll mess with the plug on it because it's a "blued" frame.
 
Plug

I used one of these kits to plug the lock hole on my 69. Worked great. I should order one and do my 637, too.
 
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I think I own 2 with the locks. I'm lucky if I get to the range once a month lately, but I was shooting my 629-6 pretty often over the summer and the lock never did anything bad except if I was with someone I'd jokingly say the lock caused that shot (flyer.) Are these really a problem in a lot of guns or is it just for the looks? Also, on the stainless frames, can the little arrow be polished out? My 27-9 is back at the mothership after sending 18 or 24 .38 specials at paper; forcing cone chipped. I doubt I'll mess with the plug on it because it's a "blued" frame.

While certainly not the norm with the lock... But I had an M625-8 that I was using as my go-to Woods Rig/Gun... Upon putting rounds downrange the first trip I was shooting what I carry... .45Super loads (got the OK from Smith themselves it's more than ok to do so beforehand) when about the 3rd or 4th Moon Clip reload that the DA trigger got progressively harder to pull over the next two cylinder's full until it got too hard to pull. That lock auto rotated under recoil and locked the action up I discovered once I got back home and on the bench. Also, the yoke screw, sideplate screws, and cylinder release screws were backing out and loose as well.

Installed JD's lock-delete and used a small dab of Purple Loctite on all screws and never had another problem out of the M625 no matter what loads I shot until I sold it to my brother. Of course, YMMV.
 
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