How much .357 use can a M60 take?

AlwaysArmed

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I have a newish Model 60 .357 with a 3 inch barrel and adjustable rear sight. S&W says it can take "continuous 38 Special +P use".
So, how much continuous. 357 magnum use can it take?
What are the symptoms of this revolver in distress?
Will S&W fix it under warranty?
Thanks,
AA
 
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I imagine quite a lot. You will wear out before the gun. The five shot has the cylinder stop notches offset from the chambers so in theory the 5 shot J cylinder is stronger than a 6 shot K.
I have always considered 357 in a J frame a silly endeavor anyway.
 
J-Magnums are Real 357s

Let's face it, a pocket sized 357 with tiny grips is not what you are going to take out for a FUN day at the range. It is a gun for when you turn down the wrong street and get into something unexpected. And obviously for practicing for that day

Clearly a pocket sized 357 Magnum is not for all shooters, we all need to know our limitations. But when you need lots of power in a small package there is not much else to compare. No matter the size of the firearm or the length of the barrel, 357 Magnum delivers noticeably more power than it's 38 brothers. There is nothing silly about wanting more power, especially if it is within your skill set to handle it.

NONE of my J-frames that say 357 Magnum on them have ever seen a round of any of the three less powerful cartridges fired in them while I own them

My 340 now has over 7000 full power 357 Magnums through it and is going strong

The 3" Model 60 Chiefs Special Target is a great little revolver. I have one of the 182 Lew Horton Small Hunters. I did add the Factory Rosewood grips to mine

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I have no idea how much ammunition has been through it as I am the second owner

The longer barrel and extra weight to help to offset the recoil of the 357 Magnum cartridge

The symptoms of a J-frame in distress is no different than a K, L or N frame. Smith & Wesson would not be selling a sub-standard product.

Warranty is for defects in materials or workmanship. This is traditionally offered only to the original purchaser.

Warranty is not for wear and tear issues

That being said, if you wear out your 3" Model 60 Chiefs Special Target by putting an HUGE amount of projectiles down range, I bet that the Factory would do something for you
 
Probably more rounds than most would be willing to subject their wrists. My 640-1 is now stoked with CCI Speer 135 grain JHP 38 Special +P Short Barrel ammo. It's easier to control and follow up shots come much faster than with full power 357 Magnum ammo, but it is nice to have the option of using 357 Magnum ammo.
 
That's one of those "If we make it, they will buy it." deals----doesn't make a whole lot of sense, but that's a minor detail. It all comes under the heading of "Some's good, more's better, and too much is just right!"

The bottom line is if the bad guy has a .22 pointed at you, don't be thinking you're going to prevail with a quick draw of your magnum. It ain't going to happen!

Ralph Tremaine
 
The cost of the ammo expended to cause timing issues/endshake, flame cutting on topstrap, etc. should be well past the cost of the revolver. How many rounds will depend on the type ammo used. Lighter weight 357 can cause more top strap cutting due to the blast, ie why smith warns against less than 120 gr bullets in the titanium cylinder revolvers as the blast can cut into the titanium cylinders quicker. Heavy weight boomers from buffalo bore/underwood, etc will slightly speed up the timing and endshake issues, as well. Moderate loads will take longer to wear. Granted a jrame is not an L frame, so trying to use the j frame as a competition shooter with magnum loads is not what it is designed for - so one will be dissatisfied with longevity for that use…
 
Something I've noticed with the J frames is that when pocket carried they are typically equipped with teeny tiny grips. Which makes them nearly useless for rapid fire shooting. Basically they are one shot and then re-grip pistols. Now throw the 357 magnum into the mix, then the question is can you keep the gun in your hand. Then there is the matter if all that sound and fury actually provides for a significant increase in velocity over 38 special. From a 1 7/8 inch barrel I don't think it does.

What it boils down to is simple, if you really need 357 Magnums then purchase a 3 inch model 60 and plan on equipping it with ugly rubber Hogue Combat Grips. Then if you carry do it in a IWB holster, NOT a pocket.

Now for the longevity question. The Steel J frames are pretty darned tough little guns. With 38 special they should last a very long time. However if you look at how thin the barrel extension going thru the frame is and how thin the frame is under the barrel and you will see the consequence of designing a revolver to be as light as is possible. Compared to a K frame at it's famous barrel flat you will see the J frame are even thinner in these critical areas. I just don't think the design is well suited for the 357 Magnum. Just because you can do something doesn't mean that you should do it. I would suggest only minimal use of 357 Magnums in any J frame.
 
"I have a newish Model 60 .357 with a 3 inch barrel and adjustable rear sight. S&W says it can take "continuous 38 Special +P use".
So, how much continuous. 357 magnum use can it take?
What are the symptoms of this revolver in distress?
Will S&W fix it under warranty?"


Great question.

For your peace of mind, I would adhere to S&W's guideline and stick with the .38 Special +P ammunition; however, I think you are good to go if you should choose to shoot the .357 magnum load sparingly. Meaning that your Model 60 is going to be ok so long as it's about two cylinders per range session. Hence, train with the 38 Special +P only and carry the .357 Magnum load of choice. That is how I see it. As always, don't forget to maintain your firearm after every range session.
 
As many .357 rounds as your hand, wrist, and bank account can stand!! But why? Any handgun when put under continued use with very strong ammo could malfunction or eventually break. A torture test on a small frame revolver with powerful rounds makes little sense to me. The older I get, the less I want to shoot many .357 rounds. A couple of cylinders in my 686 Mountain gun is enough for me.
 
Thank you for all the replies.
This is one of those guns that just felt right in my hands. I like round butt J and L frames. Never handled a round butt K frame.
I bought it for carrying OWB when I'm out and about in nature.
This revolver came with the S&W rubber grips and to be honest, it's not that bad. I've put 100+ 125gn. Remington hp rounds through it. The POI changes when using .38 +P so I sighted it in with the magnum loads. Definitely not a plinking round.
It fits a need well. I bought a lot of all the ammo I will ever use in my lifetime when it was relatively cheap. I have enough .357 Mag to see who gives up first. Maybe we'll see.
I'll let you know.
Thanks again,
AA
 
I only rarely shoot .357 out of my 3" 60, and when I do I use Pachmayr compact rubber grips. For .357 I need to have a covered back strap rubber grip, and Pachmayr compact (not compact pro) provided the best level of comfort and recoil tolerance. Almost always I'm shooting .38 with Altamont Altai grips. I don't know how much continuous .357 it could take. More than I'm willing to tolerate I know that.

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Lots of good information here. Thank you.

About two weeks ago I was working out my 38 Special 60–4 with Buffalo Bore 158LSWHP +P.

Don’t know how much more velocity the 357 generates with a 158, but the BB was completely tolerable, and accurate. Grips were factory J – bananas.
 
If you plan on shooting an extensive amount of .357 I hope that you reload. That’s the only way I can afford shooting. If you reload you can tailor your loads to get the best combination of accuracy and power. I never liked the crud ring you get shooting .38’s in a .357 so I shoot only .357 ammo in that caliber of gun. I have found that maximum velocity doesn’t usually produce maximum accuracy in a handgun. I have also found that the longer bearing surface of heavier bullets usually gives better accuracy. My loads bridge the area between .38+P and full blown .357. Shooting them is easier on me and the gun. Jacketed bullets and high velocity accelerate wear so I limit their use. Reloading makes shooting less painful on my hand and wallet. If I didn’t reload I would look at some of the hotter .357 cowboy ammo available and go with them for the target range. If you want to stick with factory full blown ammo regularly pick up a S&W 686 and enjoy it.

Best Regards,
ADP3
 
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