K Frame 357 mag loads

MP1518

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What are the most sensible carry factory loads for 80's vintage K frame 357 revolvers? 2.5 -3 " barrel length.
 
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Carry for... personal defense against potential human attackers?

Likely any premium 125 grain JHP. Always had a decent reputation.

Yes, these are hard on K-frame magnums, but a few ain't gonna do the deed. Practicing with many hundreds or thousands may be another story.
 
The full power 125 grain loads are the ones that are most likely to cause barrel forcing cone erosion and possibly crack the forcing cone. Modern JHP bullets often do not require such extreme velocity to achieve reliable expansion. Another benefit of a slightly reduced power load is less muzzle blast and flash and less recoil. For the K-frame 357's that have the flat spot on the bottom of the barrel extension, I'd recommend a reduced power 357 load using a 125 to 135 grain JHP.


The Remington 125 gr Golden Saber is an excellent 357 Magnum load with good penetration and expansion qualities and exits the muzzle about 200 fps slower than the classic 125 gr JHP load.


If you can find it, Speer's 135 gr Gold Dot Short Barrel 357 load is also a great performer and is less than full power.


Winchester's 125 gr PDX1 Defender is another excellent performing, reduced power 357 Magnum load.


If you really want a full power load, then Remington's 158 gr semi-jacketed hollowpoint is probably the best performing load for self-defense. It expands well and does not over-penetrate too badly.
 
They say today's factory .357 loads are not as hot as the "experimental" wild west days of the 1970s new and improved .357 125gr hollowpoints.

IMHO find a load you can shoot well and get a fast double tap with!

Even it that's a +P .38!!!
 
I recently read that in the late years of duty revolvers, the 140 gr .357 was overtaking the 125. I know that in the early days, Phil Sharpe showed the top loads with a 146 gr cast hollowpoint.

There aren't many choices, though. I think I would go with the Gold Dot 135 short barrel; I have the .38 version in my Bodyguard.
 
One big advantage revolvers have over auto loaders is they can easily handle semi-wadcutters. That sharp shoulder starts punching through flesh immediately while the hollow points slip through and the have to go in several inches before they reach their full size. A good semi wadcutter hollowpoint achieves the best of both worlds and I always like to 158 grains in 38 and 357s.
 
For street use I used Buffalo Bore #20A which is a 158 grain +P 38 spl. In a 2" Chief's it moves out at over 1025 fps and close to 1100 fps from 3" bbl. (magnum territory for a 158 grain projectile).

While in the woods I'd carry a M65 3" bbl. stoked with Buffalo Bore 180 HCLSW 357 magnum. They would exit the 3" bbl at over 1300 fps.
 
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There aren't many choices, though. I think I would go with the Gold Dot 135 short barrel; I have the .38 version in my Bodyguard.

I agree with that suggestion but it’s been years since I’ve been able to find any for sale.
 
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Corbon Power Ball 115 grain Velocity 1450 Energy 537. Just shot some yesterday through a Smith 19-5 2.5 barrel early 80s vintage to test recoil and target practice for defense carry purposes. Recoil was very minimal like a .38 round. Ballistic tests are very good with this round as well.
 
OP - If you want a full power load, I’d go with the R-P 158-grain SJHP. The 158s are said to be less punishing on K frames than the 125s. Winchester’s Silvertip 145-grain load is another option, IIRC that’s what the FBI issued to agents authorized to use .357s in their M13s.

I’ve decided to stick with the R-P version of the old FBI load in my 4” 19-3 for the time being. It’s what I’m using in my K frame .38s and using the one load (and my practice handloads) in all of them simplifies things.
 
From Lucky Gunners Gel Tests:

Out of the six magnum loads that did exceptionally well in our tests, three of them had relatively low recoil compared to the others: The Winchester PDX1 (125 gr.), the Remington Golden Saber (125 gr.), and the Speer 135 gr Gold Dot short barrel load. I would probably use one of those three if I wanted a good self-defense magnum load. Looking at the gel test results, there is not a significant difference between these and the loads with heavier recoil.
 
Very Important Question!

What are the most sensible carry factory loads for 80's vintage K frame 357 revolvers? 2.5 -3 " barrel length.

I can tell you what I think, but please I am not the expert. I will be grateful for any correction. That is how I learn.

The 125 grain SJHP "we" believed to be an awesomely powerful manstopper cartridge. We would shoot a whole boxes of lead loads and end up with a cylinder of Federal 125gr SJHP's just to be sure of function and to "clean the barrel". Uhhh... this was not a good thing. I never ruined a gun thankfully, but others did especially the 19-2, and the 66.

The short bullet does not seal the barrel before the hot gasses escape the cylinder and surround the nose and enter the barrel with it. Add to this that we were obviously not careful about leading around the forcing cone. Either condition or both can split the forcing cone. I have never accepted that shaving off the bottom of the forcing cone is what causes the damage, and there are plenty of 19 snubs with no problems. I heard of one guy who busted one with only 158 grain wadcutters, but my belief is that the longer bullet avoids the problem. I now think that the work of Marshall and Sanow has not proven to be correct in the long run. There is no reason for me to continue to believe that cartridge to be what we thought it was. M&S were making a mistake in their statistical analysis which caused that police load to gain a higher and higher man-stopper rating the more it was used.

It is better to shoot the self-defense magnum loads first when I am fresh and follow up with the cheaper ammo. It is no extra trouble to watch velocity of lead magnums and after range day to take care to clean the lead away from the revolver. There are tools and techniques for this.
 
38 plus P. Seriously. K frame was designed for 38 spl. 27, 28 or L frame is what you want for 357. I have two model 19's. I have a 28 for 357.

I no longer shoot 357 loads in my 19's. I can load anything I want but 357 is an animal not suited for a 19. I'm not sure why S&W thought it was. To their discredit they even make 357 J frames. I guess they sell but not many people like the experience of actually shooting one.
 
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