problems with NEW 617

Brick45 · Feb 10, 2024

Shoots just fine! Speedbeez speed loaders are slick as goose grease!
The durn thing just won't extract and eject fired cases! So far only some cheap, aged, left over Winchester 333 box junk fires and ejects with out having to beat on the rod!

No high speed ammo I've tried thus far ejects except the stuff mentioned above! I think I fired a left over box of Eley Club with no problems but CCI Blazer, Aguila Super Extra (1100 fps) and Super Extra High Velocity (1200 fps), S&B High Velocity all stick and have to beaten out of the cylinder!

Causes?
Cures? Suggestions?
Help needed!

Protocall_Design · Feb 10, 2024

This has been going on for decades. The chambers are undersized. Get a standard .22 Long Rifle Finishing reamer from Manson Reamers and recut them to what they should have been to start with. There are threads about this in the gunsmith section if you want to do some research.

chief38 · Feb 10, 2024

YES! What he ^^^^^^ said. WHY S&W continues to make their 22RF chambers so tight is unknown to me. After properly reaming out the Chambers on my own 22's no accuracy was lost and so I see no downside except you might go through ammo faster as the empties pop out easily - lol.

Brick45 · Feb 10, 2024

Thanks!

What equipment besides the reamer is need to do the job? How is the depth of the ream job controlled?

Yendor357 · Feb 10, 2024

That is totally unacceptable that he spent a bunch of money on a new revolver, and then has to fix it.

I sent my 617 back 3 times, and now the barrel is not indexed correctly. That gun live at my girlfriend’s house. I ordered a Colt.

Protocall_Design · Feb 10, 2024

Brick45 said:
What equipment besides the reamer is need to do the job? How is the depth of the ream job controlled?

You need a tap handle to turn the reamer by hand, and some cutting oil. There is a shoulder on the reamer. You stop cutting when the shoulder touches the original seat for the rim of the brass. Ream the chambers with the extractor in place, as it is part of the chamber.

S&W ucla · Feb 10, 2024

Protocall_Design said:
There is a shoulder on the reamer. You stop cutting when the shoulder touches the original seat for the rim of the brass.

Is the shoulder just a stop that prevents you from going deeper, or will it keep cutting until you stop? Thanks.

Brick45 · Feb 10, 2024

Thanks to everyone for the info and help!

armorer951 · Feb 10, 2024

Be sure to place an empty casing or two in the idle chambers when using the reamer. This keeps the extractor lined up properly while you are reaming.

Use plenty of cutting oil, get some cutting oil specifically designed for this purpose, and, be sure to rinse the reamer often to keep it free of metal chips. As stated above use caution not to touch the bottom of the chamber recess with the tool. (photo)

"cylinder - finish reamer" Brownells #513-051-220 (Manson # F22LRC)

Carter

Protocall_Design · Feb 10, 2024

S&W ucla said:
Is the shoulder just a stop that prevents you from going deeper, or will it keep cutting until you stop? Thanks.

It will keep cutting deeper if you keep pushing on it. I forgot to mention "cylinder" finish reamer. Armorer951 had my back. Thanks!

Brick45 · Feb 10, 2024

Armorer951 Thanks for the photos and info! I just might decide to put an empty case in each chamber to help keep track of which of ten I've done! If I decide to do it myself!

Thanks again to all for the help!

pasound · Feb 10, 2024

Good lessons here. My 617 is stock, new 2019. Never had those problems, but have read about them before. It chambers, shoots and ejects every kind of 22 I stick in it. But Remingtons, all types, fouled it to no ejection after 50-70 rounds. Shot all the Remingtons, and never buying any again.

oldrookey617 · Feb 10, 2024

I have 2 pretty new M-617, 4 and 6 inch, the ammo will fit pretty tight in the cylinders, I tried around 10 types of ammo, CCI will fit tight, Federal AutoMatch, or Champion fits right in, but after shooting around 200 rounds, then cleaning the chambers really well with the round bronze brush, 3-4 times to the range, they fit and ejected right out, that's just on mine, you might try that first, that will not cost you anything, you need to get it broke in anyway, I just got my 6 inch back from Smith yesterday, 2nd trip in, the 2nd gunsmith must be a really good one, it had 5 problems, took it to the range yesterday, everything is great now, it's usually around 37, the high temp was 66 yesterday.. good luck with your New M617..

50150me · Feb 10, 2024

617 solution

I had the same problems with a pair of 617's. Finally sent them back to S&W, they fixed them and returned to a happy owner. They are under reamed and now amount of changing ammo with fix them.

S&W 63 · Feb 10, 2024

I had same problem with my 63-in three holes, I polished them with some very fine abrasive powder and oil on cloth cleaning jag with a drill..a little goes a long way. Worked great. One comment I picked up while researching, if you ream-do not turn the reamer backwards in the cut..it will jam on debris and damage things. Ream by hand also!!

chief38 · Feb 11, 2024

There is an excellent cutting fluid called "Tap Magic" which is what I use for tapping and reaming - it works very well. Make sure you get the version for steel and not the one meant for aluminum!

Do not skimp on the Tap Magic and add some several times while reaming each cylinder. When finished with each individual charge hole (cylinder hole) clean off the reamer before using it for the next hole. If you do not have a small tap handle, I believe Manson and/or Brownell's sells one for use with the reamer. When doing this, I personally use empties in every hole except the one being reamed at the time. Mark the completed holes with a piece of masking tape or grease pencil in case you get distracted. I also remove the cylinder assembly from the revolver's frame which makes it much easier to work on. Just as an aside, I always remove the cylinder from the frame when I clean it after a Range session.

BTW, all this sounds way more complicated than it really is. The entire job takes about 1/2 hour, maybe slightly longer if you have more than 6 holes. After completing all the holes (6 in my case) blow out the cylinder holes with compressed air (or canned air if you have don't have an air compressor) and clean thoroughly when done. After cleaning, leave a light film of gun oil with a clean patch behind. Your shooting experience should now be a whole lot more fun!

Curtis37 · Feb 12, 2024

New 617 problems

I purchased a new 617 with 4" barrel. Took it to the range and after 40 rounds it locked up. Had to use a tool to force the spent casings out of the cylinder. Sent back to S&W, where the estimated repair time is 3-4 weeks. Not very impressed with S&W QA.

mike4sigs · Feb 25, 2024

learned alot of information here. just not sure i want to talke this myself i have 10 thumbs and usually things like this intimidate me

Lou_NC · Feb 25, 2024

mike4sigs said:
learned alot of information here. just not sure i want to talke this myself i have 10 thumbs and usually things like this intimidate me

If you can turn a screwdriver you can operate a reamer. Don’t be intimidated it’s really not that difficult. It helps to have a bench vise with padded jaws, something no homeowner should be without anyway!

I’ve done no less than a dozen S&W .22 revolver cylinders without a hitch.

max503 · Feb 25, 2024

S&W 63 said:
-do not turn the reamer backwards in the cut..

^^^ What he said.

There is a thread about this. Do a search. I bought the reamer and did one of my two S&W 22's. My other one is a safe queen and I haven't got around to doing it yet. It is no big deal, but it is necessary if you want to enjoy shooting your gun.

Instead of a vice I used two Harbor Freight Handscrew Wood Clamps. One to hold the cylinder, and the second one to hold the first one to the bench.

problems with NEW 617

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