357 mag revolver a steady diet of full power loads

I am a happy user of s&w model 19 revolver and in 2025 when some additonal funds are available I want to get another 357 mag.

This time I want a more heavy revolver to be able to use a steady diat of 357 magnum rounds withoup worrying to much to damage the gun.

At first I wanted to get another used s&w gun. The Model 27 or 28 came to my find but the avaibility of these guns is not that good here in Austria.

So I decided to go either with a newely made or used colt Python or with one of the L Frame revolver from S&W.

The main usage is going to be the same as with my model 19. Target/Fun shooting and indoor home defense.

I am not allowed to carry gun here in Austria

Which of the L Frame S&W revolvers would you recommend?

I would look for a S&W Model 686-4. Purely subjective, but I like this version because it has all the good parts, and the hammer and trigger are color case hardened rather than flash chromed as on earlier versions.

Best of luck with your search!

I would recommend a S&W 686+ (7-shot version) if you can find one. Ruger GP100 is a very stout .357 revolver. Those are both comparable in size and weight to a Colt Python.

I like my Pythons a lot. But to me, the single action trigger pull isn’t much fun until a good gunsmith has corrected it.

New Smiths aren’t what they used to be as far as quality. The old ones like the 686-4s were great.

Ruger are decent after a spring kit.

I recently bought an old/like new 4 in Model 27. What a really nice old gun!

The S&W L-frame was designed to handle a steady diet of full power 357 Magnum loads, so that would be a good choice. The N-frames will handle them too, but the N-frame is really more cylinder mass than necessary unless you find a 27-7 or 27-8 or 627-PC with the 8 round cylinder.

If you decide to go the Colt Python route, for shooting one a lot and especially with full power loads, I'd recommend one of the new production Pythons. The new Pythons have a slightly stronger frame and a new lock work and that makes them more durable and less likely to develop cylinder timing issues.

@all Thanks a lot for the many replies and the additional info about the Colt Python.

Also thanks a lot for mentioning the Ruger GP100 as an alternative brand revolver. Purchasing them would be no problem because they are quite common.

@Yendor357 Congrats on your purchase of an old new Model 27. Like mentioned above I also wanted to get one. I have a thing for these early Smith and Wesson guns. I like the look of them.

Could not find one so I need to look into L-frame revolvers as an alternative.

Another Ruger to look at is the Security-Six on the used market.

In the late 1970's and early 1980's they were US Border Patrol
issue. To get the purchase contracts they were required to fire
10,000 rounds of full power .357 magnum and at the end of that
still be in tolerance. They did.

An older 686, 586, or an older N frame. I've bought a half dozen newer S&W revolvers, none up to snuff. NONE.

I own a 686-3, older Colt Python (inherited), A 28,and a Ruger Service 6 among many others.

The Python actually had to go to the gunsmiths around two decades ago, because it came out of time on me. It's a lovely gun with a nice action, but the Colt action needed some TLC. The new Colts have a newer action design and my observations on the older model might be irrelevant to the current conversation.

The 686-3 has been my work horse. It's my most shot revolver and it's seen every thing from .38 wadcutters to 180 grain .357. Plus an assortment of handloads. (I would never run a handload through the Colt (can't afford a replacement). The action is not as good as the Colt's but, it was made in the 1980s and I just dropped it off for a professional cleaner last month. It's never had an issue that couldn't be attributed to ammo and it hasn't had it's side plate off in at least two decades. The front screw on the sight comes lose once in a while (the -4 eliminated that issue IIRC)

I purchased my 28 used from my shooting buddy down in GA, I don't have it with me at the moment, but It's built like the proverbial brick **** house. It is substantially larger in the hand then the 686, it balances rather well and in 4 inch it's not unbearably heavy. Shooting wise It's very nice and has a nice trigger. During one range session many years ago I was shooting a particularly hot 125 gainer, it gave me a stout rap to palm with the 686 mentioned above but was rather tame in the 28. Not surprising given the weight of the 28. Interestingly enough, before I purchased the revolver, my shooting buddy had been shooting LeveRevoltuion ammo through it without an issue. Unfortunately, the 28s are long since gone from the S&W catalogue and are becoming rarer and rarer. You might be able to find one as an estate revolver as most folks I know that have them are not willing to part with them.

The Ruger Service Six is basically the Ruger version of your model 19 in stainless steel, fixed sight and round forcing cone. I purchased mine and and a 3" model 66 at the same time. The 66 is nicer in action, fit, finish, etc. but the Ruger has a reputation for being more reliable and mechanically simpler. But the Service 6 and Speed 6 (adjustable sights) are long gone from the Ruger catalogue. I trust mine enough to run reloads through it. The Late Pat Rogers (NYPD, USMC, GUNSITE) spoke very highly of Ruger revolvers and carried a NYPD Approved variant on duty.

The Ruger GP-100 (which I've shot) is comparable to the 686, if I had to replace my 686 with a non-S&W, the GP-100 would get the nod. It's known for reliability, though like the Service Six has a heavier trigger pull then the Smith. However, there are springs and even the Ruger Match action that can take the GP-100 up a notch.

agent00 said:

...This time I want a more heavy revolver to be able to use a steady diat of 357 magnum rounds withoup worrying to much to damage the gun....

Click to expand...

How about a Manurhin MR73..?

manurhin mr73 design and construction - larvatus prodeo — LiveJournal

The 686+ or the 586+ seven shot revolvers. No larger than the standard 686 and 586.

I don't think you could go wrong with any of the S&W L-frame 586 or 686 revolvers. I did own one S&W L-frame .357 with the infamous internal lock. The IL gave no problems, but I still prefer the -5 and earlier L-Frames without the lock. I would trust the durability of the L-frames with a steady diet of .357 ammunition more than the old or new model Pythons. I've had both 6 and 7-shot L-Frames. No problem with either type..

If you're not carrying, a 686 with 6" barrel is a tack driver at the range and you can shoot .357 all day long if you choose. I'm partial to the traditional 6 shot but nothing really wrong with a 686+.

There was a guy on another forum documenting shooting a steady diet of 158 gr .357 Magnum through his current production Model 66. It ended up being quite uneventful and he stopped updating, probably because it just kept chugging along. The current production K frame forcing cones are a lot stronger than they used to be.

Flame cutting was generally regarded as more of an issue with the lighter, faster loads like 125 gr JHP. Even so, metallurgy is pretty good these days. An N frame gives you the thickest forcing cone on a S&W .357 Magnum. However, I don't know if an N-frame, especially an older 6 shot, is any less likely to go out of time with rapid double action shooting. That big cylinder is a lot of mass interacting with the hand and cylinder stop. The 7 shot 686 Plus has a 31g lighter cylinder than the 6 shot 686. Presumably, a modern 8 shot 627 will also have a lighter cylinder than an older Model 27/28 (assuming both are fluted).

I prefer the DA feel of S&W revolvers over the Ruger GP100, but the GP100 is generally regarded as standing up to a steady diet of .357 Magnum better than an S&W L-frame.

The new Colt Pythons are internally simplified and probably less likely to go out of time than the old ones, but I would check the parts/service situation in your market. From what I've heard, even in the US, CZ/Colt have not been great about spare parts or gunsmith support for the revolvers, and their answer to any issues has generally been 'ship it back to the factory.'

There is no doubt that I am a Smith and Wesson enthusiast. Every 357 magnum that I own has fired steady diets of 357 Magnum ammunition otherwise I would have bought a 38 special

This includes the frame sizes J, K and N. Since the first revolver I ever purchased new was a model 27 over 40 years ago, I never saw a need for the L frame and I never really warmed up to it. As a collector of Smith and Wesson revolvers, I do own a few L frames, but they are all outside the normal models

I know there are examples of 357 Magnums that have cracked forcing cones or cracked frames or other issues but this is the exception not the rule. These examples represent an extremely tiny percentage of the millions upon millions of 357 Magnum firearms that's Smith and Wesson has manufactured over the decades

You will not damage any of the Factory's 357 firearms, however you could wear them out. No different than we wear out our cars from driving them, we simply get parts to repair them. I do realize that in Austria that might be a much harder thing to do than here in America

With that concern in mind there is no confusion, I would buy an N-frame

Looking at the 27/327/627 family of revolvers, my first choice would probably be the 5" Model 327 TRR8 or the M&P 327 R8. These are basically the same revolver

I have been very fond of the 8 shot design ever since I acquired my first one in 1997.

I do also realize that in Austria you have an incredibly smaller base of firearms to choose from than we do in America so I would probably buy the first N-frame 357 Magnum that I came across. I would then continue to keep my eyes open for whichever variation I really wanted and once it popped up I could always sell off that original one.Though I almost never sell

If you were to look at a brand other than Smith and Wesson my eyes would clearly be turning towards the Colt Python. I'm also very fond of this revolver family and own many examples. My absolute favorite one to shoot is my 6 inch Royal Blue Python with the optional Custom Shop Eliason sights

Though I must admit that my 8 inch Pythons tend to be tack drivers and I shoot the blue one most often

Since you are not allowed to use the weapon other than as you describe, in your shoes, I’d be looking for a nice Model 586 or an older Model 27-2. There is no need to resort to “unattractive” D) stainless steel models if the weapon can easily receive regular care.

Don’t be too afraid of the new 586 revolvers. For the most part, I try to disregard the constant, tiresome hub-bub about the IL. One of my shooting friends bought a new 586, with some trepidation, and he has become completely enamored with it. One of the nice features of the new models is that they can be readily adapted to an optical sight. My friend has some sort of Holosun reflex sight on his 586 and is well pleased with the combination. I might try one myself someday. They do make precision shooting much easier, especially for old eyes.

Old Pythons go out of time. My Python only gets 357 mag loaded to 38 Special +P pressures these days. Ruger Speed 6, Security 6, and the GP100 are good choices along with (in my opinion) the older versions Smith L-Frame.

My 3 inch 686-6+ has been an excellent shooter. The IL has been no problem so far. I don't care for the looks of it, but it is what it is. I also have a 5 inch 686-6+ that I haven't shot yet. Maybe I can get to the range today. The L frame is my favorite S&W frame size. If I could own only one 357, it would be a 686.

I much prefer the DA triggers on the S&W revolvers over Colt or Ruger.

The pro series 686 SSR is very nice.