donniedee
Member
guys i have access to approx 3000 rds of 38 lead round nose to shhot , whats the best way to super clean my barrel on my 27-2 3.5 in after im done shooting say 100rds? want it clean as new... thanks
best way to remove lead?
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anomad
Member
Are you getting leading after 100 rounds? If they are quality cast bullets and you aren't pushing them too hard there should be very little leading. If you just want it über clean that's cool.
I could shoot all 3000 rounds in my Model 10 before I cleaned it. (Not that I would) I just use some break free and a plastic brush or a bore snake. I'm not going for 'clean as new' though.
I had a GP100 once that had some kind of problem I couldn't figure out. It leaded horribly in the throat and shot "groups" about the size of a paper plate at 50 feet.
I could shoot all 3000 rounds in my Model 10 before I cleaned it. (Not that I would) I just use some break free and a plastic brush or a bore snake. I'm not going for 'clean as new' though.
I had a GP100 once that had some kind of problem I couldn't figure out. It leaded horribly in the throat and shot "groups" about the size of a paper plate at 50 feet.
m1gunner
US Veteran
Use either the Lewis lead cleaning system or some copper Chore Boy (wrapped around an old bore brush). Just add this to your normal cleaning procedure and you will take care of any lead problem.
BTW, you ought to remove all the copper fouling before you start shooting the lead. Removing copper is much more difficult than removing lead.
BTW, you ought to remove all the copper fouling before you start shooting the lead. Removing copper is much more difficult than removing lead.
This is a good post from this forum: http://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/172167-thoughts-bore-fouling-cleaning.html
tomcatt51
Member
Sounds like your gun had a bad case of Ruger's specialty: barrel constriction where the barrel threads into the frame.
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Insert gun into blast furnace at 2,000 degrees for 5 minutes. All lead will be gone. Sorry couldn't resist!
After shooting a few hundred rounds, a cleaning with any good bore solvent and a good bronze brush followed with some cotton patches should be more than adequate. If after a while you do get some severe leading I would use the Lewis Lead remover (available from Brownell's) as per the instructions. That's the long and short of it!
If you have really bad leading I would first try another revolver to eliminate the bullet hardness being a problem. If they consistently lead in any revolver, then I would suspect that the bullet mixture is too soft.
Chief38
After shooting a few hundred rounds, a cleaning with any good bore solvent and a good bronze brush followed with some cotton patches should be more than adequate. If after a while you do get some severe leading I would use the Lewis Lead remover (available from Brownell's) as per the instructions. That's the long and short of it!
If you have really bad leading I would first try another revolver to eliminate the bullet hardness being a problem. If they consistently lead in any revolver, then I would suspect that the bullet mixture is too soft.
Chief38
gkitch
Member
Outers Foul-out is by far my favorite de-leading tool.
I HAVE TRIED THEM ALL. IN PPC I SHOOT THOUSANDS OF SOFT SWAGED LEAD BULLETS. I HAVE THE LEWIS SYSTEM, AND THE FOUL OUT. WHAT WASTES OF TIME AND MONEY. COPPER CHORE BOY FROM THE GROCERY STORE CUT AND WRAPPED AROUND AN OLD BORE BRUSH IS THE WAY TO GO. $1.49 COPPER CHORE BOY PADS HAVE LASTED ME OVER 5 YEARS. TRY THIS TEST. CLEAN YOUR BORE AS YOU NORMALLY WOULD(AFTER SHOOTING LEAD THAT IS). THAN TAKE A FEW PASSES WITH THE CHORE BOY OVER WHITE PAPER. AND "VIOLA" . JUST LOOK AT WHAT COMES OUT. LONG STRANDS OF LEAD THAT WERE IN THE RIFLING THAT YOU THOUGHT YOU HAD GOTTEN OUT. QUICK ,EASY, CHEMICAL FREE. JP
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I cant believe some moron hasn't posted the old famous: "all ya gotta do is run on down to the mercury store and git ya some mercury...pour it down the barrel and like magic the lead is gone!!!"
Seriously, the Lewis Lead Remover works great. Followed by the Choreboy/any other type of metallic wool wrapped around a brush. Next would be the stiffer brushes that Brownell's makes then the Birchwood Casey lead cloth patches. If all of the above dont do it and/or you keep having lead problems cut a Taylor throat in the gun...positively stops leading period end of story.
Seriously, the Lewis Lead Remover works great. Followed by the Choreboy/any other type of metallic wool wrapped around a brush. Next would be the stiffer brushes that Brownell's makes then the Birchwood Casey lead cloth patches. If all of the above dont do it and/or you keep having lead problems cut a Taylor throat in the gun...positively stops leading period end of story.
Start by cleaning the bore to remove all traces of copper or lead fouling.
If needed, I use the ChoreBoy method while shooting and have lately found it most effective if I put the rod down the barrel and then screw the brush/ChoreBoy on. This enables you to get a larger bundle of scrubbing material started by way of the forcing cone than if you start in from the muzzle. You can actually feel the roughness, if any, disappear with just a few swipes back and forth. No solvent is needed or even desirable.
I would be surprised if you have much of a problem with what you are working with, but at least you can clean it up without too much hassle.
If needed, I use the ChoreBoy method while shooting and have lately found it most effective if I put the rod down the barrel and then screw the brush/ChoreBoy on. This enables you to get a larger bundle of scrubbing material started by way of the forcing cone than if you start in from the muzzle. You can actually feel the roughness, if any, disappear with just a few swipes back and forth. No solvent is needed or even desirable.
I would be surprised if you have much of a problem with what you are working with, but at least you can clean it up without too much hassle.
tomcatt51
Member
A cylinder full of jacketed bullets takes out any leading very easily.
dfariswheel
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"I cant believe some moron hasn't posted the old famous: "all ya gotta do is run on down to the mercury store and git ya some mercury...pour it down the barrel and like magic the lead is gone!!!"
Or just as bad, "Just shoot some jacketed bullets to blow the lead out".
Or just as bad, "Just shoot some jacketed bullets to blow the lead out".
Yep...that'll do the barrel a whole lotta good!!!! My second favorite after the " 'oh so easy to get mercury"
Ammonia based solvents for copper fouling but isn't there a homebrew concoction that uses household peroxide and vinegar?
IIRC, it supposedly works but is not recommended, is harmful to some finishes and produces bad vapors, etc.
IIRC, it supposedly works but is not recommended, is harmful to some finishes and produces bad vapors, etc.
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crsides
US Veteran, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I still have some of that mercury. And it really worked well.
Charlie
Charlie
tomcatt51
Member
Yes it does. That is a fact, but the resident "experts" are sure you'll die just thinking about using it.
Good thing there's no tetraethyl lead in gas anymore or they'd be afraid to put gas in their car.
Make sure the Chore Boy is copper. The Chore boy is great for the bore. The Lewis tool is best for forcing cone.
tomcatt51
Member
It (mercury) was easily available in our instrument shop at work. The rest is pointless.
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crsides
US Veteran, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Us old guys use to smash the mercury into little bitty balls with our thumbs and then round them up into one big one. Those of us still alive, really loved the old days.
Charlie
Charlie
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