Hand polishing rebound slides and areas?

So I was polishing my hammer and trigger on a 60-10 which had a bead blast finish put on it ( I like the contrasting of bead blast to high shine). And while this pistol has had an action job a question popped:

1. I noticed a smoother feel on the trigger after I polished it with Mag polish, would this also work on the rebound slide and the area where it rubs the side of the frame?

2. Could i go at it with 1000-1200+ grit wet sand to get it even finer than a honing stone?

2. Would it make a difference if I did the same on the side of the hammer and local contact areas as well?

3. Could I do this safely on all contact side to frame areas?

*side track question, would anyone happen to have an expanded pdf of a 60-10, 686+7 shot, and possible a ruger .22new model?

More effort than it justifies, to the extent you're talking about.
May help to point out that what you're doing with a polishing liquid or compound is not what a gunsmith does in an action job.
What you call polishing & what a gunsmith calls polishing are not the same thing.

When a gunsmith goes through a revolver action, his "polishing" is generally done with fine stones. He's not trying to make surfaces look pretty like you are, he's trying to reduce friction, and he doesn't normally use a liquid polish compound on hammer/trigger/sear/rebound slide engagement surfaces.

Reducing friction on contacting surfaces in the action can & does end up requiring less force in pulling the trigger, because the interaction between involved parts is smoother.
If you really like to fiddle with your gun, you can polish (as in slick up, not make pretty) every single surface that rubs against anything anywhere as the action is cycled, but I wouldn't waste the time.

DO NOT MESS WITH ANY HAMMER NOTCHES OR SEAR ENGAGEMENTS! You don't know enough to do it & risk changing the geometry in the wrong direction.

Stoning the rebound slide is a common tuneup practice that you should be able to do yourself without much risk, as long as you don't take too much material off the hump. Don't round off any edges or corners. Stoning the frame surfaces it slides against is do-able.

You won't do any better with any grit of sandpaper than you can with the correct fine stone. You'll do worse.
There are specialized types of sandpaper used in gunsmithing, but if you're just refering to sheets from the hardware store, don't!

You can stone the sides of the hammer and you can do the same on the corresponding frame & sideplate areas where the hammer pivots against those surfaces.
But- if your hammer & trigger are case hardened, you can eat down through the hardened surface if you take off too much material. If you remove too much material from both sides of the hammer & both frame surfaces, you can also create some side to side wandering of the hammer once reassembled.

The two most common errors people make in doing this type of polishing are screwing up critical hammer/trigger/sear engagements, and taking too much metal off (going too far).

I can't tell at a glance if the trigger & hammer on mine are MIM without disassembling it, if yours are then eating down through a case hardened surface wouldn't be as much of an issue.

Keep straights straight, don't round off anything that's not rounded to begin with, don't get carried away, don't use sandpaper, do use VERY fine stones made for the purpose (Brownells has 'em), and don't remove too much material.

Denis

Dpris has it right.

I have an old flat fine Arkansas stone, that I use.

A light swipe or two, on the sides of the rebound slide does it.

I've worked on them for so long, I can usually feel any raised edges/imperfections, with my fingers, then GENTLY remove them.

Breakfree Lube/preservative, is slicker than snot, and a bit, applied after cleaning, helps immensely.

Polishing isn't necessary. You really just want to smooth the reboud slide. Jerry Miculek's "Trigger Job" video goes thru the process very well. Gun Video "Trigger Job: Complete Action Tuning for Smith and Wesson Revolvers with Jerry Miculek" DVD - MidwayUSA

THANKS FOR THE GREAT ADVICE GUYS.i was think of finding the one ratchet that might be causing the problem and peening it a little bit.i agree with shooting it also.
all of your guys advice is great.
i really appreciate it

If you don't know what you're doing, I wouldn't be messing with ratchet teeth.
Denis