As the title asks, what does this do or accomplish?
Is it done where you insert the cartridge, under the extractor
Thanks
Is it done where you insert the cartridge, under the extractor
Thanks
What does chamfering the cylinders do?
- Thread starter Rule3
- Start date
TSQUARED
Well-known member
It breaks the sharp edges on the outside of the chambers and extractor and allows speedier reloads with moonclipped ammo by lessening the probability of the cartridge hanging up on the chamber edge during reloads.
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OKFC05
Well-known member
I just get the edges broken so they don't dig into the cartridge, as said above. You can't really see it easily, but you can feel the smoothness and it makes a huge difference in reloading with clips or speedloader.
I can toss a clip into the cylinder.
Chamfering is not hard to do, but it's cheaper to have it done for 1 or 2 guns than buy the tools. And without the proper tools and some skill, you can make a mess.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamfer
I can toss a clip into the cylinder.
Chamfering is not hard to do, but it's cheaper to have it done for 1 or 2 guns than buy the tools. And without the proper tools and some skill, you can make a mess.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamfer
OP
The reason I ask is that my M 25 MT Gun 45 Colt does not fully extract (eject) the fired brass. They go about half way and then I need to pull them out.
It is not from overpressure loads. Just hangs up pretty much where the mouth of the case was expanded by the bullet leaving.
Will chamfering help with this?
Thanks
It is not from overpressure loads. Just hangs up pretty much where the mouth of the case was expanded by the bullet leaving.
Will chamfering help with this?
Thanks
OP
What does chamfering the cylinders do??
As the title asks, what does this do or accomplish?
Is it done where you insert the cartridge, under the extractor?
Thanks
I posted this (now in the Smithing section) but maybe it's better here as it involves reloads.
The reason I ask is that with my M 25 MT Gun 45 Colt, the empty brass does not fully eject or extract from the cylinders. They go about half way and then I need to pull them out. Not hard, just do not drop out.
It is not from dirt ( I am OCD
) nor from over pressure rounds.
Pretty much just where the case mouth is expanded a bit from the bullet.
So would chamfering solve this??
Thanks
As the title asks, what does this do or accomplish?
Is it done where you insert the cartridge, under the extractor?
Thanks
I posted this (now in the Smithing section) but maybe it's better here as it involves reloads.
The reason I ask is that with my M 25 MT Gun 45 Colt, the empty brass does not fully eject or extract from the cylinders. They go about half way and then I need to pull them out. Not hard, just do not drop out.
It is not from dirt ( I am OCD
) nor from over pressure rounds.Pretty much just where the case mouth is expanded a bit from the bullet.
So would chamfering solve this??
Thanks
No. If that's all the distance the shells move, the extractor rod isn't full length. If you want ejection, point the cylinder down and don't use your thumb on the ejector, lightly palm strike the ejector rod.
Chamfering the chambers does ease speedloading. I strongly suggest not doing the extractor, just that part of the chamber edge that is part of the cylinder.
Chamfering the chambers does ease speedloading. I strongly suggest not doing the extractor, just that part of the chamber edge that is part of the cylinder.
OP
I do palm strike the the ejector. I might not be exact as to how far they come out but the rod can only be as long as it is?? I do not understand the "rod is not full length"??
mkk41
US Veteran
Ya just chamfer/polish the back edges of the chambers , extractor star included. They usually have a fairly sharp edge , so ya chamfer them lightly so cartridges go in a bit easier , especially when using speedloaders , and ya don't shave lead bullets or scratch yer brass.
I use a fine Cratex cone in a Dremel. Don't take much to make a noticable difference.
I use a fine Cratex cone in a Dremel. Don't take much to make a noticable difference.
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Exactly! The same problem exists in .38 Spl pistols with less than a 2.5 inch barrel. Most DA revolvers were designed so that the extractor/ejector rod stroke will remove the complete cartridge case from the cylinder. When the barrel gets shorter than 3 inches, this often can't happen, depending upon the length of the cartridge case.
I'll admit I'm not real sure how long the barrel is on a moutain gun. From the description of the issue, it seems that ejector rod travel is the cause. Does it do this with factory ammo? If not, perhaps you need to closely check your reloading procedures and/or possibly your pistol needs a factory visit.
I'll admit I'm not real sure how long the barrel is on a moutain gun. From the description of the issue, it seems that ejector rod travel is the cause. Does it do this with factory ammo? If not, perhaps you need to closely check your reloading procedures and/or possibly your pistol needs a factory visit.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I'm not so sure chamfering will make the empty brass fall free easier. I'm thinking a good polish inside the cylinders would be a better solution.
OP
I am familiar with Cratex. The cones are used to polish feed ramps (fine abrasive) But come on guys what do I do?
ArchAngle, how would I polish??
ArchAngle, how would I polish??
OP
The gun is a 4" and the 45 Colt are pretty long. The rod, is what it is there is no way to have a longer version that I am aware of?
Factory ammo? What's that?
I load pretty much every handgun caliber there is, it's not the ammo. I load a lot hotter ammo (and it's not max ) in 44 Mag and 357 Mag and no problems there.
Factory ammo? What's that?
I load pretty much every handgun caliber there is, it's not the ammo. I load a lot hotter ammo (and it's not max ) in 44 Mag and 357 Mag and no problems there.Beans
Well-known member
Chamfering is used to taper the beginning of the charging holes to ease the insertion of the loaded rounds when normally using a speed loader or moon/half moon clips. There is no relationship between the cases hanging up halfway out of the chambers and chamfering.
When chamfering, the extractor is also part of the chamfering.
Are all the cases hanging up or in just some of the charging holes? Are you using light loads?
I have found that sometime the loads I use produce this event and others don't.
When chamfering, the extractor is also part of the chamfering.
Are all the cases hanging up or in just some of the charging holes? Are you using light loads?
I have found that sometime the loads I use produce this event and others don't.
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Beans
Well-known member
I agree, but go slowly as an over sized charging hole could be more troublesome the current problem.
I would first scrub the heck out of it with some 0000 steel wool wrapped around a brass brush.
Skip Sackett
US Veteran
Pictures are worth a thousand words. Probably worth 10,000 of mine:
Notice the star on this cylinder. It is even more "chamfered" because of the tendency of the 357Mag, when held in full moon clips, to lean toward the center of the gun. This excessive chamfering was done from the factory!
It aids in reloading but on the other end than what you need. Not the coming out, but the going in!
Take a look!
Notice the star on this cylinder. It is even more "chamfered" because of the tendency of the 357Mag, when held in full moon clips, to lean toward the center of the gun. This excessive chamfering was done from the factory!
It aids in reloading but on the other end than what you need. Not the coming out, but the going in!
Take a look!
Attachments
You can get away with chamfering the extractor/ejector on a cylinder that uses moon clips because the clip will engage the extractor/ejector. When you're depending upon the extractor/ejector to engage the rim of the actual cartridges, the most you should do is to just break the edge of the extractor/ejector where it will engage the cartridge rim.
I've chamfered the chamber edges about 30 thousanths and left the extractor/ejector alone and speedloaders, firing and extraction work fine. There really isn't much engagement between the case rim and the extractor/ejector, messing with it raises the possibility of a case slipping under the extractor and tying the weapon up.
OCD, if it was mine, I'd call S&W and arrange a trip back home for examination/work by the factory. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE A CRATEX TIP INSIDE YOUR CHAMBERS!!!!!!!!!!! If you just have to give this a try yourself, whittle Dremel felt bobs to size and use auto finish rubbing compound to polish the surface. Cratex can remove significant amounts of metal and scrap your cylinder.
Back when I used to have to qualify with a .38 snubby, I could get ejection of the empties, but my left hand would have round, red marks at the end of the day, possibly with some faint blood. YMMV.
I've chamfered the chamber edges about 30 thousanths and left the extractor/ejector alone and speedloaders, firing and extraction work fine. There really isn't much engagement between the case rim and the extractor/ejector, messing with it raises the possibility of a case slipping under the extractor and tying the weapon up.
OCD, if it was mine, I'd call S&W and arrange a trip back home for examination/work by the factory. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE A CRATEX TIP INSIDE YOUR CHAMBERS!!!!!!!!!!! If you just have to give this a try yourself, whittle Dremel felt bobs to size and use auto finish rubbing compound to polish the surface. Cratex can remove significant amounts of metal and scrap your cylinder.
Back when I used to have to qualify with a .38 snubby, I could get ejection of the empties, but my left hand would have round, red marks at the end of the day, possibly with some faint blood. YMMV.
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OP
Thanks. No, I would not attempt any "grinding" of my own. I am very good with tools but "know my limitations"
M1911-66
Well-known member
As others have said, chamfering cylinders helps get rounds into the chambers. If you are having problems getting spent cartridges out of the cylinders, you've got a problem that won't be solved by chamfering.
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