Have a well-used stainless wheel gun with a few scratches and scrapes.

I'd like to clean it up without compromising the matte finish -- the mirror thing's not right for this piece.

Any suggestions?

Hapworth, here's a little on the topic....

Deleting Scuffs and Scratches

A little more, and I mean a little....

Any way to remove light scratches on a Matte finish 4006?

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Ogy

Thank you for the fast reply, Ogy. I searched but only found threads on achieving a high mirror polish...

Looks like a "live with it" unless and until a professional bead blasting.

I have used Flitz and a toothbrush, it worked well on the top strap and barrel rib of a Model 66 I had years ago. It didn't shine the metal just cleaned it and made it look almost new.

i have been told that a white scotch brite pad will give it a mat dull finish, if i could ever find a white scotch bite pad i would try it!

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WILL WORK FOR AMMO!

I work for the "Competition" and had several oportunities to watch the guys in product service. They used a wire wheel which is ULTRA fine and soft. Does a real nice job if you're looking for the "brushed look". I've taken 2 of mine in on Saturdays and did it myself.

Can you elaborate on exactly what that wire wheel is? I know that is how the "satin" finish is applied to Smith revolvers, and also to Ruger wheel guns. Although, I'm fairly certain that the Smith revolvers go through one additional buffing, after the wire wheel, to help knock down the scratch ridges even further.

Thanks.

Hmmm, Luscious has a set of Alclad stainless pots and pans. She makes me, - er I mean, she uses Barkeeper's Friend on them. Keeps the shiny side shiny and the matte side matte. May be worth a shot?

I have used the scotch brite pads with very good results. I believe Brownells sell a kit of three different pads, which vary from coarse to fine abreasive levels. I'd start with the fine to determine which abrasion level would match the gun's original finish. As an armorer for a large agency, I would use the pads to restore a uniform look to an officer's stainless pistol after bumps, bruises and holster wear had taken their toll. I always got appreciative nods from the guys when I used the pads.

the GRAY scotch brite pads come close to matching the finish on Brushed stainless finish, you can usually find them at most auto parts stores,,
However, for the matte-finish look, it's a bead-blast only type of deal

Ace hardware sells real Scotch Brite pads in the paint department . With that said I tried a white pad and it did nothing to the finish . The white is just too fine in my opinion .

You can buy Scotchbrite pads in various grits at most automotive supply houses, where they're sold for use in painting cars.

These work very well for factory type standard grained finishes, but nothing works for restoring a bead blasted finish but bead blasting.

One trick I have used to correct light scratches on metal that's been bead blasted is to lay a sheet of wet or dry sand cloth on the area and tap the cloth with a small hammer. Each tap, lift the cloth and move it to keep fresh abrasive on the spot.
After this, use a brass "toothbrush" and a cleansing powder like Barkeeper's Friend or Comet to scrub the area. Mix the powder with just enough water to form a heavy paste.
This will even the bead blasted area out.

This also works with the Scotchbrite pads on non-bead blasted factory grained matte finishes.

To use a Scotchbrite pad to remove light scratches, pick one that's close to the original satin grained finish and rub the scratch until it's either removed, or at least blended in and less noticeable.
Finish by "stroking" the pad in the same direction the original grain ran to even it out and blend the area in.
By stroking the pad you avoid leaving tiny circular scratches where you reverse direction with the pad.
Used correctly, you can get the areas very close to the original factory finish.

One thing I STRONGLY recommend NOT doing is to use any kind of wire wheel brush on a stainless gun.
As with using steel wool or a bead blaster that's been used to blast carbon steel, the wire brush will embed tiny particles of carbon steel into the stainless and the particles will rust, ruining the surface.

Might be dealing with a terminology issue, after reading these excellent posts.

"Matte" versus "brushed" versus "satin" stainless?

The gun in question is a stock 64-3, and I'm wondering if I was mistaken to refer to its finish as "matte", when it might actually be "brushed"?

Would that change how I might go about cleaning it up?

Having been doing this since the late 60's and now 'retired' I still use ANY of the 3 M Scotchbrite pads, color no matter as you have to press lighter ( get the touch /feel) bottom line is you have to polish out and remove any and ALL scratches from the finish first, then blend it "back" and matte it,,,you can also use "glass beads" , USED ones, and very light air pressure, again, practice and getting a "feel" for the finished look......

PLEASE, stay away from any and all power equipment,unless YOU know how or have ANY experience, you will "booger" the finish........

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dan
NRA Benefactor,PMA

I think it's best to call the factory revolver (non-CS/PS) finish brushed satin. When referring to the few Smith Pro Shop models, I would call those bead-blasted, or matte-blasted. (Not sure what everyone else calls these finishes.)

And, that distinction is absolutely crucial for properly re-working the finish on your gun. As has been stated above, your can use any number of tricks on the brushed satin guns. But, essentially, the only way that you are going to be able to rehab a matte blasted area, is to re-blast with a proper grit media.

These terms often get used interchangeably.

Bottom line is, if you have a standard, original factory stainless S&W the top of the frame and barrel will have a bead blasted finish, the rest of the gun will have a satin "brushed" finish, even though no brush is used to do it.
It's actually done with large diameter polishing wheels using various grits of polishing media.

This is sometimes referred to as a "grained finish" because if you look at the surface, you'll see that there's a definite grained pattern to how the gun was polished at the factory.
As example, the cylinder will have the grain running around the cylinder, while the cylinder flutes will have the grain running length-wise of the flutes.

If your gun is a standard factory gun, the best method of cleaning up light scratches and wear is to use a Scotchbrite pad, but stay away from the bead blasted top of the frame and barrel.
Only a fresh bead blast job can match that.

I have used 0000 steel wool with good results to remove shiney scratches.

In my experience dfariswheel is exactly on the mark.

I had no luck finding the Scotch Brite pads except for the green pot scrubbers, anywhere I searched. Then I found out your local Woodcraft store has them listed under Norton Non-Woven Abrasive Pads click here.

The gray pad as a final pad best matches the factory brushed finish in my experience. You can use sandpaper or coarser pads prior to the final pass. Do follow the original grain finish. Basic wood working.

Do not use a carbon steel brush or steel wool on stainless steel. You will come to regret it. Being around stainless steel pipe welding for many years, if someone used a brush with carbon steel fibers, it will rust. Maybe you keep you SS revolver from conditions that will not allow the imbedded steel to rust, but I wouldn't take that chance.

Here is an article I wrote a while back which has some tips on stainless factory finish and may be of help to you.
I purchased the white Scotch Brite on Ebay. Good luck, Bob

How to remove and stop cylinder galling on ss guns.

I'm resurrecting this thread to thank all who replied with excellent advice and helpful clarifications.

Finally got a chance to purchase various items suggested and take a crack at the brushed stainless. The results are stunning -- effectively "like new" restoration of the gun's finish. Impressed and very pleased.

Special thanks to dfariswheel for just about everything posted; jepp2 for suggesting Norton Pads; and MAG-NUM for linking his how-to thread.

If only blueing were this easily amenable.

Next and final step will be to improve the bead-blasted top strap...

What grit sand cloth works best with this technique?

EDIT for update:

Well, I dived in anyway and used a couple different grits before settling on 100 -- pretty crunchy. Used a gunsmith hammer with a nylon head.

Took several passes with many shreds of sand paper and short, sharp, precise strikes, followed by semi-vigorous scrubs with Barkeeps Friend and a bronze brush, but the effect was really impressive: a significantly better looking topstrap -- matte, much closer to uniform in appearance, with scratches significantly reduced.

Again, thanks...

I think they are brushed. Mine is.