Okay, I need some advice here. I have a very nicely re-blued 1906 M&P .38 Special. But when it was blued, they blued the hammer and trigger as well. If I use a commercial blue remover, will it also destroy and case colors left underneath? Any ideas, input and suggestions are welcome. Thanks

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Always bet on stupidity.

How to remove bluing.

There are likely no colors left after the rebluing, unfortunately.

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Pisgah

Thanks to you both for the link and the answer. I was afraid of the case colors being gone under there when I bought it, but oh well, now I just have to decide whether to try it or just leave it as is. Thanks again

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Always bet on stupidity.

I think that you should leave it as it is. Any blue removal chemical could possibly destroy and case hardening remaining. Not worth the risk in terms of time and money. Leave it as it is, and chalk it up to one of life's learning experiences. Frank

Couldn't you just send off the hammer and trigger to be re-casehardened? On those parts, it likely wouldn't be that much.

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Lost it all in a boat accident

This process is probably well known but someone once told me a way to color case harden gun or knife parts. It resembles building a pipe bomb...You need a length of pipe the length and width of which will hold the piece or pieces you want to case harden. You thread each end and cap off one end, then pack bone meal into the pipe and around the article you want to case harden, really pack it in there. Make sure when you put the other cap on it is tightly packed, put the piece of pipe packed with the stuff in a forge that will get it up to red hot and it usually needs to be there at least 15 minutes, take it out and with tools remove one end and quench the parts immediately...I never tried this process but did see a rifle lock that a friend did and it was impressive.

You can likely find a replacement hammer and trigger in excellent shape as far as color case hardening for a whole lot less than trying to have yours re-worked.

Used to be $50/a part for hammers, triggers, ect to be re-case hardened w/colors by most of the 'name' restoration shops.
Most I've done business with or know of now just have a minimum charge for the CCH of $100 and that doesn't include and polishing.
Also figure the shipping, those First Class should cover these small items. Even a small Flat Rate Priority Box is only something like $6.

Check w/them,,it may be worth it for a hammer & trigger set.