Originally Posted by Ed Harris

''Ed's Red'' Bore Cleaner... Home-Mix Really Works
By C.E. ''Ed'' Harris
Updated & Revised 9-29-95.

Four years ago I mixed my first "Ed's Red" or "ER" bore cleaner and
hundreds of users have told me that they think this home-mixed cleaner
is more effective than commercial products. I urge you to mix some and
give it a fair trial, compared to whatever you have been using.
Competitive shooters, gun clubs and police departments who use a gallon
or more of rifle bore cleaner annually can save by mixing their own, and
they will give up nothing in safety or effectiveness.

This cleaner has an action very similar to standard military issue rifle
bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. Users report it is more effective than
Hoppe's for removing plastic fouling in shotgun bores, or caked carbon
fouling in semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or in removing leading in
revolvers. It is not as effective as Sweets 7.62, Hoppe's Bench Rest
Nine or Shooter's Choice for fast removal of heavy copper fouling in
rifle bores. However, because "ER" is more effective in removing caked
carbon and abrasive primer residues than other cleaners, metal fouling
is greatly reduced when "ER" is used on a continuing basis.

I originally came up with this mix because I am an active high power
rifle competitive shooter and hand loading experimenter who uses a lot
of rifle bore cleaner. I was not satisfied with the performance and high
price of commercial products. I knew there was no technical reason why
an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn't be mixed using common
hardware store ingredients. The result is inexpensive, effective,
provides good corrosion protection and adequate residual lubrication so
that routine "oiling" after cleaning is rarely necessary, except for
long-term storage of over 1 year, or harsh service environments, such as
salt water exposure.

This formula is based on proven principles and incorporates two polar
and two nonpolar solvents. It is adapted from the one in Hatcher's
Notebook for "Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18," but substituting
equivalent modern materials. I had the help of an organic chemist in
doing this and we knew there would be no "surprises." The original
Hatcher formula called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts
Astral Oil and sperm oil, and optionally 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin
added per liter. Some discussion of the ingredients is helpful to
understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works.

Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene.
I recommend "K1" kerosene of the type normally sold for use in indoor
space heaters. Some users have reported successful substitution of
civilian aviation grade kerosene such as Turbo-A. I am reluctant to
"recommend" substitution of aviation grade kerosene, because the effects
upon firearm components of the additives required in aviation fuels are
unknown. Some "jet- fuels" are gasoline/kerosene blends and absolutely
should not be used, because of their increased flammability.

An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe or
III) automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that most ATF's
were sperm oil based, but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use
in precision instruments. With the great demand for automatic
transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to
produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became
the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today. The additives in ATFs
which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it
highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose
cleaner-lubricant-preservative.

Hatcher's original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula used gum spirits of
turpentine. Because turpentine is expensive today, and is also an
"aromatic" solvent, which is highly flammable, I chose not to use it.
Safer and cheaper is "aliphatic mineral spirits," a petroleum based
"safety solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and also widely used
as an automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names
"odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".

Acetone is included in "ER" to provide an aggressive, fast-acting
solvent for caked powder residues. Because acetone is an aromatic,
organic solvent, it is recommended that users leave it out if the
cleaner will be used in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation.
The acetone in ER will evaporate, liberating volatile organic compounds
(VOCs) into the atmosphere unless containers are kept tightly closed
when not in use. The cleaner is still effective without the acetone, but
it is not as "fast-acting."

There isn't anything in Ed's Red which chemically dissolves copper
fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job removing on carbon and
primer residue than anything else which is safe and commonly available.
Numerous users have told me, that exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper
deposits, because it removes the old impacted powder fouling which is
left by other cleaners, which reduces the abrasion and adhesion of
jacket metal to the bore surface, leaving a cleaner surface condition
which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience seems to indicate that "ER"
will actually remove metal fouling it if you let it "soak," so the
surfactants will do the job, though you have to be patient.

Addition of the lanolin to ER bore cleaner mix is entirely optional. The
cleaner works quite well and gives adequate corrosion protection and
lubrication for most users without it. Incorporating the lanolin makes
the cleaner easier on the hands, and increases lubricity and film
strength, and improves corrosion protection if weapons will be routinely
exposed to salt air, water spray, industrial or urban corrosive
atmospheres, or if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for
long term storage of over 1 year.

If you use other protective films for adverse use or long term storage
you can leave the lanolin out and save about $8 per gallon. At current
retail prices you can buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without the
lanolin for about $10 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself. I am
confident it will work as well for you as it does for me and hundreds of
users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.


CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use
HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate.
The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to
collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
stirring until it is all dissolved.

I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining
mix.


LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician
immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with
water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist.
It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner
inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated repeated and
prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and
nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced
air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or
equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.


INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is
most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch
from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale
on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch
should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the
breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes
and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting
approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its
action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded
revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be
used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth,
target-grade barrels in routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out
loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag
without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing,
leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average
conditions.

5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the
firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I
recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will
readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun.
While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it
contains is harmful to most wood finishes).

7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry
the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag.
First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if
the bore is cleaned as described.

8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used
exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after
use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not
wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder
fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy
fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush
with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual
moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART
whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all
the corrosive residue out.

This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely
distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current
revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that
proper attribution is given to the author.

In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed

Originally Posted by s1mp13m4n

Hello everyone. I am hoping to get my first handgun this month and also my wife's first handgun. We are going to need a gun lube for the guns. I have a few birthdays coming up as well for family who have guns. I am wondering about this "bug Juice" lube I saw online. How well does it work overall? I am thinking that making a batch of it would make a good gift for family and also meet our gun oil needs when we get our first guns. I am considering this because of the value for the money that you get from it.. It seems that various gun oils are costing about $2.50/oz, are they really worth that, What do you think?

2-Quarts Synthetic Motor Oil.
1-Quart Automatic Transmission Fluid.
1-Bottle of original STP. The blue bottle.
1-7 oz. jar of Hoppe's Solvent.

Originally Posted by Wee Hooker

Despite the average gun owners need to over think everything, guns just aren't hard on lubricants. Yes, this should work fine but so would most of those individual components on their own. Under 99% of most average conditions, all you need is a few drops of any basic lubricant that stays in place. That said, your talking about spending $50+ to make near a gallon of lube to service just a couple of guns. You need to know that you're going to be leaving the bulk of that lube to your grandkids 64 years from now. IMHO, You'd be just as well served to spend $10 an a commercial product in a more convenient size.

Originally Posted by s1mp13m4n

I also read about Ed's Bord Cleaner. I can see why it works, but wow that stuff would melt your table your cleaning the gun on....mine anyway as it is a plastic folding table. I was watching an AGI gun smith video and the instructor cleaned the guns with Simple Green. I wonder how that works? I do live in an apartment and would be doing this inside.

Originally Posted by Warren Sear

Regular old automatic transmission fluid is nearly perfect, except for the red dye. It truly would be perfect if it could be purchased without the dye.